TadehI

For Carpet low-med grip I use 70wt Associated oil with white springs up front and purple springs rear with stock pistons 2 hole 1.3mm? full height parma plaids front purple rears, 2.5 stock chassis and top deck, no swaybars 2nd to outer hole stock front shock locations, and middle rear bottom hole droop is 6 front 5 rear. Loose rear but one that you can get on very quickly.

Hope This Helps

AMGRacer

My buddy has a cyclone and I have a Pro 4. We use fairly similar setups and use the same tire setup (Sorex 36 + Hara Black + speedmind rims + Paragon). I have noticed that his car makes the tires "squeal" during cornering whereas mine only makes quite a soft squeal. I am a novice to rubber tires and I am wondering whether the sound of the tires indicates anything, both our cars are similar quickness, but I suspect his may be "using" the tires better..............

floodo1

generally squeel is a bad thing, usually comes from the tires slipping.

more than likely your tires will last longer.

TadehI

I Have a problem I have been racing carpet for 3 months now and the diff screw keeps on breaking. I think I have done the associated diff mod but I need a better image or even an accurately labeled diagram with the associated diff screw, thrust washers, thrust balls, spring I'm using associated and anything else. PS it usually breaks at the head or start of the threads.Thanks for anyones help
RC-Zombies or anyone HELP PLEASE?

Thanks

TadehI

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

So then how do we stop it?
-Josh

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Squeel generally means your tires are overheating. A little is ok. A lot means you might try a harder compound or insert- you go too firm though and you wont get any grip. It's a fine line that's why I say a little is 'ok'.

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

Aaaah. When floodo1 said the tires were slipping, I didn't connect that with friction and heat. Thanks for clearing that up. If your tires are overheating, will you see those little "stretch marks"? I know on one of my sets of Sorex 28's they have little squiggly lines in the contact patch. It looks like they've been stretched, and they didn't last nearly as long as I thought they would. I suddenly lost traction towards the end of the race, so I figured they got too hot. That's when I saw those lines. What do they mean?
-Josh

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Yep, sounds like a little chemical reaction is going on from all the heat

AMGRacer-That's a good observation. That might mean either the Cyclone is generating more grip and therefore heating up the tires a lot more OR you just drive much smoother than your pal

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

more squeal..more corner speed..

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

No idea if this is new news or not but here goes.

I ended up breaking some parts on my Pro 4. The C-hub, steering knuckle and front shock shaft. The C-hub was a Losi piece. The steering knuckles are almost the same, you just lose the rear hole for the steering ballstud. And the rear hubs also work. Apparently these items will also work with the TC3/4's, so tht would leave me to believe the TC3/4 parts will work as well.

The C-hub that came off of the car was a losi hub. The only thing that I'm wondering about are the openings for the bearings. Are they the same tolerances or no? I'm going to try a little later with my Losi parts.

Skill

I'm not 100% but I'm guessing that the Losi and Associated parts use imperial sized bearings, so the bearings from the Pro 4 probably won't fit in the hubs, and the axles for the driveshafts probably won't fit in the imperial bearings for the hubs. In other words I'd have thought that to run Losi or AE hubs you'd need to buy new bearings and axles for the driveshafts.

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

That's what I was thinking. But the tolerance just might be close enough. Like I said, it was Losi C-hubs that came off the car, I just want to figure it out using parts that bearings are present and find out for sure.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

An all HPI Pro4 is a "Happy" Pro4..

Platinum_Racing

I know there are some people in the Off-Road world that would run a XXX-T MF1 instead of an MF2 for some tracks, and some people prefer the XX-4 instead of the XXX-4, but are there any TC guys who would take the PRO 3 over the PRO 4 for a given track? Are there any advantages one might have over another?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Hmm maybe just for rally racing . The Pro3 doesn't have droop stops. That's a major no no.