28LikesTLR 22-4 THREAD
01-28-2014, 03:40 AM
#2026
I called Horizon and sent an email exactly the way I was told to with pics, I just hope I can get the pulley sent to me this week, Friday night practice then the winter point series starts Sunday. Hopefully I get the call back from the guy from Horizon today.
Last edited by Durocken; 01-28-2014 at 04:33 AM.
01-28-2014, 06:27 AM
#2027
Question, Slipper thrust bearing.... Any light amount of lube? Wasn't called out on the manual.
01-28-2014, 06:33 AM
#2028
no lube...
01-28-2014, 06:52 AM
#2029
I did buy a R614 and it fits. I had to stand it up on its end with the antenna face up and I stuck it to the side of the servo. Its a tight fit but it finally cleared the body. I will take a picture of it tonight when I get off work.
01-28-2014, 07:08 AM
#2031
pondered this just now.... in regards to 1/10 scale
TLR is 2 for 2 on exceptional kits (22 2.0 and 22-4)
TLR is zero for 2 on kit release bodies. Thank god for aftermarket and the smarter people at TLR who come out with better bodies later on.
by the way. the stock 22 2.0 body does wonders for holding my door open thanks
TLR is 2 for 2 on exceptional kits (22 2.0 and 22-4)
TLR is zero for 2 on kit release bodies. Thank god for aftermarket and the smarter people at TLR who come out with better bodies later on.
by the way. the stock 22 2.0 body does wonders for holding my door open thanks
01-28-2014, 07:42 AM
#2032
is there metal wheel hexs?
01-28-2014, 07:47 AM
#2033
Hello, I am looking for some guidance on the clicker or full time 4wd settings for the front end. I mainly run on an out door - med bite track blue grooved mostly warm out ..... Would you recommend the front clicker set up or running locked down ? Also, I see some mention of certain peoples setup's , I did not see any setup sheets on the website, are they on here somewhere ? I am running the base setup right now and it felt pretty good, however I just want to see what some of the Pro drivers are using as a comparison
01-28-2014, 07:50 AM
#2034
Man I was not successful putting the R603 in my car. I think you can get it to fit on the left side where the ESC goes if you play around with the position of the ESC but I didnt want to put both on the left side of the car.
I did buy a R614 and it fits. I had to stand it up on its end with the antenna face up and I stuck it to the side of the servo. Its a tight fit but it finally cleared the body. I will take a picture of it tonight when I get off work.
I did buy a R614 and it fits. I had to stand it up on its end with the antenna face up and I stuck it to the side of the servo. Its a tight fit but it finally cleared the body. I will take a picture of it tonight when I get off work.
01-28-2014, 08:25 AM
#2035
Never ran the XX-4 in the past, so noob wheeler question. 
Just finished the chassis build, moving on to the diff and trying to get some starting references. I locked the clicker (it is tightened all the way down) and for now have the slipper tightened all the way down. How many turns should I back off for a good starting point while still on the bench?
Second, is same question for diffs. How tight do you guys run the diffs? This is just for a starting reference before I hit the track and break-in the diffs. I follow Matt Castellano's video for my diff builds. I think I have both front and rear diffs pretty tight, or do you tighten them just enough until the outdrives begin to spin in opposite directions. They are spinning as they should, but there is a bit of resistance.
Just finished the chassis build, moving on to the diff and trying to get some starting references. I locked the clicker (it is tightened all the way down) and for now have the slipper tightened all the way down. How many turns should I back off for a good starting point while still on the bench?
Second, is same question for diffs. How tight do you guys run the diffs? This is just for a starting reference before I hit the track and break-in the diffs. I follow Matt Castellano's video for my diff builds. I think I have both front and rear diffs pretty tight, or do you tighten them just enough until the outdrives begin to spin in opposite directions. They are spinning as they should, but there is a bit of resistance.
01-28-2014, 08:37 AM
#2037
Never ran the XX-4 in the past, so noob wheeler question.
Just finished the chassis build, moving on to the diff and trying to get some starting references. I locked the clicker (it is tightened all the way down) and for now have the slipper tightened all the way down. How many turns should I back off for a good starting point while still on the bench?
Second, is same question for diffs. How tight do you guys run the diffs? This is just for a starting reference before I hit the track and break-in the diffs. I follow Matt Castellano's video for my diff builds. I think I have both front and rear diffs pretty tight, or do you tighten them just enough until the outdrives begin to spin in opposite directions. They are spinning as they should, but there is a bit of resistance.
Just finished the chassis build, moving on to the diff and trying to get some starting references. I locked the clicker (it is tightened all the way down) and for now have the slipper tightened all the way down. How many turns should I back off for a good starting point while still on the bench?
Second, is same question for diffs. How tight do you guys run the diffs? This is just for a starting reference before I hit the track and break-in the diffs. I follow Matt Castellano's video for my diff builds. I think I have both front and rear diffs pretty tight, or do you tighten them just enough until the outdrives begin to spin in opposite directions. They are spinning as they should, but there is a bit of resistance.
01-28-2014, 08:41 AM
#2039
01-28-2014, 08:49 AM
#2040
I will properly set the slipper once it gets on the track.
