jihernandez

Thanks. What specific hardware are you referring to? Actually tried to fit in TC3 differential screw to replace the Pro4's but it was a tad short in length. The Pro4 screw was not able to reach the grooves and tighten itself.

Maybe you can give me more details on what he hasactually done.
Thanks a lot. Still have time to do experiments b4 tonight's club race.

429racer

iTrader: (19)

Another thing you can do for your diff is not over tighten your diffs to where you soften the threads up on the plastic in your locknut. I had this problem to where it would let the screw unthread itself in a fast corner. Replace those locknuts frequently.

Proteus

You have to grind down the hub slots so that the nut slides down further. Also, do not use AE diff rings. You can use everything but the diff rings. The AE diff rings are thinner which causes the diff to bind.

jihernandez

will do that. will try also to put a tad of threadlock on the locknut. Thanks.

jihernandez

my apologies...AE?

EvilDriver

oke guys I'm manage to fix my on power push..
I noticed that my front arm didn't have any droop due to the shock limiter that put using the set up from andy moore..
so I gave in a 5mm droop in the front so the arms more level to the chassis.. I used the same thing went I had my xxxs g+ last year. I tried putting pro squat in the rear to give it more on power respond, it went too good that the exit was a little hairy I might want to try it again if the track have more low speed turn .. so I just used a .8mm anti squat on the rear and the car was easier to drive.. had a lot of control on and off power.

well hope this help..
Rez

tony2

iTrader: (1)

hey everybody,
i have just finished playing with the top deck, and made a few adjustments anyway got the chassis very flat. i set the ride height to 5mm and then checked tweak, well it was perfect!! didnt have to move any colars, so im happy now i just have to wait a day for racing...

AMGRacer

What did you do to the top deck?

Proteus

I was referring to Associated TC3 diff rings.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

use the TC3 diff screw and the t-nut that comes with it.......build your pro4 diff with those parts....use a drop of blue thread lock on the end of the nut.

with that you should have zero problems.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

back to page 1

Speed Demon

iTrader: (3)

hey Ramon... how ya guys doin??? still drivin ya Pro 4????
happy racin bro...

later..

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

waz up... hope all is well over there. yup still driven the Pro4... it will take a lot to switch to a different car. but the new SDW sure looks good with the aluminum bulkheads... just wish HPI would come out with one.

happy racin....

csilve

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jihernandez
[B]DARN IT!!! I am also getting sick and tired of these diff problems

If you check in the instructions I think it says when assembling the diff you only tighten the screw just until you are no-longer able to spin the ring gear while holding the out-drives.

Doug Gaut

Diff problems: I had issues back when I got my car but after I replaced the stock spring and bolt/nut I have NEVER had a problem again. Here are the two pieces you need to make a bullet proof diff.

Associated: #6582 Diff Thrust Spring $1.50
Associated: #6575 T-Nut and Thrust Bolt $2.00

Replace the spring and then use the bolt and nut assembly in place of the stock parts. Tighten the diff down so that it is locked using either two screwdrivers or an RPM diff tool. The diff should have smooth action. Put the white bolt cover that comes in the t-nut & thrust bolt package over the bolt to keep the dirt out and assemble the car.

The bolt has a hex socket head and is larger in diameter but the stock thrust washers fit perfectly over the bolt. The T-Nut has the squeezed nut with the plastic molded around it instead of a small nylon lock nut and holds extremely well.