Brian Miskolczi

iTrader: (162)

What size grommet is that l3asher?

l3asher

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea, it comes from a moogen radio tray.

samcob

Hello. have a 3.0 RTR version ?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

No word on that Samcob.

samcob

Thanks.

Jimbo-t

Looked at the 3.0 today in uk
Chassis looks good improvements look good.
More droop
Team drivers have their cars so hope we can get all water off track and see them running
Jim

Pete Martinez

iTrader: (17)

banana rt

please share ur unboxing video, and how it run !

CaseyP

iTrader: (5)

Stay tuned.............

QuikWgn

iTrader: (1)

I have a Tekno converted 8ight 2.0. So basically if I wanted to upgrade to the new 16mm 3.0 shocks, I'd have to swap f/r diff cases, f/r arms, and f/r shock towers? Would the rest of my 2.0 parts still work like my Lunsford turnbuckles and the LRC plates with inserts etc? I also have the 10deg inclined carrier setup which I believe I read will not work with th3 3.0 arms. is this correct as well?

dynamiteracer

You would not need the rear diff housing and you sure would want to upgrade to the new caster blocks along with the new spindles. I believe the bushings for the front arms and caster blocks are a little different. the LRC plates will be the same and the turnbuckles will work.

QuikWgn

iTrader: (1)

If the new 3.0 kit is going to be available sometime in April, do we know when the individual parts will be up for sale? I'd rather convert over to the 3.0 shocks, spindles, caster blocks, than order a bunch of 2.0 stuff right before the outdoor season starts up here in the rainy NW.

dynamiteracer

i was told that they will be out as soon as the car is released.

CaseyP

iTrader: (5)

Hello TLR fans. I will be posting my pro build up of the 3.0 and will be focusing on the tips that I have come up with over the years as well as keying in on the cool hop up parts that come standard with the TLR 3.0

Some of the more self explanitory build stuff will be breezed over but this should help you guys with a bullet proof 3.0 nitro buggy build up.

Hope you enjoy

I will start with a clean work surface and some of my favorite hand tools

1. 3/32 ball end
2. 5/64 allen driver
3. 1/16 allen driver
4. .050 allen driver
5. 3/32 and 5/64 speed tip for drill
6. Small battery drill
7. 1/4" nut driver
8. 3/16" nut driver (not shown)
9. Exacto knife (not shown)
10. TLR camber wrench
11. Black Sharpie
12. Red and Blue loctite
13. Blue rags
14. Some kind of nitro spray / motor spray
15. Digital callipers
16. Smooth jaw needle nose (not pictured)
17. And finnaly some sharp scissors. I prefer to cut kit bags open instead of ripping and pulling. This way no small parts get lost or missed

CaseyP

iTrader: (5)

First up is the steering link build up. Notice the shiney side of the rod end on the top one. (The lower one is displaying the matte finish and is the wrong side to pop from) This is the side you will want to pop the ball into. it will yeild the best / smoothest swivel action.



I use a a flat tooth set of needle nose to pop all of the ball in to the rod ends. This flat jaw style will not marr the aluminum or steel ball. Do this to both rod ends



Now with your 5/64 allen screw the threaded link into the rod end until it just starts to bottom out.



For the other side I will start the end in by hand and then insert the 5/64 allen into the ball to thread the rod on the rest of the way. (extreme force on the end with your fingers will eventually wear you out so I like to do things the easiet way )