17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
04-21-2013, 08:48 PM
#8896
A friend of mine raced over at WCRC on Saturday and he was able to chat with Barry Baker (who was also racing) and check out his SCT410. He said Barry was running the battery mod (battery moved back) can anyone confirm this? And what is the purpose for moving the battery back, more rear bite, eliminate nose down issues, or ?
04-21-2013, 08:56 PM
#8897
I have to say the air guards really work to keep air out of the body......My truck was nosing down really badly so I took them off and the truck started to jump just like the EB-48. Now I feel much more comfortable airing out the big jumps. On another note the green front springs with the orange rears felt really good too, the rear was a little loose in the sweepers but controllable if I stayed on throttle.
04-21-2013, 08:58 PM
#8898
Got to race the big outdoor track this weekend. Truck was handling and jumping well.
I also raced E-buggy. My truck vs. buggy fast laps were less than 1 sec apart, that's over a 24 sec lap. Pretty good I thought.
Running HW 4000 with a 17t pinion. Seemed plenty fast down the long straight.
Can't wait for some stiffer competition to show up.
I also raced E-buggy. My truck vs. buggy fast laps were less than 1 sec apart, that's over a 24 sec lap. Pretty good I thought.
Running HW 4000 with a 17t pinion. Seemed plenty fast down the long straight.
Can't wait for some stiffer competition to show up.
04-21-2013, 09:08 PM
#8899
Matt, thanks for the quick response. I have some ideas on extending the battery tray using some derlin and aluminum stock I have. It will allow the long battery strap to come up further back and will have a aluminum post/block to keep the battery from moving too far back (into the spur).
04-21-2013, 10:37 PM
#8900
Matt, thanks for the quick response. I have some ideas on extending the battery tray using some derlin and aluminum stock I have. It will allow the long battery strap to come up further back and will have a aluminum post/block to keep the battery from moving too far back (into the spur).
For those who are extending the tray and worried about the spur hitting the battery, I have some ideas for you.
1-run a long shank pinion and flip the center diff around
2-run the Traktion drive setup and, again, flip the diff
3-buy the center diff mount for the EB48. It has the brake cam mounts which can act as a barrier for your battery. You could even attach the brake cam stays to the screw locations or some standoffs to extend it to the mudguard.
Here's a pic of the part on the buggy
04-22-2013, 12:00 AM
#8901
I simply glued a small piece of graphite to the front of the servo mount. It won't allow the battery to get any closer than about 1/4" from the spur. Since this pic was taken I also added a piece of foam to fill the battery tray infront of the battery so it can't move forward.
04-22-2013, 04:58 AM
#8902
No problem
For those who are extending the tray and worried about the spur hitting the battery, I have some ideas for you.
1-run a long shank pinion and flip the center diff around
2-run the Traktion drive setup and, again, flip the diff
3-buy the center diff mount for the EB48. It has the brake cam mounts which can act as a barrier for your battery. You could even attach the brake cam stays to the screw locations or some standoffs to extend it to the mudguard.
Here's a pic of the part on the buggy
For those who are extending the tray and worried about the spur hitting the battery, I have some ideas for you.
1-run a long shank pinion and flip the center diff around
2-run the Traktion drive setup and, again, flip the diff
3-buy the center diff mount for the EB48. It has the brake cam mounts which can act as a barrier for your battery. You could even attach the brake cam stays to the screw locations or some standoffs to extend it to the mudguard.
Here's a pic of the part on the buggy
Is anyone using it on the truck, and if so how are you liking it?
04-22-2013, 05:13 AM
#8903
Today was the final round of the dirt mafia series. I ended up finishing 2nd overall. My buddy Scott took the top spot. I was 1 point behind heading into the final. He snagged the TQ by 4+ seconds. It was a close run switching positions here and there, but when i was in the lead my nerves got to me and had a lil bobble in the straight which let him pass. I was catching up, closing the gap but lap traffic and time remaining was not in my favor. It was a fun series and to be able to hang with Scott who was lapping me 5+ months ago is an awesome acheivement. He is by far one of the fastest, if not the fastest local pro 4 driver in our region. Thx to the SCT410 and Tekno for everything!!!!! One more year and I"M going to be the fastest in our region!!......not being cocky....being CONFIDENT
04-22-2013, 05:25 AM
#8904
Hmmm.... I have three 4000mAh 70C packs I should try! I never even thought of it. How much did you have to put back in after a round?
04-22-2013, 06:48 AM
#8906
04-22-2013, 07:40 AM
#8907
no need to be agro.
04-22-2013, 08:17 AM
#8908
any body know final drive
hey guys just picked up a sct410 from my buddy that ran 2 packs through it...so my ques. is anybody know final drive of the truck this is my first 4wd....thx guys
04-22-2013, 08:31 AM
#8909
I had everything stock except the rear camber link down 1 from stock and the shocks on the tower moved 3 spots from the outside on the rear, and 2 from the outside on the front.
Im using the Viper Copperhead ESC and 4500kv combo. Not the best electronics....ha. Maybe a better motor is a good idea.
Im using the Viper Copperhead ESC and 4500kv combo. Not the best electronics....ha. Maybe a better motor is a good idea.
Just wanted to say thanks. I stripped the gears on my s6040 servo and Cain just happened to have a spare Jr 9100s that he hooked me up with.
I didn't get to change my rear diff fluid to 2000 I left it at 3000 I did however turn my motor up and add some timing and moved my rear hub carries back 3mm front 2mm back that really allowed me to put the power down in the sweeper.
The soft city blocks really came around I couldn't have asked for more traction the truck was pretty dialed. I didn't finish in the top three but I did come back to take 5th overall. Pretty ruff weekend. I did try the stock springs with the 8hole pistons and never had any nose down action. Butt they may have been little soft for the sweeper because ever time I went threw there I was lifting the right front.
I didn't get to change my rear diff fluid to 2000 I left it at 3000 I did however turn my motor up and add some timing and moved my rear hub carries back 3mm front 2mm back that really allowed me to put the power down in the sweeper.
The soft city blocks really came around I couldn't have asked for more traction the truck was pretty dialed. I didn't finish in the top three but I did come back to take 5th overall. Pretty ruff weekend. I did try the stock springs with the 8hole pistons and never had any nose down action. Butt they may have been little soft for the sweeper because ever time I went threw there I was lifting the right front.
I tried the "Losi 2.0 setup" that I posted Wednesday and the truck was a rocket on a high bite track. But on a slick track, like today, the truck was undriveable. We put the bone stock setup back on and I even let a pro driver wheel it for assurance--it was much better in the slick.
Running 7/5/3. The question is to try 2,000 in the rear for outdoors? I see some are liking that for loose outdoor tracks. Will this calm the slightly loose rear down a bit? (I have my rear hubs forward and an aluminum driveshaft--which puts a bit more weight to the rear vs steel driveshaft.)
Running 7/5/3. The question is to try 2,000 in the rear for outdoors? I see some are liking that for loose outdoor tracks. Will this calm the slightly loose rear down a bit? (I have my rear hubs forward and an aluminum driveshaft--which puts a bit more weight to the rear vs steel driveshaft.)
I also think, based on the setup that i may play with the front diff setting in general for both vehicles as I think I may want a bit more off power steering versus on power as from what I can tell with my driving style, I like to let off the throttle and rotate through the corners that way versus being on throttle at a lower speed pulling through the turns. Heck, may even save some battery lol.
If you find you are having the nose down issue and feel you need more pack to solve it, that would be my suggestion. As timmybrown can attest, I am probably a medium level driver at best, but the truck really jumped great and had the pack needed on landings with that setup.
I just wish I had changed the rear diff fluid before I got out there.
More and more, I am leaning towards running 2K in the rear as part of my starting position outdoors here. Rather work on removing grip versus trying to add it lol.
Oh, also for those doing the tray mod, are you guys adding anything in to the brake servo location prior to trying? wonder if that could help.
04-22-2013, 08:41 AM
#8910
@cain, if i recall, you run on carpet correct? i have never ran on carpet, and i'm curious if you go thru tires like crazy?
