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Old 03-14-2015, 12:25 PM
  #25951  
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where is the leaking coming from?

Are you possibly having too much uptravel that could be knocking the bladders free?
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Old 03-14-2015, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rcracenut
Do you have to have the vent holes in the shock caps for bladder shocks? I have the aluminum vented caps and following the instructions I can't keep the bladders from leaking after a couple 12" drops. I have a new set of plastic caps that haven't been vented yet.
No holes in bladders?
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:10 PM
  #25953  
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Originally Posted by Noize
I feel that probably makes the best sense. I have my SC410 kit in the FS section. Maybe I'll swap it to trade toward eb48.2. Buggy looks like it would be tougher.

I like the local community a lot, but indoor racing not gonna be my thing.
Wait, didn't you just sell a RC8.2e? I think I would have kept that for a basher.

I've got a RTR CEN Colossus I got bored with pretty fast since I like running on the tracks so much. That thing is a pretty awesome basher. Got anything cool you would trade me for it?
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Old 03-14-2015, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Sofa King
No holes in bladders?
No holes in the bladders. Its like the cap dont hold the bladder tight enough and it gets sucked in. When I remove the cap it is folded into the shock body. And yes the oring that fits in the shock body itself (for emulsion) is removed.

Originally Posted by Cain
where is the leaking coming from?

Are you possibly having too much uptravel that could be knocking the bladders free?
It seals initially till I drop it from 8-12 " then it squirts out the small vent hole on the side of the cap.Up travel? No, I have a couple friends using the same aluminum caps with no orings on the shafts and they have no leaks.

Kind of wondering why Teckno dont have a mild groove in the cap to capture the seal. Also starting to think the caps maybe arent machined right. I could try it with the new plastic caps but Im getting tired of cleaning oil off my chassis.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:25 AM
  #25955  
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Originally Posted by rcracenut
No holes in the bladders. Its like the cap dont hold the bladder tight enough and it gets sucked in. When I remove the cap it is folded into the shock body. And yes the oring that fits in the shock body itself (for emulsion) is removed.


It seals initially till I drop it from 8-12 " then it squirts out the small vent hole on the side of the cap.Up travel? No, I have a couple friends using the same aluminum caps with no orings on the shafts and they have no leaks.

Kind of wondering why Teckno dont have a mild groove in the cap to capture the seal. Also starting to think the caps maybe arent machined right. I could try it with the new plastic caps but Im getting tired of cleaning oil off my chassis.
Personally, if your friends are having no issues with no orings but you are having issues with the same type of setup, I would say see if You can borrow there known working caps, and try a bench level compression cycle of the shocks with good force. See if you get an leaks that way, then, try it on the vehicle.

However, it may be that you have someething different about your kit than theirs that you may see benefits to the orings, you could always just limit up travel with some kind of clip on item just to try it and see.

But those are the steps I would do.

Also, when you build your shocks how much rebound are you building them with, relative to your friends?
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Old 03-15-2015, 12:03 PM
  #25956  
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Originally Posted by iScream
Wait, didn't you just sell a RC8.2e? I think I would have kept that for a basher.

I've got a RTR CEN Colossus I got bored with pretty fast since I like running on the tracks so much. That thing is a pretty awesome basher. Got anything cool you would trade me for it?
Agree on the 8.2e. Went to a 8.2 FT in a trade with Matthew, will be more robust than that RTR was. I'm now down to two cars now, the 8.2ft and the wr8 flux. Tekno kit is gone.
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Old 03-15-2015, 03:09 PM
  #25957  
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Just a quick comment on the bladders...I have two trucks, one for each son. The youngest sons is OLD, like one of the first kits out and the oldest sons is much newer. e When I converted them over to bladders the older kit didn't seem to hold the bladder nearly a firmly as the newer kit. I measured the threaded area on the shock body and they were identical so I'm thinking it was in the shock cap somehow. The older kit had a number of things that were just different. The lower shock cap and shock collar were different between the two as well.
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Old 03-15-2015, 03:09 PM
  #25958  
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Mine did both build and work properly afterwards though. Bladders rock!
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Old 03-15-2015, 03:39 PM
  #25959  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Personally, if your friends are having no issues with no orings but you are having issues with the same type of setup, I would say see if You can borrow there known working caps, and try a bench level compression cycle of the shocks with good force. See if you get an leaks that way, then, try it on the vehicle.

However, it may be that you have someething different about your kit than theirs that you may see benefits to the orings, you could always just limit up travel with some kind of clip on item just to try it and see.

But those are the steps I would do.

Also, when you build your shocks how much rebound are you building them with, relative to your friends?
Same zero rebound. We took the o ring off the shafts because it upset the handling.
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Old 03-15-2015, 04:35 PM
  #25960  
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Originally Posted by rcracenut
Same zero rebound. We took the o ring off the shafts because it upset the handling.
hmm, really wondering if that is your cause. Could be wrong though.

I'd say try the orings, 2 at least, and see if you notice any issues after.

Heck, maybe you need to run an emulsion setup.
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Old 03-15-2015, 05:24 PM
  #25961  
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Originally Posted by Noize
Agree on the 8.2e. Went to a 8.2 FT in a trade with Matthew, will be more robust than that RTR was. I'm now down to two cars now, the 8.2ft and the wr8 flux. Tekno kit is gone.
Ah, I didn't realize it was a RTR. Makes more sense to me now. I was checking out your old Schumacher buggy in there yesterday. That thing looks pretty nice.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:14 AM
  #25962  
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Guys, need some quick advice. My Tekno has a rx8 gen 2 and a pro4 HD motor in it. Trying to figure out basically the minimum battery I need to have. I see a couple of offerings from SMC which seems to have a good rep, but I don't think the square one will fit and I'm not sure if the 5000mAh 50C will cut it either. Just looking to see what most of you are running.
Thanks
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:18 AM
  #25963  
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Get either SMC's 6500 or 7200 pack. Both are more than adequate although the 7200 will show puffing more simply because they share the same case and the 7200 cells are a bit larger. I've been running 6500's through mine for years.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:28 AM
  #25964  
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Originally Posted by Calde315
Guys, need some quick advice. My Tekno has a rx8 gen 2 and a pro4 HD motor in it. Trying to figure out basically the minimum battery I need to have. I see a couple of offerings from SMC which seems to have a good rep, but I don't think the square one will fit and I'm not sure if the 5000mAh 50C will cut it either. Just looking to see what most of you are running.
Thanks
I have heard initial good reports on the VANT 7600mah lipo. Promatch sells these with a 1 year warranty for about $60 a pack. I may pick up some of these this year.

That, or for nutz power and runtime, the IP 7800mah lipos would be something work looking at too. I had there 7200mah ones and they were awesome and have a 6 month warranty
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:52 PM
  #25965  
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AND THE SCT410.3 IS OUT. CHECK YOUR FACE BOOK PAGES!!!
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