373LikesSeattle RC Racers/Hangar 30
11-29-2011, 07:09 PM
#8446
Hi Todd!
I think we've come to similar conclusions. Like Maybell said, 6.15 castor is the way to go. At first I thought it was just my driving style, but I've found the 12R5.2 needs a lot of initial steering going into the corners, so I'm going to try the high castor setting again (I used it on the Wednesday race then switched back for Saturday).
Like you, I run the softest SpeedMerchant linear side springs on my 12R5.2 with the SpeedMerchant tube conversion. I'm still figuring out what tube lube to use. I just ordered all three types from SpeedMerchant directly just a couple days ago. Right now I'm using 5000 CRC lube. I think the soft springs absorb the bumpy track better.
Like Travis said, I think Black/Yellow tires are the way to go. Right now I'm running Black/Orange (for Halloween! Just kidding...), but the Orange tire is very similar to Yellow as I understand at least. I've tried Lilac/Yellow and it was very aggressive, almost tough (but interesting) to drive.
For the future: I'm going to try widening the car (like Travis said), going back to 6.15 castor like before, trying different lube, and perhaps going to 1 degree toe out or .18 front springs. Talk about steering! I'm not sure a gold center spring will work on my particular car, but I've tried it before, might try it again.
Phew! That's quite a list. Hope this helps everyone.
Peace,
Sam
I think we've come to similar conclusions. Like Maybell said, 6.15 castor is the way to go. At first I thought it was just my driving style, but I've found the 12R5.2 needs a lot of initial steering going into the corners, so I'm going to try the high castor setting again (I used it on the Wednesday race then switched back for Saturday).
Like you, I run the softest SpeedMerchant linear side springs on my 12R5.2 with the SpeedMerchant tube conversion. I'm still figuring out what tube lube to use. I just ordered all three types from SpeedMerchant directly just a couple days ago. Right now I'm using 5000 CRC lube. I think the soft springs absorb the bumpy track better.
Like Travis said, I think Black/Yellow tires are the way to go. Right now I'm running Black/Orange (for Halloween! Just kidding...), but the Orange tire is very similar to Yellow as I understand at least. I've tried Lilac/Yellow and it was very aggressive, almost tough (but interesting) to drive.
For the future: I'm going to try widening the car (like Travis said), going back to 6.15 castor like before, trying different lube, and perhaps going to 1 degree toe out or .18 front springs. Talk about steering! I'm not sure a gold center spring will work on my particular car, but I've tried it before, might try it again.
Phew! That's quite a list. Hope this helps everyone.
Peace,
Sam
I've made some recent changes to my 12R5 lately that have been working well. I thought I would share them, as someone else might find it helpful. This applies to both of my cars, an original 12R5 and my newer 12R5.2.
I still can't decide between magenta/magenta and yellow/black. Last weekend was yellow/black. I laid down my fastest qual ever, and took 4th in the A. Greylow/black worked well on Wednesday night.
I've softened the car up all around. I'm running .018 springs up front with approximately 1mm of droop measured at the nose. 30K kingpin damping fluid.
I'm running very soft side springs. Greens on my 12R5, and SpeedMerchant .018 linears on my 12R5.2. The point being: soft. Together with the soft front springs, the overall steering is balanced, and the cars are still very responsive and not at all lazy. But they ride nice. And I find this is not a H30-only thing. It was actually Hebert who turned me on to it at the TZGP. He was running black side springs, which I normally associate with low-grip asphalt, not high-grip carpet.
Still using blue center springs on both cars.
This next is my own thing, but it has been nothing short of revelatory, at least on my two cars. I've added three .015 shims behind the wheels on the front. This adjustment has been huge for me. Some old 1/12th scaler will probably laugh and say it's so basic they never thought to mention it. I'm studying it and working up a theory to explain what's going on, but it's obvious that it affects the arc of the wheels as they swing through their steering range. The effect on the track has been more precise steering and greater stability. Also, I think I'm scrubbing less and carrying more corner speed. Pretty good!
Hope that helps.
I still can't decide between magenta/magenta and yellow/black. Last weekend was yellow/black. I laid down my fastest qual ever, and took 4th in the A. Greylow/black worked well on Wednesday night.
I've softened the car up all around. I'm running .018 springs up front with approximately 1mm of droop measured at the nose. 30K kingpin damping fluid.
I'm running very soft side springs. Greens on my 12R5, and SpeedMerchant .018 linears on my 12R5.2. The point being: soft. Together with the soft front springs, the overall steering is balanced, and the cars are still very responsive and not at all lazy. But they ride nice. And I find this is not a H30-only thing. It was actually Hebert who turned me on to it at the TZGP. He was running black side springs, which I normally associate with low-grip asphalt, not high-grip carpet.
Still using blue center springs on both cars.
This next is my own thing, but it has been nothing short of revelatory, at least on my two cars. I've added three .015 shims behind the wheels on the front. This adjustment has been huge for me. Some old 1/12th scaler will probably laugh and say it's so basic they never thought to mention it. I'm studying it and working up a theory to explain what's going on, but it's obvious that it affects the arc of the wheels as they swing through their steering range. The effect on the track has been more precise steering and greater stability. Also, I think I'm scrubbing less and carrying more corner speed. Pretty good!
Hope that helps.
11-29-2011, 07:21 PM
#8447
Originally Posted by samwise
Like Travis said, I think Black/Yellow tires are the way to go. Right now I'm running Black/Orange (for Halloween! Just kidding...), but the Orange tire is very similar to Yellow as I understand at least. I've tried Lilac/Yellow and it was very aggressive, almost tough (but interesting) to drive.
I ran Lilac fronts the other night and it was more aggressive but I liked it, started to push a little more than blacks do at about 6:45 into the run.
11-29-2011, 07:34 PM
#8448
Just FYI. This is verbatim from the Thunder Power TP820CD instruction manual (the emphasis is not my own):
STORAGE MODE
The TP820CD features an advanced Storage Mode that automatically discharges and/or charges the
battery for safe and healthy storage. For added reference you should NEVER store LiPo batteries
at full charge for more than few hours at most (and they should be stored at temps of 40-75° F
whenever possible to prevent swelling and/or loss of performance/capacity). Instead you
should use the Storage Mode to automatically charge or discharge them to approximately 50%
capacity (~3.85V per cell), especially if the battery is more than 50% charged and will not be
used in the next few hours.
STORAGE MODE
The TP820CD features an advanced Storage Mode that automatically discharges and/or charges the
battery for safe and healthy storage. For added reference you should NEVER store LiPo batteries
at full charge for more than few hours at most (and they should be stored at temps of 40-75° F
whenever possible to prevent swelling and/or loss of performance/capacity). Instead you
should use the Storage Mode to automatically charge or discharge them to approximately 50%
capacity (~3.85V per cell), especially if the battery is more than 50% charged and will not be
used in the next few hours.
I'm terrible at discharging
11-29-2011, 07:47 PM
#8449
11-29-2011, 08:03 PM
#8450
Man, watching the 12th scale races from last Wednsday, as well as reading about all the different cars and all the fun everyone is having, made me really regret selling mine. I might just have to pick one up for next season.
11-29-2011, 08:31 PM
#8451
Figured I'd ask here, anybody have a wgt car they don't use? Don't really have cash to spend, but I have a boatload of stuff I could trade, not much newer rc stuff but I have tons of random stuff
Last edited by flameoutgarrett; 11-29-2011 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Wes needed kook-aid, serious
11-29-2011, 09:05 PM
#8453
I think Frank's Hobby Wing was in close proximity of a cf cross brace or something. He said when I tapped a board, the cf part came in contact. Whether it was shocked, jolted, zapped or what ever.... cure was to shut it off and on. The fact that he knew to do that ahead of time is suspect. But the speedo only carries a $99 price tag. He put it in the show at IIC, so it must work a little bit most of the time.
I am still sticking with my "tragic genius" Tekins. I lately rewired my rx packs with a switch and stuffed it straight into my rx. Leave the esc switch "off" and inaccessible, you don't need a marshal trying to turn it on as it will then activate the 1S cut off. My KO servos will put up with 8.4v, but my JR's wont. I hear Futaba will run just fine with 8.4.
Orange is a yellow with a side wall of gray. Same thing as CRC's graylow. The gray ring does make the tire a little tougher, but not much. I actually find that coming from yellows to a graylow "locks" the rear end in just a little more at corner entry, not free it up. It's a great tire in spec when you need to tighten the rear end up just a little bit when yellow are breaking loose.
Garrett: lend you a motor, now the car! I don't know man.
I should let you take it for a pack though. But only if you spin Pete.
I am still sticking with my "tragic genius" Tekins. I lately rewired my rx packs with a switch and stuffed it straight into my rx. Leave the esc switch "off" and inaccessible, you don't need a marshal trying to turn it on as it will then activate the 1S cut off. My KO servos will put up with 8.4v, but my JR's wont. I hear Futaba will run just fine with 8.4.
Orange is a yellow with a side wall of gray. Same thing as CRC's graylow. The gray ring does make the tire a little tougher, but not much. I actually find that coming from yellows to a graylow "locks" the rear end in just a little more at corner entry, not free it up. It's a great tire in spec when you need to tighten the rear end up just a little bit when yellow are breaking loose.
Garrett: lend you a motor, now the car! I don't know man.
I should let you take it for a pack though. But only if you spin Pete.
11-30-2011, 08:01 AM
#8457
New Class for the Hangar!
Ok, just kidding, but check this out:
The Traxxas X0-1, the world's fastest RTR. 100+ MPH out of the box!
0 to 100 in 5 seconds, all for a cool $1100 at Stormer Hobbies
So, who's getting one first?
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/traxxas...ar/#more-49494
http://traxxas.com/products/models/electric/6407xo1
Peace + Expensive Toys,
Samwise
The Traxxas X0-1, the world's fastest RTR. 100+ MPH out of the box!
0 to 100 in 5 seconds, all for a cool $1100 at Stormer Hobbies
So, who's getting one first?
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/traxxas...ar/#more-49494
http://traxxas.com/products/models/electric/6407xo1
Peace + Expensive Toys,
Samwise
11-30-2011, 08:21 AM
#8458
Ok, just kidding, but check this out:
The Traxxas X0-1, the world's fastest RTR. 100+ MPH out of the box!
0 to 100 in 5 seconds, all for a cool $1100 at Stormer Hobbies
So, who's getting one first?
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/traxxas...ar/#more-49494
http://traxxas.com/products/models/electric/6407xo1
Peace + Expensive Toys,
Samwise
The Traxxas X0-1, the world's fastest RTR. 100+ MPH out of the box!
0 to 100 in 5 seconds, all for a cool $1100 at Stormer Hobbies
So, who's getting one first?
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/traxxas...ar/#more-49494
http://traxxas.com/products/models/electric/6407xo1
Peace + Expensive Toys,
Samwise
High speed runs anyone..
Last edited by Logi Maker; 11-30-2011 at 10:00 AM.
11-30-2011, 08:35 AM
#8459
10r5
Love the 12th scale tips. Taking copious notes. Anyone have a starting 10r5 setup suggestion? Tire diameter and rollout too. 
Grant
Grant
11-30-2011, 08:43 AM
#8460
I am dumb but is rollout as critical in boosted class?
Also Travis had mentioned ride height stuff and it got me thinking how dumb I am again.. I know I can add/minus shims in the front to fine tune front ride height, but in the back I am not seeing how to fine tune ride height except mess with tire diameter.. do you shim under rear bulkhead/motor mount?
I am loving this pancar info as well.. going to try and combine notes and make up some Cliff cotes..
