AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

I'd agree that the pro4 doesn't have much "give" in the drivetrain.
It's not too much of a stretch of your imagination to see that suddenly locking a wheel in a crash will result in a break or bend somewhere.

The TiR units i'm running have survived extremely well. I had a friend drive my car and he managed to drill it into a wooden board (practice day - so no corner dots) and the car survived unscathed save for a wheel bearing and a few loose screws.

Shaft driven cars in particular aren't as forgiving as a belt. My old schumacher NEVER broke a cvd, and those were the plastic units! (I was however, running a front diff also)

floodo1

again on "dogbones"

tc4 w/ stock axles is very durable.
TiR whole cvd's are also very durable (if not more on the bone), but there are infrequent reports of broken axles. (also TiR has a modified thread for the wheel nut to hold the nut better).

everything else will bend too easily in the front when using spool or one-way.

front diff changes everything, you can run much lighter and softer "dogones". in this case stock aluminum parts are prolly fine.


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this is the std answer for this thread, i need to put it in a txt file and then just copy and paste so id ont have to type it every month

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Also add into your cut and paste..."Let off the throttle before you smack the wall, pole, turn marshal".

The bones won't bend if there is no motor force opposing the bones.


I know... mistakes happen!

kyracer

Its odd that everyone is talking about breaking CVDs but the only thing I have ever broke is the spindles and the front C hubs. Which I guess its because I run on carpet and the car does not slide out of control like on asphalt. Plus I only run stock. Maybe the best thing would be is just dont hit anything.


Thanks dodgeguy for the carpet setup. It is working GREAT! I am in the ballpark of lap time. Now all I have to do is stay away from the pipe and not break spindles.

Blin

I've just run 6 packs with my Pro 4 on supermarket parking... it's an awsome car !

I'ven't run this car since october 2005. The Pro 4 is still a great car. Vey fast and reliable. The grip and the handling were impressive despite the low temperature of the asphalt here in Belgium.

Cheers.

serpentrush

CANT agree more i ran mine today at the club and this thing is dailed perfect only thing i noticed was exessive tire wear im running foams there CANT BE A BETTER CAR THAN A PRO 4

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

I figure, all the top-level cars look the same anyway.
There's only a few ways to get the power from the motor to the wheels.

Besides, i don't think i'm a good enough driver to be faster with any "new" version of a car over the course of a race. Unless i spent an insane amount of time camped out at a track practicing my lines will never be that good.

One thing that i'd love to see though, is helical cut gears on a shaft drive car. maybe we can get them to run as quiet as a belt! Not to mention the jump in efficiency..

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Can anyone tell me how to make the steering knuckles on the Pro4 more bullet proof? I broke 3 today in 4 races. I guess I could get better at driving and not hitting the walls but aside from that is there anything I can do?

Thanks!

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

I have noticed that the Pro 4 front end can just eat parts up! But it does when I am hitting walls. The car seems to run well. Just do not hit walls

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Hey man no problem. It is a great setup. Just a little tweak here and there and it works just about any carpet track.

We have a money race at WOH this Saturday. So I am going to try mod for a change. I have extra parts

Any one has some roll outs for 12 turn thru 7? Prefer inches

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Well it wasnt just walls. I think I ran into you a couple of times! Sorry bout that. Im usually not that bad. I guess the combo of not racing in 3 months and going straight to brushless my first time back got the best of me.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I'm using Jet Alum. knuckles in the front and rear of mine. There is a problem though- the knuckles were too tight around the bearings and caused binding . What you'll need to do is get the Square knuckles ($$$) or remove some anodizing from the inside of the Jets (not easy if you're not handy). Mine work great now for the price You might want to look at some bigger/wider foam bumpers too- modified can be brutal

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Really liking mine too Bought mine used off a friend, refurbed with some hop-ups (2mm chassis) and drove it for the first time last week. Dialed! Qualified 2nd in Pro 19turn- just 2 secs off of TQ

iblumberg

P-dub makes a wider bumper that is quite nice. Note that it is so wide that I had to cut notches in the ends so that some of my shells would clear it.

As to alu knuckles, I would be careful using them. While I have no direct experience with the Pro4, in general, if you get a stronger part in a TC, you just break the next thing in line, like the suspension arm in this case.

Ira

RC_Goat

HI Guys!

Thanks for answering my question on the pivot blocks!

Just one other question regarding them; apparently the car comes with extra blocks, which are these? I just need the info to find out which blocks I have to order separately

After looking at quite a few cars (Cyclone, Shumi EC, T2) I have decided to go for a PRO 4 Hara edition. I race in stock, outdoors only, on medium grip tarmac surfaces and feel that the Hara Pro 4 will be my best choice. (currently run a BMI TC3)

The only thing that bugs me a bit is the age of the PRO 4. I know the Hara edition is only a few months old but I was wondering if you guys happen to know if HPI have plans for a new model any time soon?

The last thing I want is to spend $500 on a new car and parts only to see a new model pop up in 5 months time

Thanks for your help so far!