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Old 08-21-2013, 11:20 PM
  #13861  
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Originally Posted by Racer591
I had the 2 O rings between the shock end and the shock cups.

Moved the O rings above the shock cup and with the shock collars raised all the way up the same as before..25mm. Is that as low as everyone can get?

Thank you so much
Run stock shock locations too. Upper outside, lower middle as a start.
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:58 AM
  #13862  
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Thanks for the tips, I am setting it up like Austin Blair's setup for an outdoor track.

His sheet has similar traction characteristics
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:58 AM
  #13863  
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Originally Posted by RapidRC
Has anyone gotten the Viper VTX8 and Tekin Pro4 4600 to work together? I am building my SCT now and I want to set it up right from the the start. If that means I have to buy a Gen2 also I will even though I really don't want to spend the money if I don't have to.
Firstly, yes they work together, secondly why would you go and spend another $200 when you already have that bad arse ESC from Viper?

Use profile 3, double check that your set to 4 pole and that your voltage cutoff is atleast 3.1V per cell. If you are running on a high bite track start around 70% on the throttle punch, and PWM at 24000. BE SURE your drag brake is disabled or you will really see some nose down issues. I'd start with 100% brake and dial it out with your radio. PWM on brake 12000, but don't be afraid to go up from there if you don't think that it's smooth enough.

If you have any questions contact Nick at Viper. He's a super awesome guy, and he has it crap together.

Those were the settings that I started with, but I'm running the 4300 Pro4 HD. I can grab my truck at lunch along with my proguage and PM you the settings that I'm using. I know they work with the 4600 as a good buddy of mine is using that same combo, and it's more than capable. Good luck.
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:59 AM
  #13864  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Looks like I am going to be in the market for a new body. So, what do people suggested that:

1. Durable, must be Durable first and foremost
2. Cutouts prevalent everywhere

Also, what bodies are precut, just not drilled that people recommend?



+1 great info. Love this thread for that!
The Jconcepts Nissan titan body has been unbelievably tough, it is noticeably thicker the FTW diamondback body and the Pro-line hi-flow body. Keep in mind there are two versions of the body, the regular and the thin body for racing. I am using the regular version.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:04 AM
  #13865  
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Dear Tekno,

Can you send me Austin's Truck from the Nats a few weeks ago so I can post his setup and then send it back to you?

I was looking at the site, and those setups are pretty outdated. Any chance we can get those posted?

Thanks guys!
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:32 AM
  #13866  
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Originally Posted by GrimmReaper
Dear Tekno,

Can you send me Austin's Truck from the Nats a few weeks ago so I can post his setup and then send it back to you?

I was looking at the site, and those setups are pretty outdated. Any chance we can get those posted?

Thanks guys!
^^ +1
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:03 AM
  #13867  
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Pro-Line has a new body out.. It looks a little ugly to me, but with the right paint job it may turn out to be pretty epic on the track.. I'm gonna get one and send it off to Ab Brusher for him to mock something up..

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Old 08-22-2013, 08:26 AM
  #13868  
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Originally Posted by AlderBoy
FTW and Losi High Flow Pre-cut are my choices.
Originally Posted by Mizchief
I find the proline hi flow is thicker than the JC and lasts a little longer but still not pullet proof.
Originally Posted by symmetricon
The Jconcepts Nissan titan body has been unbelievably tough, it is noticeably thicker the FTW diamondback body and the Pro-line hi-flow body. Keep in mind there are two versions of the body, the regular and the thin body for racing. I am using the regular version.
Thanks for the info everyone. Got both my EB48 and SCT410 in big parts right now, SCT410 to get a cleaning today and hopefully start the rebuild process.

For the whole losi hi flow precut body, based on reviews on Amain it seems its thin in areas. Is this still a problem or what it just an issue back when that all was posted?

Will give the other bodies a look too.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:06 AM
  #13869  
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Originally Posted by ArmySSG
Pro-Line has a new body out.. It looks a little ugly to me, but with the right paint job it may turn out to be pretty epic on the track.. I'm gonna get one and send it off to Ab Brusher for him to mock something up..

My favorite features I spot on that body are the big flat areas around the body posts. I hate when there is a molded roll bar right next to the body post making it impossible to get a body clip in easily.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:39 AM
  #13870  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
My favorite features I spot on that body are the big flat areas around the body posts. I hate when there is a molded roll bar right next to the body post making it impossible to get a body clip in easily.
+1! I like the looks of it as well- different.

Last edited by Antimullet; 08-22-2013 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:42 AM
  #13871  
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Thanks for the input Grimm. I've had a rough time getting my Vtx8/vst4.5xl set up. That's why I got the pro4. I read some posts where people were having a a hard time getting the vtx8 and pro4 to work together.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:49 AM
  #13872  
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Originally Posted by ArmySSG
Pro-Line has a new body out.. It looks a little ugly to me, but with the right paint job it may turn out to be pretty epic on the track.. I'm gonna get one and send it off to Ab Brusher for him to mock something up..

that body would look a lot better with a new paint job, either way it looks good, so they painted the outside on the back to get the flat black, correct?, I might have to do that
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:05 AM
  #13873  
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Building my kit right now, the rear camber links first of all are really hard to get the ends on, now that I have them on all the way down (no threads showing, I can tell its going to have a good amount of positive camber, what do I do
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:06 AM
  #13874  
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Originally Posted by XRated SCT
that body would look a lot better with a new paint job, either way it looks good, so they painted the outside on the back to get the flat black, correct?, I might have to do that
Yea the flat black looks cool but I think it would scratch off easy.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:10 AM
  #13875  
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Originally Posted by XRated SCT
Building my kit right now, the rear camber links first of all are really hard to get the ends on, now that I have them on all the way down (no threads showing, I can tell its going to have a good amount of positive camber, what do I do
You finish the truck, put the tires on, then adjust the camber to what you want to run.

Don't worry about getting the camber links to exactly 32mm or whatever it is, you are going to adjust as necessary anyways.
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