Mabuchi540

and hopefully one of them isn't a stuff up that requires a spare.

Ok it was a pain to start the tweak screws into the brace (a bloody tight fit quite frankly), I had to do a new one because I broke the one in the kit, don't ask .

Anyway I found it tricky to try and keep them straight. Unfortunately despite my best efforts the screws (one more so than the other) are not at 90 degrees as they exit the brace.

The eye tells you this but it's probably only like 1 degree out. How badly will this effect the braces ability (if any) to do it's thing so to speak or should I try another one?

The other question is about the bearing holders for the rear axel. I have all the different sizes available but should I use the size mentioned in the instructions initially when I will be using uncut (but trued) 2 inch tires (not the usual 1.85 I read about), no lathe for the purpose yet?

Thanks in advance.

GrayRaven

Thank you oldpurple. Oh well, I will have to reglue the servo for the thrid time...

Mabuchi, on the other thread it was suggested to thread servo saver (and brace?) lightly with 4-40 tap. First, it makes building much easier, second, this way you will avoid stressing servo saver plastic making it stronger.

I do break a lot of them on my 1/10 pan car. It is open wheeler, though, so quite often I hit something with both front wheels simultaneously. I hope with Rev.4 this should be much less of a problem.

darnold

iTrader: (2)

540- If you are going to start out running 2.2inch tires right out of the package then the easiest way to set you rear ride height is to start out putting the #3 axle cams in and then with everything in the car check your ride height starting around the sides of the chassis (where the batteries are and then moving towards the front). I have been told and now strive for 3.5-4 mm, the very back of the rear pod will always have more ride height so i don't count that as it seems to be the sides and then the front ride height that counts most. If the #3 axle cams are too high then go with the next lowest which of course would be the #2's. While the #3's are center hole so there is no "up or down" position they can go in at everything after that has a "hole up or hole down" position that the cam can be placed in. So if the #3's are too high then you can try #2's "hole up" i do believe in order to lower the car a bit over the #3's. If that isn't enought then go to the #1's "up". Another important thing once you get this set as close as you can will be to monitor your tire wear every run (along with rotating your tires) and to continue adjusting your axle cams to the appropriate level as your tires wear. Cypress knows a lot more than me so i'm sure he will be able to continue fielding your questions from here but i hope this helps.

DLM2005

Cypress'

Thanks for the set up for asphalt - it was the solution!

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

KILLER!!! I'm glad it worked. Looks like I'm gonna have to make a roadtrip from Springfield to Marietta here in the not so distant future!! What days and times do you guys run?

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

540: Dave hit pretty much right on with his post. If you're starting out with 2" rears, I'm pretty sure that the 2's up, are right. Being summertime, I'm a bit outta practice with the old ride height adjuster vs. tire size dance though. One thing I do when running large tires like that is run the 12L aluminum motor plate and composite left bulkhead. The cam holes aren't lowered like the are on the IRS plates that are included in the Rev.4 so you don't have to go to extremes with the ride height adjusters to get the height you're looking for.

Mabuchi540

guys. I'll make up a little chart while I'm at it, listing the different height adjusters in order 2 down/3/2up etc etc. And try and combine that with pinion size as well as the tire wear.

Oh and the tweak plate screw question to please.

Edit: While I think about it does anyone bother with/use ceramic bearings in the Rev4 (or would I be just as well off using the kit ones with a lighter weight oil like
I used to in my TC)? If so who makes/sells a ceramic set?

Mabuchi540

to Bruce with setup information and much patience when getting this car together and putting my mind at ease with regards what appeared to be a problem.

Now onto the tricky/picky question (well it might be ) as I bolt everything to the chassis.

The steering servo is 3/4 mm off center so I assume that to compensate one steering link will need to be that much longer?

However the same side that needs to be longer also has a steering arm that is 1/4 mm toeing out on its front edge.

So the question is would the rod need to be 3/4 longer or would I add the 1/4 mm making it 1 mm to compensate or seeing how as the rear of both arms are the same distance in from the side of the chassis that only the 3/4 mm is needed?

This question brought to you from the "The straighter I can get it the less trim I need to use" department.

Also do not give this man a dial vernier caliper ever again. Well this is RC "tech" after all.

Edit: Unrelated, is it normal for the steering linkage to angle downwards and back from the servo saver to the steering hub (if it would make a difference I can mount the studs facing backwards but then they would be angling forwards and down slightly)?

The servo is a JR Z3550 if that helps.

To have to raise the servo on shims to clear the deck?

To have to shave the corner of the right arm slightly so the sevo doesn't hit it?

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

Ok noob question. With the old school front end how do you adjust camber/castor? Im assuming you use some sort of wedged spacer. If so does it limit the use of really small(dia) front tire?

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Caster is set somewhat by shims-yes!! The Camber is a combination of card stock and whats preset in the block. I used different thickness long strips of paer and card stock, business cards. Anything.

Now the tricky part is you need to keep cross referencing each side to make sure axle heights are VERY, very even. Make sure your chassis has no screw sticking out and you have removed the rear axle when doing this.

Get one side set to the caster and camber you like. I liked for club racinf 2 dege caster and 2 deg camber on my Rev.3/4.

Now go to other side and match it up tothe other side-always setting the chassis flat on your set-up board and measuring from set-up board to end of front axle. The closer the better. I tried to keep them within 0.001" max.

Also-after anumber of races or hard coliisons-the old school arms will bend and you might need to redo your shimming job.

And-yes-the more you shim-up-the bigger tires you will need to run.
Ray

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

Thanks for the info Ray.

Mabuchi540

I just put the motor in to wire everything up and the motor hits (or can hit) the tweak brace when the suspension is moved.

Now I figure this is all depends oh the size of the pinion I might end up using and how close the motor can gets to the brace, so as I will be running 19t perhaps someone can also tell me the max size I might use?

I guess it's a case of how much can the shock move Vs how much movement it actually uses?

Thanks in advance.

Edit: While I think about it, is it normal for the spur gear to be loose "side to side"? This is after I've adjusted the diff nut so it doesn't slip going forward.

Mabuchi540

Just wondering how far forward ppl might have placed their transponders?

I've just got one and I'm wondering if right on the edge is "safe" so to speak or if Rev4 drivers put them elsewhere on the chassis.

Thanks in advance.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Could someone tell me what size bearings are in the Rev4? I plan on converting my Rev3 to a Rev4, but I know I need new bearings front and rear. I need 3 flanged and 1 un-flanged for the rear, I think and 4 unflanged front wheel bearings. Does anyone make a bearing kit that will work. Also what size are the diff balls I need some new ones?

Thanks

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Well I got my conversion. Does anyone have a setup for a med-high traction track, like Trackside. I need a good starting point. Thanks.