AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

The ceramic balls ARE worth it... They do last a lot longer than the regular balls and some ppl think they're smoother too. I can't really tell the difference except that i do notice i don't have to put in new balls on each rebuild.

Brand wise, i just got the HPI ones... so someone should prob answer that one. They served me well.

The hara topdeck has the holes enlarged at the camber-link plate screws. So you screw down to the camber-link plate, not the topdeck.
The steering post screws are longer and use a bevel washer and o-rings instead of a plain button-head screw. That's it.

The camber-link plate holes are the same on the rear. Also enlarged so you screw down to the plate, not the topdeck. Hope that helps.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

would the hara top deck set up work better on sealed ashfault? i just got a pro 4 in a trade to start running at a new onroad track and it has the hara top deck, but not the cone washers and orings installed. would i see more traction by adding the washers and orings?

Mitropoulos Jim

You won't see any difference...
The orings on the top deck are supposed to make the car softer but...
I did not realised any difference when using them...

floodo1

ceramic diff balls last virtually forever. they are so much harder than the steel rings that the rings wear and the balls basically dont. obviously forever is an exageration but still.

also the top deck mod should be done for tweak purposes. the reason to use the cone washers and orings is to isolate the steering posts from the upperdeck, mainly for tweak purposes.

G2B Anthony

I have changed from old ver to the 05ver. upper deck, the difference is higher grip and the chassis no tweak anymore.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

I assume you did that yourself?

Does anyone know where to get some conical washers from?
How long to the screws need to be for the drilled out sections?
Ditto for the steering post screws...

LORD SHADO

hay guys jest got here, i got my pro 4 today from ebay for 172.00.
nice car . ive been reading all your tips . i did the boiling thing with the gears
i can feel the differents in the feel of the gears. hay is their away too look at a certain pages this furom is big. oh ya the car was brand new in the box i cant believe the price i got this at wow.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh... this is what the Uni break does to you.

Too much time on my hands. I got the dremel out and did the top-deck mod on the car. I'll let you guys know if there's any difference on track. Suppose it's hard to give a proper qualitative description but i'll do my best.

Cheers...!!

raptor 700

iTrader: (12)

Where can you get the 05 version? And is there any info I can read on it? thanks

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

'05 and Hara Versions are almost identical

more info on the 05:

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/...005/index.html

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

selling my BMI pro4 with loads of hopups
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=97120

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

rayhuang also sells very high quality, buttery-smooth diff balls in the B/S/T section. They are also competitively priced.
-Josh

iblumberg

Thanks for the link. It looks like HPI sells alu bevel gears in Japan as well as alu upper arm supports. They also sell alu hubs and steering knuckles as well as alu steering linkage arms.

Are any of these parts worth getting? If they can increase performance or durability without compromising things like weight or handling, then I may pick up some of these on my next trip to Japan.

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Ira

Nicadrauspro4

The aluminum bevel gears is a must and worth getting. The Carbon Fiber camber plates are also important and adds performance to your pro4. The aluminum hubs and knuckles are tougher than the stock but I guess it's more like "bling". The performance is just the same with the graphite-plastic c-hubs and knuckle arms.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Instead of the Aluminum bevel input gears... I would get the LW 1 piece input shafts/spur gear mounts. the alu bevel gears runs louder than stock as well and end up breaking something else on the car.

the Alum. camber link support is a good option part to have...even though not as light as the CF plate version..it is a lot easier to make adjustments.. on the CF plate you have a tiny lock nut that is sometime difficult to thread onto the ball studs.

Aluminum C-hubs, knuckles and rear hubs...just more bling bling eye candy.. jsut adds unnessary weight to the suspension system.