josh69162

iTrader: (3)

What kind of pinions do you guys use? Do you use the HPI short shank ones? They seem like they would make life easier, but 9 bucks a gear is f-ing outrageous.
-Josh

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

Roninson Racing pinions work well, the shank on them is short enough, they also make purple ones

DOMOisCOOL

On the purple ones, I have to install it so the gear faces the front.

diha

iTrader: (3)

Hi,

I am confusssssed......
So is HPI manual instruction correct or wrong?

AMGRacer

Do people find the flexible arms wear a bit quicker than the stock arms? My rear arms have developed a bit of slop around the rear hub area quite quickly.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

you talking about the hi traction arms?
yes just like with any plastic parts they will develope some slop. those arms take alot of abuse and inpact and will wear out faster than the graphite version.

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

ran my pro4 first time(used).. it is as fast as my yok rayspeed...
thanks everyone to help me bullet proof my drive train..

now.. few more question coming from me again...
any hop up parts i should consider of getting..

i have most of the toe block, c-hub, spare cvds, arms, and diff..
what else should i stock up for this car beside the common stuff?

i was looking at the camber plate... will the plated one help also...

thanks for the help

~ming

jayrodracer

has anyone tried haras nats winning setup or thads reedy race/tamiya track setup on an ashpalt track, if so can i get some feedback.

thanks

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

from the '04 Roar Nats? I think everyone here has tried at one point or another.... very good set-up works great..just some minor tuning to suit your driving style and track...
Mine is almost identical except for the rear shocks. I moved mine next hole inward...#3 hole or center mounting position.

AMGRacer

Yeah I am not bothered by it, just looking at my replacement timeframe on them. My graphite arms are tighter with over 3 times the runtime on them.

I had a MONSTER crash into a metal shelving unit at the end of the straight with an 8 turn and my rear arm took most of the impact. Did not break. Love this car.

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

Right here with ya...

I recommend the steering blocks. Most of the front end crash strains will be taken by the c-hubs and steering blocks. I had a nasty crash coming into the board at an angle. I snapped the steering block where the lower screw goes in and half the block was missing... And I also snapped the ball stud on the top for the camber link. I bent a hingpin so I would pick up some of those. They are like 5 bucks for two. I think that's it...
-Josh

Din Viesel

Just finished building my Hara edition and have to say that this is one of the smoothest and freest (if thats a word), cars I have ever felt! My only problem and it's a big one....is the front spool is LOUD as hell!!! as well as the rear diff. I took both apart several times to look for burs and any possible flashing left on the gears, as well as, played with the shims. After about 2 hours of work I was able to silence the rear but the front still sounds awful. I miss my belt car (this is my first shaft driven car), Is there something else I can do to fix this problem??? Also with the stock spur 98t what pinion number roughly are you using (I know track size,tire size will vary the tooth count) but I am just looking for a ball park start!

thanks

Din Viesel

I also forgot, I am planning on going to the indoor champs race in MD in less than a week. I was looking for a good setup to get me started..
It's indoor aspalt with what I have been told has having insane traction, I do not know about layout, since they will change the one they have now to a new one.
nothing like jumping into the fire, new car, and no drive time on it!
oh well looking forward to seeing what this car is capable of doing

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

I used a 35 tooth for a stocker, but the manual has gear ratios for the motor turns. As for the front drivetrain, the only thing I can think of is play with the shims, and grease the gears. Greasing really helps a ton. By spinning the input shaft I get a second or two of spin. If it is shimmed too tight, or will be very loud, and won't spin. I have no shims on the rear input shaft, and I am gonna take apart the front and reshim everything when I clean it. Other than those two things, you shouldn't have any problems.
-Josh

Proteus

I'm one of the few that had the pro4 at the track. Your taking about the Colliseum, right? I took a break this summer but when I get a chance I'll find my setup sheet for that track. Sorex 36's and RP 30's worked real well. What class are you gonna run?