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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 01-28-2022, 06:51 AM
  #3076  
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This is the same chassis now.

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Old 01-28-2022, 06:54 AM
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Ok... IMHO, for a runner, this is actually too much blue. It's unnecessarily heavy (yes, aluminium, while light for a metal, is usually quite a bit heavier than plastics or carbon fiber) plus aluminium bends, while plastic usually either keeps its shape or breaks (easy to see). But a slightly bent metal part can escape visual inspection yet still severely affect handling. So, just as a well-meant advice: never use aluminium A-arms, that's a part where plastic is actually superior, also, CF would be better than aluminium for both bumper brace and damper bridges (lower weight high up, and still good-looking).
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:03 AM
  #3078  
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Originally Posted by DirkW
Ok... IMHO, for a runner, this is actually too much blue. It's unnecessarily heavy (yes, aluminium, while light for a metal, is usually quite a bit heavier than plastics or carbon fiber) plus aluminium bends, while plastic usually either keeps its shape or breaks (easy to see). But a slightly bent metal part can escape visual inspection yet still severely affect handling. So, just as a well-meant advice: never use aluminium A-arms, that's a part where plastic is actually superior, also, CF would be better than aluminium for both bumper brace and damper bridges (lower weight high up, and still good-looking).
All things I learned after spending wayyy too much on a TT02
See above post. Honestly the only thing that hasn't bent is the lower a-arms. They are relatively robust. And the reason it veers off in the one vid is because the rear of the body "parachuted" lol.
It's not as heavy anymore, and I'm working on a diffuser to streamline the sides and back. You can see the front one I 3d printed.

This thing is so stupid fast its insane. I had it over 60mph on 3s, and now I've changed the gearing to ( I don't quite remember) the smallest possible 48p spur gear you can fit on the high speed gear set, and I think a 47t pinion. It hits about 60mph on 2s at 3/4 throttle now.
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:25 AM
  #3079  
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
All things I learned after spending wayyy too much on a TT02
You're neither the first nor the last person who did that, be assured. It's what someone at our track once christened "bashers' disease" (i.e. putting every available hop up into a car, regardless of its usefulness, or even contrary to it). What you could still do (improved looks, a few grams of weight reduction, with only very minor consequences in durability), if you still want to drop a couple of bucks into that car, is a Hiro-Seiko (or other manufacturer) aluminium/titanium hex screw set for the car. All that blue and still the ugly Tamiya standard screws looks like s job half-done.
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:27 AM
  #3080  
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Originally Posted by DirkW
You're neither the first nor the last person who did that, be assured. It's what someone at our track once christened "bashers' disease" (i.e. putting every available hop up into a car, regardless of its usefulness, or even contrary to it). What you could still do (improved looks, a few grams of weight reduction, with only very minor consequences in durability), if you still want to drop a couple of bucks into that car, is a Hiro-Seiko (or other manufacturer) aluminium/titanium hex screw set for the car. All that blue and still the ugly Tamiya standard screws looks like s job half-done.
You are quite correct there. I've been looking at that titanium set for awhile now lol.
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
You are quite correct there. I've been looking at that titanium set for awhile now lol.
This is actually something I ended up putting into all my cars (except my SCX - so far). My Off-Roaders get the full titanium screw sets and On-Roaders get aluminium/titanium sets (with the aluminium screws in the correct color (light blue for my Tamiyas and orange for my Xrays). Love the looks, and it reduces weight by quite a few grams, if you replace all screws (whether it's really worth the cost just for weight reduction...? Probably not. But that plus looks... for me it's totally worth it, even when made (good natured) fun of by my fellow club racers sometimes .)
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DirkW
This is actually something I ended up putting into all my cars (except my SCX - so far). My Off-Roaders get the full titanium screw sets and On-Roaders get aluminium/titanium sets (with the aluminium screws in the correct color (light blue for my Tamiyas and orange for my Xrays). Love the looks, and it reduces weight by quite a few grams, if you replace all screws (whether it's really worth the cost just for weight reduction...? Probably not. But that plus looks... for me it's totally worth it, even when made (good natured) fun of by my fellow club racers sometimes .)
I'll be honest; I'd be buying for looks haha. Weight reduction is a bonus!
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Old 01-28-2022, 10:01 AM
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Instead of just talking about it, I should maybe just show my TT-02 Type SR :





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Old 01-28-2022, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveM
This hobby can be addictive at times, there is no doubt. My TT-02 White Special started box stock but like most people I was unable to resist the allure of the blue bits. I went for the Yeah Racing parts as they are less expensive than Tamiya but work just as well. Mine has the steel front & rear joint cups, steel CVD's, alloy ball bearing steering, alloy main shaft joints, alloy front and rear upper adjustable arm sets, adjustable motor mount, solid axle diff insert, front upper bumper plate, a set of threaded blue shocks, and a set of 3 degree rear hub carriers. I did use the blue Tamiya center shaft and the Tamiya High Speed Gear adapter, plus a set of VBC Racing clamping wheel hexes. I also had a spur gear cover 3D printed so that I can use larger pinion gears needed when running brushless motors. I topped it off with a McCallister Mustang GT body and have a set of Gravity RC USGT tires mounted.

With all local R/C racing cancelled due to the pandemic, she sits on a shelf waiting for better days ahead. Seems silly I admit but I am weak.
🤣😂🤣😂

I had enough spares to make a basic TT02 for display purposes. It has now evolved into a house guest TT02 for my sons best friend. Pretty soon it will have some blue crack
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Old 01-28-2022, 07:11 PM
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That's a beauty, Dirk!!
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:27 AM
  #3086  
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Originally Posted by DirkW
Instead of just talking about it, I should maybe just show my TT-02 Type SR :



That thing is beautiful!
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:28 AM
  #3087  
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Originally Posted by Raman
🤣😂🤣😂

I had enough spares to make a basic TT02 for display purposes. It has now evolved into a house guest TT02 for my sons best friend. Pretty soon it will have some blue crack
So I guess those nylon bushings lasted long eh? LOL
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Old 01-29-2022, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
So I guess those nylon bushings lasted long eh? LOL
LOL! They’re still on there lol.. but my sons type S is due for a bearing refresh after 6 years.. so I’ll toss those onto the guest TT 🤦🏻
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Old 01-29-2022, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman
LOL! They’re still on there lol.. but my sons type S is due for a bearing refresh after 6 years.. so I’ll toss those onto the guest TT 🤦🏻
Try this.

80% silicone bearing oil mixed with 20% PB Blaster Graphite spray. Soak for 24-48 hours and agitate the mixture every few hours, or when you remember.

Now you've got sealed bearings that clean themselves. So smoooooth.
When I was younger I used to use the Graphite lubes on my BMX bike bearings. I felt like it made me faster
It definitely made the bike coast a longer distance.
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Willy
Man, I was buying a TT02 Type S online, and turns out they were sold out but still listed. I got to thinking- the cost of the type S is like 45 bucks off the price of the TA08 Pro, not counting the traditional 150 bucks of Tamiya go fast/look fast blue stuff. I gotta ask, why even buy the TT02? Other than TCS races, I don't see the point. Enlighten me, guys.
If you want to go full on, get a real TC. If you want to embarrass people with more money than skill, TT 02 is very capable in the right hands, just don't go down the rabbit hole with mods.

We race this class as a box stock +bearings class. All driver, car doesn't help you and you can't tune to win. Shows who can wheel and sharpens skills because it's all on the person who is driving it. That's the magic, crazy tight super fun racing chassis that comes nearly complete out of the box for the price of a TC ESC. We have more fun with this class and better racing for 1/4 the cost.
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