Tamiya TT02 Thread
|
|||
#3076
Tech Adept
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is the same chassis now.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rctech.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/pxl_20220128_145003339_474f85a719f61f08850980f743e2f44a6f9fa1e5.jpg)
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rctech.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/pxl_20220128_145003339_474f85a719f61f08850980f743e2f44a6f9fa1e5.jpg)
#3077
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok... IMHO, for a runner, this is actually too much blue. It's unnecessarily heavy (yes, aluminium, while light for a metal, is usually quite a bit heavier than plastics or carbon fiber) plus aluminium bends, while plastic usually either keeps its shape or breaks (easy to see). But a slightly bent metal part can escape visual inspection yet still severely affect handling. So, just as a well-meant advice: never use aluminium A-arms, that's a part where plastic is actually superior, also, CF would be better than aluminium for both bumper brace and damper bridges (lower weight high up, and still good-looking).
#3078
Tech Adept
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok... IMHO, for a runner, this is actually too much blue. It's unnecessarily heavy (yes, aluminium, while light for a metal, is usually quite a bit heavier than plastics or carbon fiber) plus aluminium bends, while plastic usually either keeps its shape or breaks (easy to see). But a slightly bent metal part can escape visual inspection yet still severely affect handling. So, just as a well-meant advice: never use aluminium A-arms, that's a part where plastic is actually superior, also, CF would be better than aluminium for both bumper brace and damper bridges (lower weight high up, and still good-looking).
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
See above post. Honestly the only thing that hasn't bent is the lower a-arms. They are relatively robust. And the reason it veers off in the one vid is because the rear of the body "parachuted" lol.
It's not as heavy anymore, and I'm working on a diffuser to streamline the sides and back. You can see the front one I 3d printed.
This thing is so stupid fast its insane. I had it over 60mph on 3s, and now I've changed the gearing to ( I don't quite remember) the smallest possible 48p spur gear you can fit on the high speed gear set, and I think a 47t pinion. It hits about 60mph on 2s at 3/4 throttle now.
#3079
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're neither the first nor the last person who did that, be assured.
It's what someone at our track once christened "bashers' disease"
(i.e. putting every available hop up into a car, regardless of its usefulness, or even contrary to it). What you could still do (improved looks, a few grams of weight reduction, with only very minor consequences in durability), if you still want to drop a couple of bucks into that car, is a Hiro-Seiko (or other manufacturer) aluminium/titanium hex screw set for the car. All that blue and still the ugly Tamiya standard screws looks like s job half-done.![Smiling](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/kawaii.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Smiling](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/kawaii.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#3080
Tech Adept
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're neither the first nor the last person who did that, be assured.
It's what someone at our track once christened "bashers' disease"
(i.e. putting every available hop up into a car, regardless of its usefulness, or even contrary to it). What you could still do (improved looks, a few grams of weight reduction, with only very minor consequences in durability), if you still want to drop a couple of bucks into that car, is a Hiro-Seiko (or other manufacturer) aluminium/titanium hex screw set for the car. All that blue and still the ugly Tamiya standard screws looks like s job half-done.![Smiling](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/kawaii.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Smiling](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/kawaii.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#3081
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
#3082
Tech Adept
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is actually something I ended up putting into all my cars (except my SCX - so far). My Off-Roaders get the full titanium screw sets and On-Roaders get aluminium/titanium sets (with the aluminium screws in the correct color (light blue for my Tamiyas and orange for my Xrays). Love the looks, and it reduces weight by quite a few grams, if you replace all screws (whether it's really worth the cost just for weight reduction...? Probably not. But that plus looks... for me it's totally worth it, even when made (good natured) fun of by my fellow club racers sometimes
.)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
#3083
#3084
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This hobby can be addictive at times, there is no doubt. My TT-02 White Special started box stock but like most people I was unable to resist the allure of the blue bits. I went for the Yeah Racing parts as they are less expensive than Tamiya but work just as well. Mine has the steel front & rear joint cups, steel CVD's, alloy ball bearing steering, alloy main shaft joints, alloy front and rear upper adjustable arm sets, adjustable motor mount, solid axle diff insert, front upper bumper plate, a set of threaded blue shocks, and a set of 3 degree rear hub carriers. I did use the blue Tamiya center shaft and the Tamiya High Speed Gear adapter, plus a set of VBC Racing clamping wheel hexes. I also had a spur gear cover 3D printed so that I can use larger pinion gears needed when running brushless motors. I topped it off with a McCallister Mustang GT body and have a set of Gravity RC USGT tires mounted.
With all local R/C racing cancelled due to the pandemic, she sits on a shelf waiting for better days ahead. Seems silly I admit but I am weak.
With all local R/C racing cancelled due to the pandemic, she sits on a shelf waiting for better days ahead. Seems silly I admit but I am weak.
I had enough spares to make a basic TT02 for display purposes. It has now evolved into a house guest TT02 for my sons best friend. Pretty soon it will have some blue crack
#3085
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's a beauty, Dirk!!
#3086
Tech Adept
#3087
Tech Adept
#3089
Tech Adept
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
80% silicone bearing oil mixed with 20% PB Blaster Graphite spray. Soak for 24-48 hours and agitate the mixture every few hours, or when you remember.
Now you've got sealed bearings that clean themselves. So smoooooth.
When I was younger I used to use the Graphite lubes on my BMX bike bearings. I felt like it made me faster
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
It definitely made the bike coast a longer distance.
#3090
Tech Addict
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Man, I was buying a TT02 Type S online, and turns out they were sold out but still listed. I got to thinking- the cost of the type S is like 45 bucks off the price of the TA08 Pro, not counting the traditional 150 bucks of Tamiya go fast/look fast blue stuff. I gotta ask, why even buy the TT02? Other than TCS races, I don't see the point. Enlighten me, guys.
We race this class as a box stock +bearings class. All driver, car doesn't help you and you can't tune to win. Shows who can wheel and sharpens skills because it's all on the person who is driving it. That's the magic, crazy tight super fun racing chassis that comes nearly complete out of the box for the price of a TC ESC. We have more fun with this class and better racing for 1/4 the cost.