Let's Build a Schumacher Mi3!
12 in the first pic, 11 in the second.
04-30-2007, 02:15 PM
#18
Tech Addict
this is good stuff adrian,,, thanks for taking the time to post this,,i know from flying r/c airplanes how helpfull a post like this is, and i have always wondered why someone hasnt posted a build thread for r/c cars... 
04-30-2007, 02:18 PM
#21
Tech Addict
i think the short bus riders are taking a toll on him,, russ really is a good guy
04-30-2007, 02:19 PM
#22
thank you adrian for all these descriptions! they are great for racers!
04-30-2007, 02:21 PM
#23
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I put the diff together and took pics at lunch today. At least I can say I generally working by doing this....what does Dual Corp have going on at RC Tech Today?
Now chop, chop, its time for shocks!
04-30-2007, 02:38 PM
#24
The spool is next. There is not a lot to do here but I chose to swap the 3 screws that hold the pulley in place for alloy units from Take Off (TS301P).
I applied blue thread lock to the alloy scres and to the screws that hold the outputs to the spool center.
The yellow seal bearings on the Mi3 are really good. The come oiled not greased so they spin free from day one. I chose to spray them out with motor spray and after they dried I lubricated them with a small drop of Powers Giga Lube (PJ0005).
Whenever you oil bearing be sure to use just a small drop. You want to lubricate them not fill them. Heavily oiled bearing have a lot more drag than lightly oild bearings. Lightly oiled bearings also attract a lot less dust and dirt.
As on the rear diff I decided to omit the thinest belt spacer. This will result in less friction on the sides of the belt as it runs and a more efficient drive train.
I applied blue thread lock to the alloy scres and to the screws that hold the outputs to the spool center.
The yellow seal bearings on the Mi3 are really good. The come oiled not greased so they spin free from day one. I chose to spray them out with motor spray and after they dried I lubricated them with a small drop of Powers Giga Lube (PJ0005).
Whenever you oil bearing be sure to use just a small drop. You want to lubricate them not fill them. Heavily oiled bearing have a lot more drag than lightly oild bearings. Lightly oiled bearings also attract a lot less dust and dirt.
As on the rear diff I decided to omit the thinest belt spacer. This will result in less friction on the sides of the belt as it runs and a more efficient drive train.
04-30-2007, 02:41 PM
#25
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by AdrianM
One of the most important factors in building a good diff is keeping everything clean. Before you start wash you hands to reduce the natural oils on your fingers.
Carefully place the diff balls on a paper towel and spray some more spray onto them. Take it easy unless you want to launch the balls all over you shop.
Get some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and spray some motor spray onto it. place a diff ring on the wet area and with a curcular motion sand the ring. If the motor spray dries out spray some more on to the ring and paper. The motor spray will clear away the steel removed by the sand paper. You want to have a consistant pattern of scoring across the full face of the diff ring. if you see any high or low spots in the area where the diff will run keep sanding. Sand both sides of both rings.
Clean the rings with motor spray to remove any residue and set them aside.
Clean the diff pulley with motor spray.
The main thing to remember is you want all the diff balls, rings and pulley to be clean and oil free.
Carefully place the diff balls on a paper towel and spray some more spray onto them. Take it easy unless you want to launch the balls all over you shop.
Get some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and spray some motor spray onto it. place a diff ring on the wet area and with a curcular motion sand the ring. If the motor spray dries out spray some more on to the ring and paper. The motor spray will clear away the steel removed by the sand paper. You want to have a consistant pattern of scoring across the full face of the diff ring. if you see any high or low spots in the area where the diff will run keep sanding. Sand both sides of both rings.
Clean the rings with motor spray to remove any residue and set them aside.
Clean the diff pulley with motor spray.
The main thing to remember is you want all the diff balls, rings and pulley to be clean and oil free.
Not everyone who buys one will see this post, and not everyone will think to look
This is poor IMO
04-30-2007, 02:48 PM
#26
How can you say that this is poor? 
In all the years I've been building RC Cars, I've NEVER seen these kind of detailed instructions in ANY manual. Adrian is going the extra mile and posting things that you learn with years of experience. Not from ANY manual I've ever seen. And I've built cars from a number of different manufacturers. I love it how a representative from a company goes out of their way to make sure as many people have the information to build the car properly the first time and someone finds something to complain about. 
In all the years I've been building RC Cars, I've NEVER seen these kind of detailed instructions in ANY manual. Adrian is going the extra mile and posting things that you learn with years of experience. Not from ANY manual I've ever seen. And I've built cars from a number of different manufacturers. I love it how a representative from a company goes out of their way to make sure as many people have the information to build the car properly the first time and someone finds something to complain about.
04-30-2007, 02:57 PM
#27
I don't drive Schumacher's and I think this is great! I have never seen this kind of detailed info in any manual.
I will be following this one.
Keep up the great work!
I will be following this one.
Keep up the great work!
04-30-2007, 02:59 PM
#28
Can anyone remind me who invented the balldiff on RC cars? 
schumacher ruuuuules
schumacher ruuuuules
04-30-2007, 03:00 PM
#29
Originally Posted by chris_dono
Don't want to sound harsh here, but why isn't this in the manual ? If this is something that should be done during the build of the car (a brand new car i might add...) then SURELY it should be in the manual.
Not everyone who buys one will see this post, and not everyone will think to look
This is poor IMO
Not everyone who buys one will see this post, and not everyone will think to look
This is poor IMO
He's helping the racers out there not writing a manual!
What a joker....
04-30-2007, 03:03 PM
#30
Originally Posted by chris_dono
Don't want to sound harsh here, but why isn't this in the manual ? If this is something that should be done during the build of the car (a brand new car i might add...) then SURELY it should be in the manual.
Not everyone who buys one will see this post, and not everyone will think to look
This is poor IMO
Not everyone who buys one will see this post, and not everyone will think to look
This is poor IMO
We have to write our manuals in the most basic way so as to get the necessary assembly instructions across without unnecessarily confusing young or inexperienced racers with too much specific detail or complex explanations.
More serious racers can benifit from addition information. This is why Associated sells Setup Guides for their cars, HPI had Hara do a build guide for the Cyclone on Hara's website and why I am posting this here on RCTech.
After I am done all of this will be complied and posted on www.schumacherpitspace.com and www.racing-cars.com free of charge for anyone to read at anytime.
