Tekno SCT410 Thread
Tech Master
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Man i better stock up on bearings...
Id say you had the lucky bearing out of 100000000000000
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Id say you had the lucky bearing out of 100000000000000
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Here are a couple of pics of my new Proline Flo Tec body that I painted up this last weekend...
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Had my first race with the Tekno last weekend. The truck drove amazing for a stock setup. I TQ'd but as you saw, I had some bad luck in the main..
But do you guys have any setup advise? Lighter fluid, stiffer springs?
But do you guys have any setup advise? Lighter fluid, stiffer springs?
+ YouTube Video | |
Last edited by JRapid; 07-24-2013 at 06:54 AM.
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I don't buy a sleeve of ten for every bearing size in any given kit, but I always have spares for anything that sits in the wheel hubs - always. They can last seemingly forever at times, and others last a race should you side-load one somehow.
Off-road 4WD chassis are brutal on bearings to begin with...
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Thanks for the tips, current tires I destroyed were soft enduros. They were great at a friends backyard track but it wasnt packed in like norcal so the large lugs just get ripped off on such a high grip surface.
I think for Proline something like the x2 would be too soft still, maybe something more along the lines of mx. They say on their site it should work well on abrasive tracks and that basically describes norcal.
I think for Proline something like the x2 would be too soft still, maybe something more along the lines of mx. They say on their site it should work well on abrasive tracks and that basically describes norcal.
On the tracks you guys have out there, do blockades find any useage?
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Hey guys, I plan to be ordering my sct410 before the end of next week...
(I sold my E-Revo roller to pay for my new toy.)
But I do have a few questions...
I've read the last 15 pages or so on this thread, and fully intend to go back to read the first page over a few times to let it all soak in. I also plan on looking into a few of the setup sheets before I build the kit.
I'm wondering:
-what; if any, spare parts to order with the kit?(are guys breaking a-arms or hubs??)
-should I order any optional parts ahead of time?(CF or CNC alloy shock towers, or more shock shafts? Optional springs?)
-what pinions should I grab? (I plan to be taking the RX8 out of my Revo, and a ten shock sc411 4000kV.) On my local track I run a 2250-t8 geared 12/44 on my mugen mbx6-eco.
-which servo should I rob from my other trucks?(I've got a Savox 1256tg and 1258tg
To choose from.)
-any reason my FTW Racing Diamondback body wouldn't fit??
Thanks for the help, I know I've got lots of reading ahead of me before I get this kit, but I look forward to being another contributing member here on RCTech.
PS... Bcholka; I think I may have run into you at Trackside last Friday night. I was on my way out the door asking how to get to Miller Park for the Brewer's game. And ask a guy what he has... he said he wrenched for his son, but didn't drive an RC him self...
(I sold my E-Revo roller to pay for my new toy.)
But I do have a few questions...
I've read the last 15 pages or so on this thread, and fully intend to go back to read the first page over a few times to let it all soak in. I also plan on looking into a few of the setup sheets before I build the kit.
I'm wondering:
-what; if any, spare parts to order with the kit?(are guys breaking a-arms or hubs??)
-should I order any optional parts ahead of time?(CF or CNC alloy shock towers, or more shock shafts? Optional springs?)
-what pinions should I grab? (I plan to be taking the RX8 out of my Revo, and a ten shock sc411 4000kV.) On my local track I run a 2250-t8 geared 12/44 on my mugen mbx6-eco.
-which servo should I rob from my other trucks?(I've got a Savox 1256tg and 1258tg
To choose from.)
-any reason my FTW Racing Diamondback body wouldn't fit??
Thanks for the help, I know I've got lots of reading ahead of me before I get this kit, but I look forward to being another contributing member here on RCTech.
PS... Bcholka; I think I may have run into you at Trackside last Friday night. I was on my way out the door asking how to get to Miller Park for the Brewer's game. And ask a guy what he has... he said he wrenched for his son, but didn't drive an RC him self...
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APE Skid Plates are back in stock.
Thanks for your patience,
Chris
Thanks for your patience,
Chris
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
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Chris, please save me three of those and I will pick them up when I see you at Norcal next.
Thank you!
-Josh
Thank you!
-Josh
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
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Thanks for the tips, current tires I destroyed were soft enduros. They were great at a friends backyard track but it wasnt packed in like norcal so the large lugs just get ripped off on such a high grip surface.
I think for Proline something like the x2 would be too soft still, maybe something more along the lines of mx. They say on their site it should work well on abrasive tracks and that basically describes norcal.
I think for Proline something like the x2 would be too soft still, maybe something more along the lines of mx. They say on their site it should work well on abrasive tracks and that basically describes norcal.
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I just picked up some MX tires for this weekends race at NorCal. They feel firmer than M2s but maybe not as firm as X2s.
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As far as just running softs as slicks I just feel like even will the full carcass taking the beating they will still wear out in the center rather quick, maybe I am wrong.
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Orange Bar Codes are the default tire for NorCal's outdoor tracks when they have been groomed. Just about any bald tire works pretty well. Actually, the Losi Eclipses that come stock on the SCTE work pretty well too.
You could also use AKA Mediums or Pro-Line X2, M2 or MX compounds.
You could also use AKA Mediums or Pro-Line X2, M2 or MX compounds.
I am curious if anyone has tried something like Barcodes in Orange on a dry outdoor hard packed super abrasive track. NorCal eats tires and they work fine as slicks but I am trying to find something that will work well and have some longevity. I am also considering some Panther Slicks in soft (I think that is the hardest compound that they make in slicks). I guess the tire surface is thicker than a normal treaded tires carcass so they should last a lot longer.
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Please let me know how they work out. I am leaving for vacation next week for two weeks but when I get back I plan to start racing as much as possible.