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06-07-2011, 12:01 AM

#6016

piper48

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Riketsu

Camber values should be between 3 to 4 in the rear... and usually 1.5 in the front. This will all depend on the layout of your track, and your suspension settings.

The softer the suspension, the less camber you'll need. The front camber I usually use it to achieve more or less steering quickly (before a qual or main). So that's why I start out at 1.5 so I have room to adjust.

The rear camber should be adjusted until the tire starts to wear slightly conical to the inside.

Thanks fellas for the info.

06-07-2011, 09:33 PM

#6017

Blue Screw

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hey guys if we wanted to make our cars with bling what orange parts can we use from the t3...

06-14-2011, 06:20 PM

#6018

rc carnage

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Side belts

Hi all
Is anyone having trouble with breaking the teeth off the side belts and if so what did you do to fix it

Thanks jt

06-14-2011, 07:08 PM

#6019

D-nicest

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rc carnage

Hi all
Is anyone having trouble with breaking the teeth off the side belts and if so what did you do to fix it

Thanks jt

Which version belt are you using? and do you clean your side pulleys often?

06-15-2011, 01:36 AM

#6020

rc carnage

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Quote:

Originally Posted by D-nicest

Which version belt are you using? and do you clean your side pulleys often?

I am using the V2 belts and i do clean the pulleys often as well

06-15-2011, 03:34 AM

#6021

NikoRacing

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rc carnage

Hi all
Is anyone having trouble with breaking the teeth off the side belts and if so what did you do to fix it

Thanks jt

maybe your side belt is too loose... and so when you brake the teeth "jump" and after some minutes of work in this way they break

06-15-2011, 04:03 AM

#6022

chookgb

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rc carnage

Hi all
Is anyone having trouble with breaking the teeth off the side belts and if so what did you do to fix it

Thanks jt

Team Titan do a very good quality belt for the NT1, i have used it with great success and the belt lasts far longer then the xray one

06-15-2011, 04:00 PM

#6023

asw7576

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Fisher

The Orion Life 1300 pack will fit... just barely, but it does fit.

I use this one : IP 1450 Li-Fe .......... but I have to flatened the base of battery holder, otherwise the battery wont fit.

I use dremel and some kind of wood hand crafting tool tip to flatened the base of battery holder. Flatened only the edge / the curve.

06-17-2011, 03:02 PM

#6024

RC MARKET

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ARENA DLS back in stock !

06-18-2011, 10:11 PM

#6025

andy733

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hi guys,just would like to know if anyone has bought the NT1 worlds edition and then bought the 2011 chassis plate as well. the other question is how good is the nt1 2011 compared to the wc edition (i run a 733 at the moment and looking for a change in the future)

06-19-2011, 06:51 AM

#6026

Riketsu

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Quote:

Originally Posted by andy733

The NT1 WC has the best value, since you won't need to buy any more upgrades (except the 2011 chassis).

I'd recommend getting the WC and just getting the 2011 chassis when the current one wears out...

Trust me, you won't regret going with Xray.

06-28-2011, 09:01 PM

#6027

arix

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WTB 2010+ NT1 Roller Pm me if you have one for sale in great shape.

07-08-2011, 04:46 AM

#6028

zamrioo2

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i never run gas tc and to plan to get NT1 2011... all my buddies running NT1, so that i can change setup and parts are interchangeble... but i need to know what maybe u guys know... is there any news of NT1 2012 or XRAY will release totally new kit...? do u guys think i must wait for this August rather than get new 2011 version...?

thanc for reply...

07-08-2011, 09:29 AM

#6029

NikoRacing

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I think Hudy will stay with the NT1 up to the end of 2012 since the next year there will be the World Championship and... it's just a stupid thing to launch a new car shortly before a so big event, when you have a great chassis yet ready...

So... I think you can buy the 2011 spec with no doubt