Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Superfly.....I didnt glue mine either and I dont think it has effected anything.....but my rear diff did loosen up the frist 2 runs but then I tightened it more and it did not loosen the on the runs after that. Maybe that center part was not fully seated...??? I dont know but now its ok.

Superfly1967

Thanks for the info Kevin.

Beeb

How many screws are in the kit? 93? I've looked through my manual a few times and I've counted less than 90..

??

Michal101

iTrader: (13)

Hi,

I am looking a purchasing the Pro 4 since my LHS has two of them on the shelf, but what concerns me is that they have been there for over a month and a half and I have heard that HPI has fixed some minor flaws with the car after it's initial production during the last several runs of production.

So, my question is would I be better off buying it from a hobby shop that just got some new kits in...the ones with all of the flaws worked out?

Thanks, Mike

Beeb

There aren't any "flaws" worked out in such a fashion that the kits are different.

You'll probably want to "boil" the bevel gears in the kit, just to be safe.

I'd buy the kit if I were you. There's not another "improved kit" being offered at this time.

Rich_p

Could this not cause the diff to slip slightly as the centre isnt fixed?
I glued mine and it wasnt dead straight so I whacked it in to position,breaking the seal of the glue. After assembly the diff was slipping like crazy, I thought this may have been the problem?

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

RBLove, your setup that you posted on the BMI thread have you tried that on a high bite track??? Did you run the car on the Nats track???

Michal101

iTrader: (13)

Beeb,

I appreciate your reply, but I did read that HPI was going to make the countersinking of the screw holes on the chassis a little deeper due to the first batch of kits being not quite right and that the newer kits had the newer countersink. And I also heard rumors that they were enhancing the diff gears due to them being brittle.

Personally, I think that the boil trick should help with this problem

I believe it was John Shaever (sp) or something like that.

Thanks, Mike

Beeb

I think the first batch of kits were the ones made for japanese/asian market. The US kits should have the countersinking correct.

As for the brittle gears, I think someone said they're making a delrin diff but I don't know if it'd be included in the kits.

I could be wrong. Someone correct me if I am.

Cheers

popsracer

Guys;

Are you breaking-in, running-in your Diffs after assembly/rebuild?

It is important to do this with fresh parts to seat the Balls into the Diff rings. Otherwise slippage will occur.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Well-I just cleaned out the closet and hopefully I will sell enough in the next week to afford a Pro4 and then buy the BMI chassis and front diff for it.

If any of you guys bought it-built it right (no hack build jobs please), but dont want it now-e-mail me and if the timing and price are right-I'll take it off your hands. Since I a replacing the chassis anyways-the chassis can be scratched up, but diff cases and driveline, etc. must be mint!!

Thanks,
Ray

StewartFan20

iTrader: (4)

Is there a specail technique to breaking in the diffs? Or, do you just need to adjust it after a few runs?

Sorry for the silly questions. But, I am fairly new to this.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

I just play with the diff before putting it in my car, then make sure to check it every run for the first 3-4 runs. I know I tightened mine up twice, but it's been fine since.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I run 2-3 packs on mine on the bench at slow speed to break in the drive train... then adjust if needed....
after a few packs at the track...check the diff and adjust if needed...

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

How are the diffs holding up to mod motors? Anyone melt one yet or snap an outdrive by pure rip? I'll be running 8 and 9 turns in my sedans this summer.

Ray