rod_b

Woohoo! I won't be the only one at my track Where did you pick it up from?

popsracer

rod_b;

Hobby People, Rancho Cucamonga.

Bought their sole Pro4 and cleaned them out of the spare parts.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Ray you were asking about lap times,The track that I race at (most of the time) changes the layout every weekend,before I got my Pro4 the best I had done was 4th place(with an R2 and an Xray)with the Pro4 I have done alot better,3 firsts and 1 second(and one forth..got punted by a lapper)I would like to think it's the car..

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Hope this works... Used the EVO3 diff gear plate.
2 ways to go about mounting it:

1) drill 2 (2mm) holes & countersink on the CF plate to match the 3 holes on the one-way

2) drill 3 holes & 2mm Tap on the one-way to match the CF plate.

Here's the plate mounted using 3 screws:

tc3 racer sc

well guys i went a head place my order from superiorhobbies i be getting my pro4 in a few days i started wth a pro2 but lately i been running tc3 and going to contiue someone tell me what parts i need to stock up on on the pro4

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

If you read from about the 50 page mark, you can read all about the problems/ +'s of the car that people of had.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

Congrats on the purchase pops; I think you'll like the way it builds, and how it runs on the track.

Buddha

black-knight

LOL there's nothing like the feeling of cleaning out a shop! good work!

Frank McKinney

Hara does like his white springs One way to keep the competition guessing? Paint your springs.

About the diff updates - be glad that HPI is committed to updating the cars as necessary. Someone mentioned that Tamiya still has problems with their Evo 3 which is strange knowing Tamiya. Stuff is on the way, so don't worry about it too much. If you're still on the fence and haven't gotten the Pro 4 yet but still want to, try to wait another month or two, the bugs will have been worked out by then. Minor handfitting and things like soaking the gears are kind of the norm with a brand new competition-level RC car.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Does this mean that HPI will release newer versions of the kit with updated parts?

pucho

Reg,

let me know if you need parts Ill have them in stock soon.

Luis

pucho

On the whole tweek thin, I ran the car this week end and at one point I thought that the car was tweeked. well it turns out that it was my left rear droop screw ha misteriously moved from where it was and it was causing the tweek feel. After I found that out it was all right after that.

Frank McKinney

Nexus - It's just that there will probably be running changes made to the molds and plastics, like with anything else. It doesn't mean a part number or version change, just a minor variation or update to improve the product.

pucho - I think the thing to do is check your droop before every run, no matter what.

RC Donkey

I've had my pro 4 a couple of weeks now and absolutely love it. I haven't got much experience with r/c cars but this car looks lovely and was a lot of fun building.

I'm curious about some design aspects of the Pro 4. Hopefully someone can help me out:

1. What's the purpose of the Diff Outdrive Ring (75135) on the rear axle. The front doesn't have it and I've lost one of mine in a crash but haven't noticed any difference.

2. What's the purpose of the foam ring that goes on the ball joints?

3. Has anyone fitted the aftermarket aluminium block and hub set. Obviously a lot stronger but in a crash would it transfer the force of impact to another part of the chassis / suspension where as the carbon plastic one would have absorbed it or broke itself. I guess the ball joint would take some of that impact too.

Frank McKinney

The front one-way uses steel outdrives, the purple ring helps keep the carbon plastic outdrives from flexing, which can make you lose the CVD bone and drive to that wheel. If you get a front ball diff you'll get another pair of purple rings. If you run stock you may not have a problem without the ring but with a mod motor on a large track you may eventually weaken the diff outdrives.

They help keep dust and rubber from the tires (anything on the track) from getting under the ball cup and scratching the ball joint, or causing any binding.

I'd personally stick with the plastic parts. Plastic is lighter than aluminum so you don't lose performance, plus it's cheaper to replace.