cannon

iTrader: (35)

Think about using the combo that was used at TITC 2011 for FWD

Hobbywing Justock ESC with HW 13.5 motor. Use with 60t spur and 40t pinion. Great combo with enough speed to be fun

This was possibly the largest FWD event run to date with the likes of Reinhard, Groskamp and Surikarn running in the class

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Agreed, that combo works great, the car doesn't really need anymore motor as it can't get the traction down, and I'll save the boost and turbo for my TC ta (other classes I run I like the simplicity of blinky )

Only thing to watch is that the motor tabs can get quite close to the suspension blocks if you use a wider front end. Kit settings it's fine though.

HiH
Ed

dawin2122

please send me a link to buy this combo and thanks for the fast reply

syrss

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone tried the Hobbywing 13T EZRUN 3650M (380 sized) series motor?

Does it have enough torque and power to pull ff03 versus the true 540 sized motors?

I have run the motor twice already, seems to run a little hot with the stock gearing.

Just want to get some general inputs from the experts.

TIA,
Ron

boro92

iTrader: (2)

syrss: I'd put a fan infront of the motor. Little to no air gets to the motor and the head sink otherwise, hence the higher than expected heat.

I'm running 5.5 FDR on a silvercan and it get's piping hot after a 10 min run even with a fan (a crappy novak fan, mind you).

To those who arent as ghetto as me:

I'm running lipo in my car but use an old esc without lipo cutoff. I'm always save and run max 10 mins at a time. But for those who race with silver cans: how much capacity do you top up after a 5min race? Just so I have a better idea of expected run time.

I'm running a 4000mah lipo and my car is far from "geared to the moon".

My charger is also ghetto and doesnt tell me how much I've topped up after a race

R_T_L

iTrader: (23)

I'm running the Cirtix 17.5 combo with good sucess. Temps are at ~140 with 3.85 fdr. Tried a 3.4 fdr and melted the plastics diffs (but a noob mistake) so Im sure the car can handle more but at this FDR, no infield speed at all.
Replaced the diffs with the aluminum and reinforced pieces with great initial testing.
The Cirtix 17.5 combo is the local's race spec so I can't see how the car could handle something faster. I've even seen silver can races...whichever motor/esc, this car is fun.

NiMo

It is known for an undergeared motor to run hotter as it is at peak revs for longer

clittle

Just a question as to what people are doing with their tyres? Are you splitting them or running the same tyres Front and Rear?

I was running the same tyres during our last race and got T-Boned which killed one of my wheels on the rear... I only had some softer tyres available so I threw them on the rear and the car was totally dialed.

Should I be running the same all round? Is running soft tyres on the back just masking some other problems in my setup?

boro92

iTrader: (2)

I actually run the same tires front and rear.
If you find that the car is a bit loose, try putting the rear shocks more inwards on the upper mount, or try adding rear camber. Alternatively, if you want to reduce front traction (rather than increase rear grip), you could put thicker shock oil up front (or thinner out back).

You can also try running sway bars front and rear (with a thicker front than rear if you want less rotation). I find that they make the car slide around significantly less and is generally more planted. In a race situation, you probably want the rear end to be a bit loose. With these FF cars, you want to stay on the throttle as much as possible since you lose corner exit accelleration vs 4wd cars.

This car is very sensitive to changes, so only try 1 change at a time!

Sonkind

Deciding between the FF03 pro and Sakura FF, could anyone advise which one is the better option?

I would have thought that the Tamiya was a no brainer but the faster guys in the FF series here in Thailand seem to be split between the 2?

Any advise would be appreciated.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

I have both of these cars and have run them in Thailand. The FF03 you need to add some options (universals etc) and I know Tanit is running a Yeah Racing carbon chassis as well on his.

As for diffs, the FF03 only has a ball diff at this stage although you can add the Spec R gear diff but we found them to be a bit fragile

The Sakura FF comes fully equipped .. ready to run.

It really is a hard choice both cars work well.

I know Tanit and Jilles do well with the Tamiya but I have seen Pornchai go very well with the Sakura and I think Hara ran one recently

And dont forget the conversion kit from Surikarn ... althpugh it makes the FF03 look more like a Sakura FF

I honestly think that either is good ... it just omes down to personal preference



Now that didn't help at all ... did it

Sonkind

LOL thanks that is pretty much what I thought, Hara ran the Sakura at FRC last saturday so that just confused it a bit more, I will probably end up getting both then.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Tanits FF03 with the Yeah chassis is quick and most probably has a bit more flex which may help'rear grip

I found at RC City I didn't get the rear grip right until I tried a different traction compound when it was all too late.

Also the Sakura FF only comes in kit form with a total of 1.5 degrees rear toe. Next tme in thailand I am going to try more rear toe to settle the car down a bit

dawin2122

THATS MINE COMPLETELY

clittle

That is really sweet!!!!