Dan

iTrader: (76)

A good night of USGT tuning with some friends and a lot of trash talking. (Mines is the blue Mugen)

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

harbor freight has the pliers.

MylesB

Mine is the one in the middle. The one with the battery cables over the top, which i wouldn't have it any other way. After running 4 battery packs i lost an o-ring on the rear wishbone assy socket. Not sure how one bearing stayed on but lost both e-clips and one bearing. I can't believe i found the bearing. Glad you get extra e-clips with the kit. Does anybody have a better option or idea for rear body posts position. They are to wide for the body i run.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

don’t need rear body post vertical post work just fine

yoryjyory

what body?

Won

I completed mine last night and try to mount my latest painting body shell but it didn’t go well.
The width of the front body post is the same as Xray X4 but it seems a little bit more upfront thus I made the whole around 66mm away from the window and the body shell was way to behind than what it was supposed to be.
Sadly I had to throw away the beautiful body shell. 😥

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

that’s why you practice body first

MylesB

I see it's not always easy to see tell if a body will work until you buy it. The body posts in the rear are the standard vertical posts but they line up on the edge of the humps. Very wide position on the rear body posts of 124mm.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

You don't. You first buy one. Better to ruin a clear body than a professionally painted one.

Ice_nl

Or you can use a magnetic body post marker kit. With the magnets you can see where the posts are and measure and mark the right distance. Also U4806 is useful to mark the wheel arches.

If you drilled the holes wrong you could use uv glue to glue some lexan over the inside and make new holes and use the body for practice.

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

They always lined up with the humps on that body. That was the one thing I hated about running it.
But it worked so it was worth it.

Vertical mounts are better anyway, the horizontal posts just became popular because its easier to mount bodies.
There is a def difference in when to use them though.

MylesB

Sorry i edited my post, i meant to say purchase not practice. It looks like i will try the magnetic route in the rear because i see no other option if i use the body i have already purchased and hydrodipped backwards. Do i still aslo need some sort of post to go thru the body when using maginets. I can't see them holding up when hitting a wall. A picture would be nice if you have one.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

The magnetic post markers work by mounting a magnet to the post, sitting the body on top, then putting a secondary magnet on top of the body to hold it in place. You then move the body around to get it to the right spot, letting the magnets hold the position while you verify it's lined up, then use a marker inside the hole in the magnet to figure out where the holes should go.

Double and triple check the positioning though before reaming, it's still easy to get it wrong even when using the magnetic tool.

MylesB

Now i get it. I thought the you meant using a maginet body post to hold the body in the rear during a race instead of the body clips. I plan on getting magnetic body posts, but not sure this is the best route for racing, but they look awful darn cool.

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

Those are used in drifting, they don’t care about sky high CG. Look at some of the drifting chassis, some mount the ESC on the top deck.