17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
07-24-2013, 02:24 PM
Drove my SCT410 for the second time today at my friends backyard track.
Tried Losi green springs all around on a astro track and the damping felt good, but in the corners, when the car rolls, it's like the inside goes and the outside doesn't go down. Which results in griproll. I think a soft spring would be better right? He gave me his silver Losi springs to test.
I also tried the front camberlink in the upper hole on the tower and that calmed down the frontend a lot! Try this if you're griprolling on high traction surfaces.
And last, my lipo's are extremly hot after driving for 6-7mins. They are 5500mah and 45C. I think that they swell up from the fast discharge. I'm running the Hobbywing 4700kv combo. I dropped from a 15T pinion to a 14T and temps and runtime seemed to be a little better. Would the 4000kv be more efficient?
Tried Losi green springs all around on a astro track and the damping felt good, but in the corners, when the car rolls, it's like the inside goes and the outside doesn't go down. Which results in griproll. I think a soft spring would be better right? He gave me his silver Losi springs to test.
I also tried the front camberlink in the upper hole on the tower and that calmed down the frontend a lot! Try this if you're griprolling on high traction surfaces.
And last, my lipo's are extremly hot after driving for 6-7mins. They are 5500mah and 45C. I think that they swell up from the fast discharge. I'm running the Hobbywing 4700kv combo. I dropped from a 15T pinion to a 14T and temps and runtime seemed to be a little better. Would the 4000kv be more efficient?
07-24-2013, 02:43 PM
Lower KV motors are generally more efficient. But I don't think your issue is because of the motor or your batteries themselves. It sounds like there is probably some resistance in the battery leads. I'd try checking them for resistance if you have the proper equipment, or just try re-soldering all of your leads including motor wires and make sure you have good solder coverage and a shiny solder joint. .
I'll try to heat them up again and see how that goes.
07-24-2013, 02:58 PM
Which esc is it that you have? Does it have external solder tabs for the motor wires and battery leads? Or do the cables go straight into the ESC housing?
07-24-2013, 03:02 PM
07-24-2013, 03:15 PM
If you have some solder equipment, de-solder the original wires and if you can, wick away as much of the old solder as possible with a solder-pump or copper solder-wick. Then solder the wires back on and retest.
Also, you said you had puffed batteries, were they puffed only after you drove the truck with that ESC/motor combo? As stated, at 5500mah and 45c discharge, you've got 245 amps to work with and that combo shouldn't even come close to really stressing the battery to the point of premature puffing unless it was already on its way out from previous use.
07-24-2013, 03:43 PM
Drove my SCT410 for the second time today at my friends backyard track.
Tried Losi green springs all around on a astro track and the damping felt good, but in the corners, when the car rolls, it's like the inside goes and the outside doesn't go down. Which results in griproll. I think a soft spring would be better right? He gave me his silver Losi springs to test.
I also tried the front camberlink in the upper hole on the tower and that calmed down the frontend a lot! Try this if you're griprolling on high traction surfaces.
Tried Losi green springs all around on a astro track and the damping felt good, but in the corners, when the car rolls, it's like the inside goes and the outside doesn't go down. Which results in griproll. I think a soft spring would be better right? He gave me his silver Losi springs to test.
I also tried the front camberlink in the upper hole on the tower and that calmed down the frontend a lot! Try this if you're griprolling on high traction surfaces.
linkage and swaybar changes for me did more than shock changes overall. Not saying you won't change your shocks, but that is what I noticed, then with shocks, oil and maybe a slightly stiffer spring, if that.
And last, my lipo's are extremly hot after driving for 6-7mins. They are 5500mah and 45C. I think that they swell up from the fast discharge. I'm running the Hobbywing 4700kv combo. I dropped from a 15T pinion to a 14T and temps and runtime seemed to be a little better. Would the 4000kv be more efficient?
The 4000Kv version however I have been quite impressed with, Temps are lower on the batteries (7200mah 80Cs, so about the best you can get right now) in comparison to what I was seeing on the Pro4 HD. I would recommend you check your current limiting features (or similar, for me on the Speed Passion that the DRRS setting) and start VERY low. It can help a lot
Also, you said you had puffed batteries, were they puffed only after you drove the truck with that ESC/motor combo? As stated, at 5500mah and 45c discharge, you've got 245 amps to work with and that combo shouldn't even come close to really stressing the battery to the point of premature puffing unless it was already on its way out from previous use.
07-24-2013, 03:53 PM
For the traction rolling issues, You can try raising the link height on the rear tower as well. Running on carpet that really cut down on traction rolling, combined with stiff sway bars.
linkage and swaybar changes for me did more than shock changes overall. Not saying you won't change your shocks, but that is what I noticed, then with shocks, oil and maybe a slightly stiffer spring, if that.
To be honest, I am not surprised. the Hobbywing 4 Pole motor that I believe you are using is a beast. Its more beastly in my opinion than Tekin's Pro4 HD motor. from what I have seen posted, people have puffed even the best batteries with combos that hot.
The 4000Kv version however I have been quite impressed with, Temps are lower on the batteries (7200mah 80Cs, so about the best you can get right now) in comparison to what I was seeing on the Pro4 HD. I would recommend you check your current limiting features (or similar, for me on the Speed Passion that the DRRS setting) and start VERY low. It can help a lot
Did you add cage style bullets? if so, you don't want to use those. I'd go with Castle hard bullets or similar, probably 5mm or bigger or hardwire.
2S SCT usage can really stress a battery. Even top batteries depending on the track, gearing, and ESC setup can kill the batteries, and i am talking the 7200mah 80C or so lipos out there now.
linkage and swaybar changes for me did more than shock changes overall. Not saying you won't change your shocks, but that is what I noticed, then with shocks, oil and maybe a slightly stiffer spring, if that.
To be honest, I am not surprised. the Hobbywing 4 Pole motor that I believe you are using is a beast. Its more beastly in my opinion than Tekin's Pro4 HD motor. from what I have seen posted, people have puffed even the best batteries with combos that hot.
The 4000Kv version however I have been quite impressed with, Temps are lower on the batteries (7200mah 80Cs, so about the best you can get right now) in comparison to what I was seeing on the Pro4 HD. I would recommend you check your current limiting features (or similar, for me on the Speed Passion that the DRRS setting) and start VERY low. It can help a lot
Did you add cage style bullets? if so, you don't want to use those. I'd go with Castle hard bullets or similar, probably 5mm or bigger or hardwire.
2S SCT usage can really stress a battery. Even top batteries depending on the track, gearing, and ESC setup can kill the batteries, and i am talking the 7200mah 80C or so lipos out there now.
07-24-2013, 04:01 PM
On tracks where you can take advantage of the power the 550 4 poles can deliver, it can really punish a battery.
07-24-2013, 04:25 PM
They actually do a really good job, they must use some strange solder though because even with my Hakko cranked all the way up I was having trouble getting it to come off since my motor is hard wired. I had to cut the wires super short before I could get enough heat in it to melt that stuff.
07-24-2013, 04:30 PM
if that's the case, I'm starting to think the issue lies in the connectors we use. Granted I have not had an issue with mine, but if the current popular connectors like Dean's and EC3 can barely get 80-100 amps (120a with EC5) of continuous draw, then shouldn't we be using connectors like castle's polarized units that can handle up to 200 continuous amps?
07-24-2013, 04:35 PM
They actually do a really good job, they must use some strange solder though because even with my Hakko cranked all the way up I was having trouble getting it to come off since my motor is hard wired. I had to cut the wires super short before I could get enough heat in it to melt that stuff.
Silver solder has a higher melting point so they might have used that. But the Hakko shouldn't have an issue with silver solder so long as you have a nice chisel tip or a reservoir tip to allow more surface area to be in contact with the iron. That helps spread the heat better and makes for a quicker solder job on thick wires.
I've got the Hakko FX888 station and at 800f, it can heat up an 8ga wire in no time with my choice of solder.
07-24-2013, 05:41 PM
Silver solder has a higher melting point so they might have used that. But the Hakko shouldn't have an issue with silver solder so long as you have a nice chisel tip or a reservoir tip to allow more surface area to be in contact with the iron. That helps spread the heat better and makes for a quicker solder job on thick wires.
I've got the Hakko FX888 station and at 800f, it can heat up an 8ga wire in no time with my choice of solder.
I've got the Hakko FX888 station and at 800f, it can heat up an 8ga wire in no time with my choice of solder.
07-24-2013, 05:45 PM
I have the same solder station, with the wide chisel tip clean, tinned and all the way up it wouldnt melt it. I think it was partially due to the long wires handing off it, they were acting as a heat sink and pulling all my heat away from the solder. Once I cut them it was better but it was still harder than normal. It soldered back on like normal, it was a strange experience to say the least.
07-24-2013, 06:23 PM
Drove my SCT410 for the second time today at my friends backyard track.
Tried Losi green springs all around on a astro track and the damping felt good, but in the corners, when the car rolls, it's like the inside goes and the outside doesn't go down. Which results in griproll. I think a soft spring would be better right? He gave me his silver Losi springs to test.
I also tried the front camberlink in the upper hole on the tower and that calmed down the frontend a lot! Try this if you're griprolling on high traction surfaces.
And last, my lipo's are extremly hot after driving for 6-7mins. They are 5500mah and 45C. I think that they swell up from the fast discharge. I'm running the Hobbywing 4700kv combo. I dropped from a 15T pinion to a 14T and temps and runtime seemed to be a little better. Would the 4000kv be more efficient?
Tried Losi green springs all around on a astro track and the damping felt good, but in the corners, when the car rolls, it's like the inside goes and the outside doesn't go down. Which results in griproll. I think a soft spring would be better right? He gave me his silver Losi springs to test.
I also tried the front camberlink in the upper hole on the tower and that calmed down the frontend a lot! Try this if you're griprolling on high traction surfaces.
And last, my lipo's are extremly hot after driving for 6-7mins. They are 5500mah and 45C. I think that they swell up from the fast discharge. I'm running the Hobbywing 4700kv combo. I dropped from a 15T pinion to a 14T and temps and runtime seemed to be a little better. Would the 4000kv be more efficient?
07-24-2013, 07:11 PM
Have you ran those pistons a few times to have got a feel for them? Did Marcus get it right? Or you guys are still working on it?
