cpatel529

iTrader: (80)

Sorry for the confusion. I was getting the Pro4 BMI chassis confused with the TC4 version. Is this chassis suitable for outdoor/ashpalt use or is it just too stiff?

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

BMI chassis are very stiff, i had a tc3 one. i would say that the BMI chassis should mainly only be used on carpet or very high grip asphalt. i bet you could make it work on lower grip surfaces but it would probably difficult to find a great setup

Dane

iTrader: (26)

I'm currently running a three-year old mainly stock TC3 Racer kit with a Factory Team Graphite-Carbon chassis. I've been thinking for some time about updating the TC3 with a Pro 4. For those who have made the TC3 to Pro 4 switch, what differences did you notice? Was it worth it?

I know the TC3 still is a force on the track so I'll either upgrade it with a few select Facotry Team upgrades or look at another chassis.

Thanks,
Dane

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

i stil run both the tc3 and pro4. the pro4 i believe ius a little more of a stable car and turns a little better. that is why i yuse it for carpet racing when the track is tight. i still run my tc3 on big ourdoor tracks. granted its a full factory team tc3 it still runs with teh best of them. i just won our 4th of july freedom festival race in stock class with it, and i had it qualified 2nd in the North west fuel challege race last weekend running a 19t. on a big outdoor track the little quarks of the tc3 dont stand out that is why its still a great car for racing on a big outdoor track. so if that is what you run on then trust me you dont need to blow the money on a pro4 but if you run on a tight carpet track the pro4 is definatly much better. i still like my pro4 on outdoor tracks better but its only by a little and i would rather scratch up the tub on my tc3 then the carbon of my pro4

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

I've driven my friends next to bone stock TC3 around the little parking lot track we made with track dots, and one of the things I noticed was that the Pro4 seems to transition and enter turns better (granted, he was using a locked diff and myself a one-way). The Pro4 seems to ME to be more stable while still maintaining the fast reactions of your inputs. The Pro4 is DEFINATELY quieter. But that might just be because something is wrong with his TC3 (Although we rebuilt the diffs quite a few times, and oiled the bearings...)

From what I observed when I drove both cars, if I had a job (like you most likely have) that could support it, I would be able to justify buying another Pro4, one for asphault and one for carpet, because changing set ups all the time would get very old...

After driving both cars, I think the Pro4 definately has the upper hand, and I think you would be happy with the purchase...
-Josh

DOMOisCOOL

At my track, most cars are quieter than the TC3s for some reason. Even a sponsored AE TC4 driver's car is louder.

I own both cars (had a TC3 before I converted it to a rally car). I don't like the engineering of the car. I mean, the car is designed very well, but I can't get used to it. With the Pro 4, the day I got it, I got used to it very quickly. The car is much more easier to setup and looks better IMO.

Din Viesel

quick question!! I will be recieving my hara edition pro4 here in less than a week, I race both stock and mod as well as both carpet and asphalt. With all the mods that come with this machine do I need anything else as far as extra parts to run any of these conditions?
thanks

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

just the usual tuning aids like toe blocks, springs, and swaybars.
for carpet recommend you get the 3mm upperdeck to stiffen up the chassis.
the stock hara 2.25mm upperdeck was primarily designed for outdoor asphalt racing whick lets it have more lateral flex.

DORIFT

Hi all, been doing a bit of ashphalt racing on foams at my local track.

Just wanted to know what will be a good foam tyre diametre to true when using brand new foams.

Another question, after 3 heats of mod racing on ashphalt on foam tyres, the front tyres has become "cone" shaped. I am already running -2 degrees of negative camber and the front tyres still become cone shape. What should I do to compensate this from happening? and the steering ability was greatly affected from this phenomenon and gets worse every heat.

Thanks for reading and all help appreciated.

Carbon_Fibre3

which way is the coning? is hte inside thinner or the outside thinner?
if the outside is thinner... just reduce camber

what caster are you running, as this also is part of the tyre contact patch scenario - caster/camber relationship.

DORIFT

The outer is thinner than the inner(Chasis side).

Reducing the camber? I thought it was the opposite way around?

ah_liang

When I tried foam on my Pro 4, I had to give more than 4 deg camber to my front wheels ... u needs lot of camber for foam. 2 deg is more like for rubber IMO.

Carbon_Fibre3

sorry mate
yeah i had it back to front my bad

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

anyone have a good setup for a med. grip outdoor asphalt track with 2mm chassis? i basically need springs, shock position. i am using copper sway bars front and rear and 6 degree bocks in front with ride height of 6 and droop of 3

j03s4y

Not that different, they are both fruits!