wallyedmonds

running 1 hour mains with that sucks,you have to be careful

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Thanks!

Ryan41

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, my NT1 arrived the other day, and I have started the build up. One question, what diff oils are you finding best for front and rear? I put 60k in the front, and 80 in the rear, but im not sure how it will work on the track..any ideas?

cheers

asw7576

Assuming you are using stock cars and stock setup, going 60K front diff and 80K rear is possible. I'm using that setup too..... 60K front, 80K rear, because I need more steering. My home track got two fast sweeper, and couple of quick S turns. When the track is slippery, I go 60K all around.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I Normaly sould do 80,000 front, and 60,000 rear. if the track was loose or slippery, work your way down in the rear to 40,000 or more. I've not ran the front with thinner oil than the rear before, so I do not know how it would work, but I think it would push a lot on throttle and would oversteer or even traction roll off throttle.

brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to figure out how many people are still running dogbones and how many switched over to cvd's in the front, can each of you post what you have seen? Or more importantly what you have seen on team drivers cars?

GK

Most run front CVDs and dog bones in the rear...

asw7576

I am...... I'm using stock dog bones ( with +.75mm wheel hex ).

Be careful with front dog bones getting loose in minor crashes with 0mm wheel hex. I recommend to use +.75mm aluminium wheel hex and keep track width 198mm front and 200mm rear.

Or simply use front CVD like GK said.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

Running front CVD's. Dogbones in the rear.

jelayne

iTrader: (4)

I am still running dog bones all around, but I have CVD as spares

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

most all the drivers I have seen have CVD's in the front and only a few have them in the rear.

asw7576

With two high end digital servos, transponder and 45min final, those AAA baterries are not going to cut it

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

I get just over 80min with A high torq throttle servo, KO 2143 steering servo, PT, and Futaba Fasst system. The AAA setup easily makes 60min mains, Dario just won the Euros with an 800mAh AAA pack.

BTW I would advise against using a digital throttle servo, the brakes are hard on the fets and will drastically shortten the servo's lifespan.

Mark

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Has anybody done a lap time comparison with different batteries to see if lighter actual translates into faster? How about lower gas tank?

brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad that a lot of you feel this way, the Xray forum seems to think I'm absolutely crazy and that cvd's are only for bling factor and that most everyone runs dogbones. CVD's would have only raised the kit price by $20-$25 at most and that would have still been under the Kyosho car (which has them)

I'm only concerned because I'm using 3.5mm of fuel tubing on the inside of the inner driveshaft adapter, 197mm track width and I still had one pop out on me in a very light brush with a flexible strip of barrier. Most of the team drivers setups are 198-199mm front width, some are 0 and some use the .75mm hexes though but nobody says if they use the dogbones or not.

The replacement parts for the dogbones cost around $17 each, the cvd costs $32, so really if they would have just not included the dogbones we would all be happier but I'm still waiting on an answer from Xray R&D on how to stop them from popping out or if this is just one of those things that they planned on making money on which is fine, they can do that.

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=6045