13LikesRCLAB 7even Cars.
11-05-2002, 10:30 PM
#766
top:
ok, ok. this is the final pic. somehow i fit an xxtra, cyclone, and cap on the bottom deck w/o hanging over or tipping on the side. thank you futaba for the 9550.
sorry if i seem a little too proud of the car. it's taken me a while to get everything i needed to feel confident to take it to the track. and at first run, i was crazy about it. it's always fun for me to build them as well as run them. by the way the 9550 was awesome. i usually run the fullsize counterpart 9450. with a loss of over 30 oz. in. of torque, i was leary about the new one. after running it, i didn't notice a differnce. seems 80 oz. in. is plenty in a digital servo for onroad cars.
ok, ok. this is the final pic. somehow i fit an xxtra, cyclone, and cap on the bottom deck w/o hanging over or tipping on the side. thank you futaba for the 9550.
sorry if i seem a little too proud of the car. it's taken me a while to get everything i needed to feel confident to take it to the track. and at first run, i was crazy about it. it's always fun for me to build them as well as run them. by the way the 9550 was awesome. i usually run the fullsize counterpart 9450. with a loss of over 30 oz. in. of torque, i was leary about the new one. after running it, i didn't notice a differnce. seems 80 oz. in. is plenty in a digital servo for onroad cars.
11-06-2002, 02:26 PM
#767
Tech Adept
all i can say is WOW that is the cleanext most beautiful lab ive ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(drooling) also because its new but WOOOWW
did you ever consider selling those plates, i sure wouldnt mind having one myself. Does the camber link location affect the handling? better worse. very interesting, about to try myself.
Have fun running it!
holla,
Nate
did you ever consider selling those plates, i sure wouldnt mind having one myself. Does the camber link location affect the handling? better worse. very interesting, about to try myself.
Have fun running it!
holla,
Nate
11-06-2002, 05:23 PM
#768
hey thanks nate. i like looking at it myself. of course, i always liked looking at everyone elses too. that's why i bought one.
those plates:
i'll make them upon demand. if you'd like one, let me know. i would suppose you'd need the aluminum mounts as well. the one's i made require you to countersink a flathead screw into the lower mounting holes of the shock tower for proper clearance. i opted not to even run the lower screws. if i get a few interested, i'll make a batch of the plates and mounts and ship them out to you fellas. all i'd ask is that materials be paid for. what do guys think?
the camber links:
i really can't comment on how they change the performance, as i've never run it the original way. basically the trend in touring cars lately is to have long arms, and even more so, long camber links. i'm guessing its just smoother because the roll center doesn't change as much during compression. using the chassis plate inner location, with the outer ballend all the way out to the kingpin (like chrisman's car), the length of the camber link actually exceeds the length of the arm. i don't think that's such a good thing. i'm not sure though. these changes are very subtle, and to be honest i'm not sure i'm good enough to feel them yet!
let me know what you think when you try it. later, chris.
those plates:
i'll make them upon demand. if you'd like one, let me know. i would suppose you'd need the aluminum mounts as well. the one's i made require you to countersink a flathead screw into the lower mounting holes of the shock tower for proper clearance. i opted not to even run the lower screws. if i get a few interested, i'll make a batch of the plates and mounts and ship them out to you fellas. all i'd ask is that materials be paid for. what do guys think?
the camber links:
i really can't comment on how they change the performance, as i've never run it the original way. basically the trend in touring cars lately is to have long arms, and even more so, long camber links. i'm guessing its just smoother because the roll center doesn't change as much during compression. using the chassis plate inner location, with the outer ballend all the way out to the kingpin (like chrisman's car), the length of the camber link actually exceeds the length of the arm. i don't think that's such a good thing. i'm not sure though. these changes are very subtle, and to be honest i'm not sure i'm good enough to feel them yet!
let me know what you think when you try it. later, chris.
11-07-2002, 12:31 PM
#769
Tech Adept
Wusup all,
On the plates how much would they be?? dont mind on turning around the bulkheads. I will be trying the new camberlink locations soon, gotta get sum cashe from somwehre (only 14) parent wont give cash since they are buing my sis a RSX (excuse the babbling) ummm nothin much else and, oh what is everyone else's ages??????
Holla,
Nate
On the plates how much would they be?? dont mind on turning around the bulkheads. I will be trying the new camberlink locations soon, gotta get sum cashe from somwehre (only 14) parent wont give cash since they are buing my sis a RSX (excuse the babbling) ummm nothin much else and, oh what is everyone else's ages??????
Holla,
Nate
11-08-2002, 03:37 AM
#770
hey chrisman or other rclab gurus,
what's the easiest way to get the brass rings off of the cvd's? can i reuse them? i'm gonna rebuild them right off the bat using a larger diameter middle insert. i may as well while i have the express universals in there.
thanks, chris.
btw - it's been two days and steve hasn't returned my email. i dunno. i talked to him on the phone on monday, but nothing since. he's got to order some of what i want, but i'm afraid he hasn't even started yet. i dunno. could you send me some 2 degree rear aluminum blocks if i paypal you? every time i tear off one of the composite blocks, the cvd just tears up my outdrive. that's got to stop. and i don't ride the walls. an occasional brush. but that's usually all it takes since the bumper covers the major hits.
what's the easiest way to get the brass rings off of the cvd's? can i reuse them? i'm gonna rebuild them right off the bat using a larger diameter middle insert. i may as well while i have the express universals in there.
thanks, chris.
btw - it's been two days and steve hasn't returned my email. i dunno. i talked to him on the phone on monday, but nothing since. he's got to order some of what i want, but i'm afraid he hasn't even started yet. i dunno. could you send me some 2 degree rear aluminum blocks if i paypal you? every time i tear off one of the composite blocks, the cvd just tears up my outdrive. that's got to stop. and i don't ride the walls. an occasional brush. but that's usually all it takes since the bumper covers the major hits.
11-08-2002, 07:42 AM
#771
Hello ...wow.Lots have been happening here since I left .Great work Seaball.Car looks very nice.Nice work on the foam bumper top plate.The Copper ring on the cvd is pressure fitted and it's tough to get it off unless you cut it off with a dremel and use a fuel tubing to replace it.I had done it in the past but up to you.There's rebuidable ones that you may want to reconsider as it's much easier to work with and if you need to rebuilt them,there's parts for them.As for the parts you had requested from Steve,give him a little more time.He's a very busy man..with a lot of orders to handle.PM.me ok if more info needed.
Since there's all these photos posted......I'm going to take some of mine and re post them as it's nice to see it once a while....stay tune.
11-08-2002, 09:45 AM
#772
thanks for the advice chrisman. fuel tubing...like urethane or vinyl? what about shrink tubing? actually all i'd need is the new rebuildable dogbones right? assuming i can use all of the other pieces of the ones i have. i'll have to look again at the usa site. yeah, please post some of those pics. i love seeing people's car's. later.
11-08-2002, 09:58 AM
#773
The rebuildable cvd's are great, you don't need any thread lock and they won't come apart. I have had one pin become a little too worn so it started popping out, infact right now I have a body clip made into a pin, but the holes are showing very little signs of wear, if any.
11-08-2002, 01:34 PM
#774
Hello Seaball,
U r welcome...Fuel tubing..I use the surgical ones.THey are better and more elastic.So it can be stretch ......like the stuff on the sling shots.Other than that...as mentioned by herminator rebuidable ones be a better choice.
Shrink tubes works great too..and u can have different colours too..hee!!hee!!
I'll hae some pics soon..once I clean the car..it's a little dirty from outdoor racin.
Hey Herminator,
Body clips eh!z...hey..what ever works. try finding some piano wires.They are strong and won't wear fast.
U r welcome..
.Fuel tubing..I use the surgical ones.THey are better and more elastic.So it can be stretch ......like the stuff on the sling shots.Other than that...as mentioned by herminator rebuidable ones be a better choice.Shrink tubes works great too..and u can have different colours too..hee!!hee!!
I'll hae some pics soon..once I clean the car..it's a little dirty from outdoor racin.
Hey Herminator,
Body clips eh!z...hey..what ever works.
try finding some piano wires.They are strong and won't wear fast.
11-09-2002, 08:31 PM
#775
Hello all,
I am a proud new owner of a second-hand RC Lab I bought from a friend. He had the car almost all the way hopped up except for the 17/37 internal gearing. Is this a worthwhile option, and if so, where can I get a kit or atleast all of the parts?
I am a proud new owner of a second-hand RC Lab I bought from a friend. He had the car almost all the way hopped up except for the 17/37 internal gearing. Is this a worthwhile option, and if so, where can I get a kit or atleast all of the parts?
11-09-2002, 10:15 PM
#776
sounds good lab driver. personally i like the larger pullies. you can run the belts super loose and gain efficiency there. that's minimal, but what i do like is that the belts for the larger pullies are i think 9 teeth longer for a loop that has only 7 extra teeth. you have to tension front and rears with this. with the standard the front is meant to fit w/o tensioner. the two labs with stock gearing that i've played with were very drag ridden due to an over tight front belt. with the 17/37, you're in control of that. they never made it to the states. i think you have to go through modeltech or one of the rclab sites other than the usa site.
11-11-2002, 04:26 PM
#777
Nice Setup
Hi Guys,
I finally was able to come up with a decent setup for my lab in an ozite carpet in our small track and got rid of the understeer coming out of the corners. This setup provides excellent handling. The fastest lap was made by a previous associated sponsored driver and it was 7.5 seconds and he did this only once, while I was able to come up with a 7.7 five times. Let me know what you guys think. Try it out if you want.
Motor : P2K pro
Batt : Sanyo 3000HV
Body : Protoform Stratus 2.0
Spur/Pinion : 128/40, 128/39
FRONT SHOCK SETUP
Type : Associated Threaded
Oil : Associated 50 w oil
Spring : Assocated Spring Copper
* Graphite Shock Tower *
Upper Shock Position : 3 ( Middle )
Lower Shock Position : B ( Middle )
Camber Link : #3 (Inner hole)
REAR SHOCK SETUP
Type : Associated Threaded
Oil : Associated 50 w oil
Spring : Assocated Spring Red
* Graphite Shock Tower *
Upper Shock Position : 3 ( Middle )
Lower Shock Position : B ( Middle )
Camber Link : #1 (Inner hole)
FRONT SUSPENSION
Camber : -1
Caster : 5
Kick Up : 2
Toe : 0
Ride Height : 5 mm
Droop : 4 mm
REAR SUSPENSION
Camber : -1
Toe in : - 1.5
Ride Height : 5.5 mm
Droop : 6 mm
FRONT TIRE SETUP
Sorex 32; Medium Insert
REAR TIRE SETUP
Sorex 28; Medium Insert
Front one way : YES
Tire Additive : PARAGON
I finally was able to come up with a decent setup for my lab in an ozite carpet in our small track and got rid of the understeer coming out of the corners. This setup provides excellent handling. The fastest lap was made by a previous associated sponsored driver and it was 7.5 seconds and he did this only once, while I was able to come up with a 7.7 five times. Let me know what you guys think. Try it out if you want.
Motor : P2K pro
Batt : Sanyo 3000HV
Body : Protoform Stratus 2.0
Spur/Pinion : 128/40, 128/39
FRONT SHOCK SETUP
Type : Associated Threaded
Oil : Associated 50 w oil
Spring : Assocated Spring Copper
* Graphite Shock Tower *
Upper Shock Position : 3 ( Middle )
Lower Shock Position : B ( Middle )
Camber Link : #3 (Inner hole)
REAR SHOCK SETUP
Type : Associated Threaded
Oil : Associated 50 w oil
Spring : Assocated Spring Red
* Graphite Shock Tower *
Upper Shock Position : 3 ( Middle )
Lower Shock Position : B ( Middle )
Camber Link : #1 (Inner hole)
FRONT SUSPENSION
Camber : -1
Caster : 5
Kick Up : 2
Toe : 0
Ride Height : 5 mm
Droop : 4 mm
REAR SUSPENSION
Camber : -1
Toe in : - 1.5
Ride Height : 5.5 mm
Droop : 6 mm
FRONT TIRE SETUP
Sorex 32; Medium Insert
REAR TIRE SETUP
Sorex 28; Medium Insert
Front one way : YES
Tire Additive : PARAGON
11-11-2002, 06:01 PM
#778
what pistons are you running? #2's? at first, i thought it was close to mine with the 25/22 lb springs, but then i see you were in on the middle holes on the arm effectively softening the susp. i forgot to list that i was out/out on the front, and out/middle(arm) on the rear for locations. this gives almost identical geometry f/r so that i can see if i'm truly stiffer/softer from front to rear at the tire. it appears that your setup is almost the same overall stiffness front to rear given the stiffer springs, but smaller distance to the lower location in the front.
before reading this, i was thinking of going stiffer in the rear to bring mine up to 26/26 because i'm getting a bit of lift off of my front inside wheel. looks like your setup confirms my next move. i'll play with sways too if i have time next weekend. i'll let you know. i'm running sauced foams, so i expect my working setup to be a bit stiffer than yours.
before reading this, i was thinking of going stiffer in the rear to bring mine up to 26/26 because i'm getting a bit of lift off of my front inside wheel. looks like your setup confirms my next move. i'll play with sways too if i have time next weekend. i'll let you know. i'm running sauced foams, so i expect my working setup to be a bit stiffer than yours.
11-11-2002, 10:18 PM
#779
Correction on my setup,
Front droop is 6 mm
Rear droop is 4 mm
seaball - yes I was using piston hole #2. I also forgot to mention that I used the longer camber link up front, taken from the UK RCLAB website. I could not make the out/out lower shock link work, it would either understeer or oversteer, even with spring changes.
This softer setup made it really hook on the track. One of the drivers even asked me if i was running foams and a mod motor.
Front droop is 6 mm
Rear droop is 4 mm
seaball - yes I was using piston hole #2. I also forgot to mention that I used the longer camber link up front, taken from the UK RCLAB website. I could not make the out/out lower shock link work, it would either understeer or oversteer, even with spring changes.
This softer setup made it really hook on the track. One of the drivers even asked me if i was running foams and a mod motor.
11-12-2002, 02:05 PM
#780
dude that's awesome. i'm gonna get mine closer to yours balancewise, but stiffer. ya'know? i'll run a ton of packs on saturday so i'll let you know what happens. by the way... what servo are you using? my transit time is .10. a slow servo seems to smooth out the car...of course.
