billdelong

iTrader: (33)

I recently had a problem with my wires getting unsoldered... did a complete rebuild of the truck, found a few crunchy bearings that needed to be replaced and also re-soldered fresh wiring/connectors and went through the whole truck with a fine tooth comb... then the truck would periodically shut off from hard landings... I was thinking it was a bad ESC, then eventually the motor seized up completely and it turned out to be a bad rotor:

sickpuppy1

iTrader: (32)

that got warm as biscuits!

skinned

iTrader: (12)

im taking it as you didn't change the motor bearings....lol..ive seen that happen a few times....couldn't you tell by how loud it was driving?

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

The motor was approaching 2 years old, no weird sounds other than normal operation, after pulling the rotor, I inspected the bearings and they're still in great shape, no crunchy feeling in the slightest. The truck has been very competitive too... it looks like it took a hard crash and a small corner chipped off one of the magnets then got wedged between the rotor and stator which consequently cut into the (epoxy/string) wrapping around the magnets and then excessive heat formed causing the wires to become unsoldered from time to time. I've been having intermittent problems for the past 6 months, it just got progressively worse until the motor finally locked up.

If I could do anything differently, I would've inspected the rotor months ago and I bet I could've seen the chipped magnet at that point which would've saved me a lot of frustration.

I've now realized is that all it takes is one nasty crash to damage a rotor, I'm going to make it a habit to regularly inspect the rotors in all my cars from now on! Probably worth inspecting every time they do a track layout change and I'm learning the timing for jumps and typically come up short with a lawn dart into the face of a landing ramp, I'm thinking that's when the rotor was more than likely damaged

skinned

iTrader: (12)

OMG!....so I did a resolder...got a motor fan ...dropped my pinion...and I did great this sat. I made it through all 3 quals and the main with no probs...thanks again everybody who gave me some tips...

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

any word on a .4 release coming anytime soon?

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I'm not aware of any but that doesn't mean there aren't any. TBH, most of us who race the truck already have what would be considered a ".4" anyway.

Emulsion caps
Ackerman
Bell Cranks
High Roll Center hubs
LF Springs
updated Ring and Pinion

^^ Those are the things that make the .4 a .4 (for the most part). About the only thing missing is the shorter arm / wider pivot, but I'm not certain the truck needs that.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

thanks for the tips... I've been hoping it might be coming soon because the .3 has been out of stock for a while but no sooner did you reply, and then I got an email alert that the .3's are back in stock

Phas3

where is it in stock!?

sickpuppy1

iTrader: (32)

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-r...kr5507/p438712

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

So I just checked the upgrade options for the SCT410.3 and they have TKR8100 as the ackermann plate upgrade, only problem is that the holes for the steering post arms are 47mm on center but my stock SCT410.1 ackermann plate is only 34mm on center.

Is this right?

I assume this will give me more steering.

shadaloo

iTrader: (2)

you also need 8104, the updated bell crank.
https://www.fiercercsolutions.com/TK...on-TKR8104.htm

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Ah, that makes sense... I just pulled the locked bell crank from my EB48.4 parts bin and can see how it's angled a little farther out.

Thanks!

trottermtg

So my truck is bucking pretty hard off jumps. I've ordered some new springs, went with green in the rear to see if that helps. . Any other solutions? I know it might be in the thread, but its 1700 pages ...

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

bucking = nose dive?

Folks in my area are running the EB48 low frequency springs, black front + orange rear and that seems to do really well for us. The springs are little longer than the stock SCT springs so you almost have to back out the shock collars nearly all the way in order to get ride height around 22-24mm. The extra length in springs tends to give just enough support to make it less likely to bottom out on the face of a jump which is fairly common for nose dive problems. There are some high speed jumps where you just have to slow down before the jump and make sure you are accelerating up the ramp to prevent nose dives.

Also helps to run Flotek bodies with all the cutouts removed and drill a row of holes along the dash of the front windshield to get balanced air flow. Too much trapped air toward the rear of the body will tend to cause a nose dive at high speed with large triples

Sometimes I'll just cut the entire rear tail light section off the body to help improve air flow on large 1/8 tracks