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Old 07-25-2013, 02:46 PM
  #12586  
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Thanks for the tips! I had a pretty good grasp on the concept but still learned a few things. So for current limiter you basically only care about having enough acceleration for as much traction as you have, and Top speed isn't really effective since it's not pulling as much current at speed vs. hard acceleration hitting jumps going down straits etc. So if you punch it and are spinning all 4 wheels your just wasting power. Sound right?
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:52 PM
  #12587  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Thanks for the tips! I had a pretty good grasp on the concept but still learned a few things. So for current limiter you basically only care about having enough acceleration for as much traction as you have, and Top speed isn't really effective since it's not pulling as much current at speed vs. hard acceleration hitting jumps going down straits etc. So if you punch it and are spinning all 4 wheels your just wasting power. Sound right?
Correct, current draw is at the highest when accelerating or spinning the tires (doing drift turns on loose conditions, for example, will quickly heat things up), so dropping the current limit shouldn't affect top speed at all unless you're doing speed runs and stressing everything at length. While there is certainly a place for wheelspin, simply taking off from a start or accelerating out of a corner is not it.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:22 PM
  #12588  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Anyone have a good way of doing static weight distribution on this truck? I was thinking of making finding some camber or steering links I could replace the shocks with at the same length of the shocks when the truck is at normal ride height. then use the 4 scale method to set the weight balance. Just need to figure out how to replace the shock with a fixed rod, or lock up the shock somehow at a certain length. Maybe a shit load of o rings on the shaft?
Don't replace the shocks! The spring "preload" is important if you want to check cross weight.

Do take the tires/wheels off as they can be out of round and really wreck the scale readings. I use Legos to support the axles. Easy to make something that works out of Legos.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:31 PM
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Using a solid shaft will give you the weight bias of the chassis. Or as the captain said below, any means to lock out suspension movement with equal f/r ride height.

Add shocks with springs to that and you are corner balancing the ride height adjustment.
You can not get an accurate read on chassis weight when you add that variable.

Example, get your baseline from all four scales, adjust the spring collar on one shock. The scales read different numbers but you did not add, remove or move weight at all on the chassis.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Anyone have a good way of doing static weight distribution on this truck? I was thinking of making finding some camber or steering links I could replace the shocks with at the same length of the shocks when the truck is at normal ride height. then use the 4 scale method to set the weight balance. Just need to figure out how to replace the shock with a fixed rod, or lock up the shock somehow at a certain length. Maybe a shit load of o rings on the shaft?
Originally Posted by Manning
Don't replace the shocks! The spring "preload" is important if you want to check cross weight.

Do take the tires/wheels off as they can be out of round and really wreck the scale readings. I use Legos to support the axles. Easy to make something that works out of Legos.
Spring preload can compensate for issues in the balance. If you are looking for a true chassis weight measurements you have to lock the shocks at ride height. I use 4 equal weight pieces of pvc pipe to replace the springs. I know the springs aren't equal weights and aren't the same as my lockouts so the numbers will be off a tad. I'm more interested in the percentages.

+1 on removing the tires, never thought about using legos, thats brilliant!
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:50 PM
  #12591  
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I'm going to be buying a 4x4 sct this month but trying to decide between the tekno and the ofna ts4 . I already got a rx8 gen2 a hitec 7955 tg and a tekin pro4 hd 4300kv . Iv read about the ofna and guys say its not great outdoors. I mostly run on big outdoor tracks big jumps dusty dry rough conditions . I hear the tekno is a bit on the heavy side . Can anyone give me some pointers on what's truley best for me
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:45 PM
  #12592  
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Originally Posted by Brandonmorris44
I'm going to be buying a 4x4 sct this month but trying to decide between the tekno and the ofna ts4 . I already got a rx8 gen2 a hitec 7955 tg and a tekin pro4 hd 4300kv . Iv read about the ofna and guys say its not great outdoors. I mostly run on big outdoor tracks big jumps dusty dry rough conditions . I hear the tekno is a bit on the heavy side . Can anyone give me some pointers on what's truley best for me
I drove Team C TS4 TE last season before switching to Tekno. IMHO Team C is lighter thus it accelerate quicker and jump higher. The problem is landing, awkward landing usually translate to DNF. With Tekno it feel more sluggish and harder to jump, but the car is more planted and stable and I can really push the car on my mains. I drive way faster and consistent with the tekno although I achieve best lap time with the Team C. The other thing is part quality with the Team C you have to change the plastic parts often whilst with Tekno, in 5 months I only change the steering block once.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:16 PM
  #12593  
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Originally Posted by jiriel
I drove Team C TS4 TE last season before switching to Tekno. IMHO Team C is lighter thus it accelerate quicker and jump higher. The problem is landing, awkward landing usually translate to DNF. With Tekno it feel more sluggish and harder to jump, but the car is more planted and stable and I can really push the car on my mains. I drive way faster and consistent with the tekno although I achieve best lap time with the Team C. The other thing is part quality with the Team C you have to change the plastic parts often whilst with Tekno, in 5 months I only change the steering block once.
Pretty much spot on with my experience with the both of them. The team c drives great, its sucks that the front a arms are so rubbery. It is also not nearly as durable as the Tekno. With the team c truck your electronics and batteries will be happy though. The one thing that killed it for me was that the ring and pinion gears weren't machined, if a pinion gear bearing went it was toast.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:23 PM
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Yea I figured the tekno was a tougher truck . Will the tekin pro 4 hd 4300 be a good motor for the tekno
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:25 PM
  #12595  
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Originally Posted by Brandonmorris44
Yea I figured the tekno was a tougher truck . Will the tekin pro 4 hd 4300 be a good motor for the tekno
This truck is awesome with that motor!
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:14 PM
  #12596  
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Ok awesome another thing I like about the tekno is its a kit so I can know it front and back . The ofna is pre built
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:47 PM
  #12597  
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Originally Posted by Brandonmorris44
Ok awesome another thing I like about the tekno is its a kit so I can know it front and back . The ofna is pre built
The Tekno is for sure the winner between those two. The only other trucks to consider would be the SCTE and Durango IMO. Just buy the Tekno, you wont regret it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:55 AM
  #12598  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Thanks for the tips! I had a pretty good grasp on the concept but still learned a few things. So for current limiter you basically only care about having enough acceleration for as much traction as you have, and Top speed isn't really effective since it's not pulling as much current at speed vs. hard acceleration hitting jumps going down straits etc. So if you punch it and are spinning all 4 wheels your just wasting power. Sound right?
I run the Tekin RX8 and a Pro4 4600 in my SCT410 and have the current limit set at 60%. I have all the power I need and is much easier to drive. I also have no issue making a 10 minute main on a 6000mah battery. I put back 4600 to 4800 mah in the 6000 pack after 10 minutes. I no longer have a need for buying 7200mah packs.
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:13 AM
  #12599  
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Originally Posted by jetcam2
I run the Tekin RX8 and a Pro4 4600 in my SCT410 and have the current limit set at 60%. I have all the power I need and is much easier to drive.
That's right where we're at too (w 16-tooth pinion)--Truck rips!!
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:13 AM
  #12600  
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Awesome yea I have a couple of those turnigy 5.8 packs those should work I hope . Might
Pick me up some bigger ones
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