robbieg

iTrader: (26)

well, im gonna try and confuse everyone even further lol.
my understanding is

stock max toe with hubs Left/Left right/right is 4 degrees
with the lrc block 5 degrees..... with hubs left/right right/left puts you back to 4 degrees

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

You're correct but a better way to get to 4 degrees would be to keep the left on the left, right on the right, and use the center dot pill.

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Max toe on the EB with the LRC brace is 4. 3.5 was originally stated as being the max toe when the kit was first released but it in fact was 3, small error on our part.

I do plan on having a diagram up on the first post I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

sounds good. That explains why on the EB48 the whole +1.5 didn't make sense to me when I was thinking 3.5 lol.

For the SCT410, thought stock max was 4.5? At least that is what I am seeing on some of the setup sheets like these:

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con..._high_bite.pdf

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...h_med_bite.pdf

So my mind, then it would be 5.5 with the new LRC block.

But if what you say is true (4.0 degrees stock, 5.0 with LRC block) that's cool, just want to make sure on the same page

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, the 4.5 was with that same mistake

Cain

iTrader: (294)

ah okay. Ignore my pm response to what you said on toe then.

Alright so in short, stock max toe for SCT410 4.0 and 3.0 for the EB48.

Then add whatever the block you are using gives.

Assuming you guys will eventually make a new setup sheet reflecting these things? Got the printer ready when it is

Last thing for me is antisquat based on the EB48.2 setup sheet that I hope you can get me straight on via the pm I sent.

Thanks again!

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

PM sent.
A new setup sheet for the SC could be done, but it would only add the numbers and the double dot inserts. We will fix it but it's not a huge priority.
The EB48.2 and both of the nitro sheets are accurate though.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

got it thanks!

TheMuffinman

iTrader: (1)

so what is every one running in diff oil and shock oil I am running on blue grav hard pack clay and dusty track what would you setup from this need help

Badcompny44

iTrader: (8)

i run indoors and outdoors right now and ive been running 5-7-3 for diff oils at both tracks and works good. shocks for indoor i run 27.5 rear ae oil and 30 in the front ae oil. the outdoor tracks are about 30 rear ae oil and 32.5 front ae oil running the 8x1.3 pistions

nanoverse

Wow what a day at the track. We have a SC Cup where we race at different tracks and now the last event was at a super dusty, slippery track that had jumps with bad approach angles those kicked the arse of the SCT mile high. We had lot's of SCT:s running there, some tried there luck with the new standard setups and their ass kicked much more violently.
We tried to tune it out with different approaches and setups. We tried all the standard stuff for super low traction and went to Grey/Grey or Black/Grey with stock pistons and 30/27.5 Losi Oil which helped some but the rear was just bucking on some jump faces.
Earlier when lot's of guys complained about nose diving (which I or the others in our club haven't experienced) I was like this isn't a problem of our truck but now I have seen what certain jumps can do.
Other cars had less of problems on these jumps.

I would really like to see some pro-setups for low-med-high traction tracks and see especially the shock choices. I am totally lost on the reasoning behind Yellow/Pink springs the truck comes with now. You simply can't lower the front to 24-25 with them. I tried to help a fellow racer who bought his SCT recently.

dodger

Yeah, kinda agree with this, my truck came with pink springs front and rear, impossible to set the ride height @ 25mm, even with no pre load on the spring, had to buy some softer black front springs to get near to that ride height, also got some grey fronts to try as well.

JsK

iTrader: (10)

Stiffer rear springs, Yes the back ends will get a little looser and you may need
some changes for that but the springs cure 90% of the bucking problem. Right
now I am running Pink fronts with Kyosho Orange Rear.



You dont have the shock rod ends screwed on all the way, or you have Orings in between the cup and rod end. Nothing wrong with the springs.

Jgins13

Hey all,
Both of my inner rear hub ball bearings went out at the same time today. Not sure if due to basic wear, or something specific I did. I've been driving my truck for 2 months, approx 8-10 full battery packs each week. Is this a normal amount of time for these bearings to last, or should they last longer?

I run the HW4700 on 2S with a 16t pinion under most conditions. Recently I've been doing some on-road speed runs by putting a 18t pinion in (taking pauses when motor temps started getting high). I did try putting in a HW4000kv on 3S with a 13t pinion (final RPM's just slightly higher than the 4700 on 2S with a 16t), and did not reduce the current limiter from 65% (which is what I was running in the 2S setup).

Are the busted bearings due to a max RPM issue, an acceleration/3S issue (current limiter set to too high), or a 2 month heavy use normal wear issue (or something else)? What are the most common causes of fried ball bearings?

As an FYI, I'm still learning to drive the truck with some control on tracks (practice runs only), and no, I'm not looking to compete in ROAR sanctioned events (hence the 3S setup on a 4-pole HW).

plumslow

iTrader: (1)

3400 runs well on 3 cell. It lacks a little punch on the off road but has good speed on 2 cell. I ran the 3400 on an oval with 3 cell and it was right with the tekin 4300 on 2 cell if not a touch faster. Ran ~135 after 4 minutes. Have any of you tried the Orion 550 4000 4 pole? I heard it is a beast. It should be at twice the price of a HW 4700. I do think the 4700 is still the fastest motor I have tried yet.