8LikesCRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks
12-02-2010, 08:35 PM
#1726
Tech Apprentice
slsspark
If you go back a few pages and take a look at SWT posts. He is using my Stranahan car at the TQ carpet track here in SoCal. It has been very interesting trying to get the car to work on carpet.
I will try to have SWT post here with the adjustments he made at the last race. It has been an interesting time.
Steve
If you go back a few pages and take a look at SWT posts. He is using my Stranahan car at the TQ carpet track here in SoCal. It has been very interesting trying to get the car to work on carpet.
I will try to have SWT post here with the adjustments he made at the last race. It has been an interesting time.
Steve
John, what brand of motor shims do you use to get the pod to balance out. On my gen x10 I had to shim the motor over 3mm to get it to balance perfectly.
Last edited by slsspark; 12-04-2010 at 03:48 PM. Reason: addl question
12-27-2010, 05:11 PM
#1727
Tech Rookie
What new innovations are coming in 2011 from Stranahan Race Cars?
12-28-2010, 09:25 AM
#1728
Watchman
the 2011 Model will be called Scimitar. I have discussed it previously. Here is a link.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7867739-post1655.html
It is designed from the ground up to be a wide pan car. This includes a wide but stiff rear pod. Oval models will also be available with the new stronger Panhard bar and new upper and lower pod plates.
Now if I can get some graphite cut for the car, I'll have a few for sale soon.
The Prototype is sold and is going to be run in the Dominican Republic. I have one as well (but I don't have the new improved chassis
) and will be running and reporting on it later this month. I am doing some heavy projects at home at the moment.
RE: Motor Spacers
SlSSParks I missed this question. I usually use this Associated Motor Spacer If I need one. Make sure you include half the weight of the motor wires on the left side of the pod when checking your pod balance.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=ASC8110
here is another one by HPI.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWHZ3&P=7
Merry Christmas and Happy New year to all.
john
the 2011 Model will be called Scimitar. I have discussed it previously. Here is a link.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7867739-post1655.html
It is designed from the ground up to be a wide pan car. This includes a wide but stiff rear pod. Oval models will also be available with the new stronger Panhard bar and new upper and lower pod plates.
Now if I can get some graphite cut for the car, I'll have a few for sale soon.
The Prototype is sold and is going to be run in the Dominican Republic. I have one as well (but I don't have the new improved chassis
) and will be running and reporting on it later this month. I am doing some heavy projects at home at the moment.RE: Motor Spacers
SlSSParks I missed this question. I usually use this Associated Motor Spacer If I need one. Make sure you include half the weight of the motor wires on the left side of the pod when checking your pod balance.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=ASC8110
here is another one by HPI.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWHZ3&P=7
Merry Christmas and Happy New year to all.
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-28-2010 at 09:35 AM.
01-23-2011, 12:37 PM
#1729
Tech Rookie
Scimitar test
Hi John, yesterday was the first time that Carlos Di Vanna did a proper test of the Scimitar 1/10. I helped him a little bit to get the car hooked. Our track is very very bumpy, but the car look extremely steady and fast, specially in a long parabolic curve full with holes and bumps. I won our first race of the year one week ago when Carlos had to race his Hpi; he didnt have the time to get the Scimitar ready because he was vacationing in Spain during Christmas. I got two more laps at the end than the second place but looking now at your chassis I am a bit worried about Carlos possibilities for the next race.
José Álvarez.
José Álvarez.
01-24-2011, 11:30 AM
#1730
Josedo
thanks for the report. bumpy tracks are the Scimitars cars Strength. Good luck to Carlos and yourself.
A JS pro10 may make an appearance in Hamamatsu Japan soon. Hopefully we will get a report.
Here are some plans for the future. I plan to run the 1/12 scale Scimitar on the big outdoor track again. This is going to be with one cell, but I plan to run more powerful motors. It showed some potential earlier by cornering really hard and well. I will have to upgrade the Havoc speed control. LRP, I believe is making a 1 cell capable speed control that will run without a voltage booster or servo pack.
John
thanks for the report. bumpy tracks are the Scimitars cars Strength. Good luck to Carlos and yourself.
A JS pro10 may make an appearance in Hamamatsu Japan soon. Hopefully we will get a report.
Here are some plans for the future. I plan to run the 1/12 scale Scimitar on the big outdoor track again. This is going to be with one cell, but I plan to run more powerful motors. It showed some potential earlier by cornering really hard and well. I will have to upgrade the Havoc speed control. LRP, I believe is making a 1 cell capable speed control that will run without a voltage booster or servo pack.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-27-2011 at 10:05 AM.
02-14-2011, 04:10 PM
#1731
by e-mail
Countersinking 82 degree holes with the Dremmel
The most common reason is to fit a new servo which requires a new hole through the frame.
Instead on the Dremmel I use a shaped stone. Take a round stone of sufficient diameter. Cut a pattern in cardboard or paper at 82 degrees. Use the Dremmel shaping stone and dress the point of the stone to 82 degrees. It works well at the track by hand. It is not too aggressive so it does not cut too deep too quickly.
I have a new supplier on the Scimitar graphite. Expect some motion in about a month.
john
Countersinking 82 degree holes with the Dremmel
The most common reason is to fit a new servo which requires a new hole through the frame.
Instead on the Dremmel I use a shaped stone. Take a round stone of sufficient diameter. Cut a pattern in cardboard or paper at 82 degrees. Use the Dremmel shaping stone and dress the point of the stone to 82 degrees. It works well at the track by hand. It is not too aggressive so it does not cut too deep too quickly.
I have a new supplier on the Scimitar graphite. Expect some motion in about a month.
john
02-15-2011, 09:40 AM
#1732
Tech Rookie
Hi John, sorry to report that Carlos Di Vanna had a radio glitch problem during qualifying that he did not resolve for the race last Sunday, so the Scimitar 1/10 only did a few slow laps before he took it out from the track. The racing line was very slippery because the 1/8 gts raced before and sprayed the track with a lot of oil from the nitro gas blend. My car survived three horrible crashes, encounters with stopped cars out of control because of the oil and with luck i won again. (We will race next time before the 1/8 gts).
Jose Alvarez.
Jose Alvarez.
02-15-2011, 04:48 PM
#1733
Tech Rookie
Hi John, I'm the guy who acquired the Scimitar Oval car from you last year. Been interested in the comments from the SoCal guys concerning the car on both carpet and asphalt.
Anyway got bored and said "What if?". the result is the proof of concept in the attached pic. Removed all the collars used for the shocks, created a set of AL pieces to mount the cross brace. moved the lower shock attachment points to the rear link points. reattached the track rod. The concept is to use body post like the TC4/XXX-S. Got side tracked with medical issues. In this photo the AL cross brace mounts are at an angle so I will replace them with 90 degree ones. create a new cross brace from 3mm graphite scrap I have and viola!
Not sure what the motor plates came off, got them in an eBay auction. Replaced all the steel screws with either titanium or aluminum ones, turnbuckles are all titanium. front suspension is stock Stranahan.
Anyway got bored and said "What if?". the result is the proof of concept in the attached pic. Removed all the collars used for the shocks, created a set of AL pieces to mount the cross brace. moved the lower shock attachment points to the rear link points. reattached the track rod. The concept is to use body post like the TC4/XXX-S. Got side tracked with medical issues. In this photo the AL cross brace mounts are at an angle so I will replace them with 90 degree ones. create a new cross brace from 3mm graphite scrap I have and viola!
Not sure what the motor plates came off, got them in an eBay auction. Replaced all the steel screws with either titanium or aluminum ones, turnbuckles are all titanium. front suspension is stock Stranahan.
Last edited by Watchman; 02-16-2011 at 04:22 AM.
02-15-2011, 10:40 PM
#1734
Tech Adept
iTrader: (20)
Watchman
My Stranahan car has been in the garage being rebuilt. I have only driven the car a couple of times. SWT has driven the car the most.
My car has only been driven on carpet and the biggest problem has been chassis roll. The car will almost lift the LF off the track. I need to limit suspension travel on carpet. The other problem has been a push but will wait until the roll problem is solved. I have not had a chance to drive it on asphalt.
What I am really waiting for is trying it on the Encino Velodrome but we can not race there until the lease between the bike club and the Army Corp of Engineers gets done. Its a long story.
If you have any more questions you can email me at
[email protected]
Steve
My Stranahan car has been in the garage being rebuilt. I have only driven the car a couple of times. SWT has driven the car the most.
My car has only been driven on carpet and the biggest problem has been chassis roll. The car will almost lift the LF off the track. I need to limit suspension travel on carpet. The other problem has been a push but will wait until the roll problem is solved. I have not had a chance to drive it on asphalt.
What I am really waiting for is trying it on the Encino Velodrome but we can not race there until the lease between the bike club and the Army Corp of Engineers gets done. Its a long story.
If you have any more questions you can email me at
[email protected]
Steve
04-08-2011, 09:54 AM
#1735
Tech Rookie
What's the latest?
04-08-2011, 02:26 PM
#1736
In the meantime, I diverge into some full size car stuff once in a while. I have a new 3-link rear suspension car in my stable, a 2012 Mustang. The third attached photo is a close approximation to the 2012 rear suspension as far as I can tell at the moment. You will note two lower control arms which trail the car and attach to the lower part of the axle. Also note a single rather short upper link that trails the car and is attached at the top of the differential. Three trailing links. At the back of the axle is the Panhard bar which controls side to side motion of the axle and behind that a bit on the car is the Anti roll bar. All these parts except the antiroll bar are duplicated on the Scimitar pan car in long Red Links. Photo 4 shows the 3 link on the Scimitar Oval Car. Similar on the Scimitar Wide Pan.
I have also owned a four link 1985 Mustang which has a four link rear end. the upper two links are slanted in toward the front to eliminate a Panahrd bar. So what is good about the 3-link and what is better than the four link. I'll note the launch first. From a stop or slow roll the 2012 3-link is absolutely planted. Even with 414 HP on tap. Examples run in the low 13. seconds on the 1/4 mile dragstrip. Your tendency to boil the tires is not there. The Pirreli P-0 "nittos" help. You can feel the whole car lift on launch, the front end seems to move 6-8" up. Not all of this is from the 3-link but certainly it adds to it as this was not so pronounced in the 1985 car. Shocks are more compliant on the new car which also helps. This lift transfers an opposite and equal load to the ground which plants the rear tires. Front to rear weight transfer is enhanced as the car lifts. My 3-link Pan cars as a result are 3-4 mph faster on a long straight.
I noticed in prototyping a four link and a 3-link Pan Car on the Pantoura thread that the four link has significantly more roll stiffness of its own. This will tend to let the rear end slide out in a corner. The 3-link mustang keeps the rear end planted on corner exit in spite of some serious power being added by the driver. The Scimitar Pan car will do as well. A little roll steer out is added to the Scimitar by the incliined side links to allow the rear end to drift out properly. The new photos are below these 5 of the Scimitar Wide Pan from a previous post.
I have also owned a four link 1985 Mustang which has a four link rear end. the upper two links are slanted in toward the front to eliminate a Panahrd bar. So what is good about the 3-link and what is better than the four link. I'll note the launch first. From a stop or slow roll the 2012 3-link is absolutely planted. Even with 414 HP on tap. Examples run in the low 13. seconds on the 1/4 mile dragstrip. Your tendency to boil the tires is not there. The Pirreli P-0 "nittos" help. You can feel the whole car lift on launch, the front end seems to move 6-8" up. Not all of this is from the 3-link but certainly it adds to it as this was not so pronounced in the 1985 car. Shocks are more compliant on the new car which also helps. This lift transfers an opposite and equal load to the ground which plants the rear tires. Front to rear weight transfer is enhanced as the car lifts. My 3-link Pan cars as a result are 3-4 mph faster on a long straight.
I noticed in prototyping a four link and a 3-link Pan Car on the Pantoura thread that the four link has significantly more roll stiffness of its own. This will tend to let the rear end slide out in a corner. The 3-link mustang keeps the rear end planted on corner exit in spite of some serious power being added by the driver. The Scimitar Pan car will do as well. A little roll steer out is added to the Scimitar by the incliined side links to allow the rear end to drift out properly. The new photos are below these 5 of the Scimitar Wide Pan from a previous post.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-18-2011 at 04:00 PM.
04-18-2011, 04:00 PM
#1737
Scimitar
Stranahan-RC will close
Well the long wait is over. I still have no machined Scimitar graphite parts. I have cancelled my order. Stranahan-RC will close in about a month when the Website space expires.
There are still a few JS Pro 10 style cars available from me for a while as well as conversions. I will be able to provide crash parts for the custom parts for several years by e-mail ([email protected])
I plan to buy a little graphite and build my Scimitar Chassis by hand. The CAD's may become share ware in the future. I really like this car.
I plan to be back at the track this weekend.
John
Stranahan-RC will close
Well the long wait is over. I still have no machined Scimitar graphite parts. I have cancelled my order. Stranahan-RC will close in about a month when the Website space expires.
There are still a few JS Pro 10 style cars available from me for a while as well as conversions. I will be able to provide crash parts for the custom parts for several years by e-mail ([email protected])
I plan to buy a little graphite and build my Scimitar Chassis by hand. The CAD's may become share ware in the future. I really like this car.
I plan to be back at the track this weekend.
John
04-20-2011, 02:48 PM
#1740
Thanks Leigh
Homade Dyno Reaches Production
McPappy Brushless Motor and Gear Dyno
The homemade brushless motor dyno described in the following thread has now reached Production. McPappy –The makers of a deluxe oval pan car The Dart 2.5 have taken on this challenge.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/288637-dyno-homemade-using-novak-sentry-data-logger-continued-experimental-thread.html
The McPappy Dyno package includes everything in photo 1, which I just received. You supply a speed controller (the one from your car will work fine) A servo tester to start and stop the test (or your transmitter and receiver), a Novak Sentry for data acquisition, and your test motor.
The most accurate data will be obtained by spinning up the supplied flywheel until near max RPM. The sentry will gather the data, you will copy and paste it onto the supplied (shareware) spreadsheet that was written in the thread above by Matnin and Myself. A power curve will be generated with an accurate Maximum Power calculated.
The dyno has additional flexibility. You can run your 21.5 slave motor which is hooked up to a bank of resistors with the test motor. An approximate power will be calculated which should be very helpful for comparison testing.
Additionally, the test motor can power the slave through a set of gears. We have all guessed at the power loss in a single set of gears (12% or so). Now a precise test will be available. You might be able to see if there is any noticeable difference in friction between the big pinion big spur vs little pinion and little spur of the same ratio.
These latter two test are not included in the software as yet. This is my task at present.
The following pictures 2-5 show McPappy’s Prototype Dyno which may differ slightly with my build.
Follow the slave motor development on the thread above.
John
Homade Dyno Reaches Production
McPappy Brushless Motor and Gear Dyno
The homemade brushless motor dyno described in the following thread has now reached Production. McPappy –The makers of a deluxe oval pan car The Dart 2.5 have taken on this challenge.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/288637-dyno-homemade-using-novak-sentry-data-logger-continued-experimental-thread.html
The McPappy Dyno package includes everything in photo 1, which I just received. You supply a speed controller (the one from your car will work fine) A servo tester to start and stop the test (or your transmitter and receiver), a Novak Sentry for data acquisition, and your test motor.
The most accurate data will be obtained by spinning up the supplied flywheel until near max RPM. The sentry will gather the data, you will copy and paste it onto the supplied (shareware) spreadsheet that was written in the thread above by Matnin and Myself. A power curve will be generated with an accurate Maximum Power calculated.
The dyno has additional flexibility. You can run your 21.5 slave motor which is hooked up to a bank of resistors with the test motor. An approximate power will be calculated which should be very helpful for comparison testing.
Additionally, the test motor can power the slave through a set of gears. We have all guessed at the power loss in a single set of gears (12% or so). Now a precise test will be available. You might be able to see if there is any noticeable difference in friction between the big pinion big spur vs little pinion and little spur of the same ratio.
These latter two test are not included in the software as yet. This is my task at present.
The following pictures 2-5 show McPappy’s Prototype Dyno which may differ slightly with my build.
Follow the slave motor development on the thread above.
John
