Cain

iTrader: (294)

for the diff fluids from what I could gather looking at a variety of setups, seems most fall around 7-5-3 or 7-7-3. If really low bite maybe 5-5-3 or even 5-5-2 .

Good points mentioned by quite a few for the nose down issue. For me the thing that really solved it was the pistons change, but that was a lot due to the level of pack needed for the type of jumps I was on.

vintage Shu Cat

There is really only one large triple jump at the local track but, I also plan to run the SC Nats up at RC Madness and then the big race event in Maine and I'm sure the jumps will be higher and longer.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

for at least me, the 8 x 1.3 pistons really help when you had jumps that had a very abrupt face to them. something that when you hit them would compress the rear suspension in a manner to cause it to bottom out.

That combined with a stiffer spring rate worked well.

I think for a base setup, I really like 35W front, 3.8lb spring rate front, 30W rear, 2.7lb spring rate.

I use spring rate as I also use Hot Bodies springs too as they fit well and are a bit shorter. But you can find the Tekno equivalent on the chart.

I did try a soft setup of 30W front and 25W rear recently, slightly lighter springs but it wasn't enough I think for the type of jumps. probably be good for smaller stuff thoutgh.

tc5 man

I just added some more ride height to the front end and tryed not to throttle up right at the face of the jumps . Seemed to help with nose diving .

Im pretty sure though when you use a softer spring up front it may cause more nosediving inless you have the right oil and pistons .

Cain

iTrader: (294)

funny thing when I first had the issue with the new truck, I tried a few things as I only had stock pistons. this was on a carpet track that I think i still have video on via youtube.

In a pinch I thought maybe too stiff a front spring was causing too much weight transfer towards the rear, then get chassis slap, and hence nose over.

I went down in spring rate up front, and that actually helped but made handling on the rest of the track like poo.

was fun to have time to test it though. I miss that indoor carpet track.

vintage Shu Cat

I just ordered another set of springs and the pistons. I'm also gonna try the LCG motor mount just for poo and giggles.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Do you have or did you order a 17 or 18 tooth pinion? That will help keep the nose up or get it up if you need to correct.
13 is really small for that motor.

ba4ma

iTrader: (11)

Can anyone tell me which hudy set up station i need for the sct410?Also,which other parts or pieces will i need to purchase to make it work?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

I use the Hudy 1/10 TC station on mine because I had it, can't set toe unfortunately.
1/8 buggy station will be the correct station, you need to get the plastic Tekno 17mm hex set with the spacer to take up the gap.

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

If you wanna do it right and get the best you need the hudy part# HUD108856 that's the 1/8th off road setup tool with everything in it and u also want the Tekno 17mm aluminum hex set. The setup tool is 300 bucks and it's awesome, it's the one I have. Do not get the plastic Tekno 17mm hubs, everything in the hudy tool is aluminum and you don't want to screw aluminum onto plastic. Buy it once and buy it right.

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

+1

13 is much too small unless your tracks longest straight is 50 ft. The smallest I've ever gone on the SC with the 4600 is 15, and that was when our indoor track had a shortened straight ~100 ft.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

@wreckya
If you mean this hex he would have to pull the axles every time he wants to put his truck on the station and then put the stub axles back in when he's done. These would put his track out past 300mm.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

28mm front, 26mm rear -- though the front is more like 27.5, I did bring it down a bit. It'll take a hint of steering away, but I had so much already it worked out great.

Droop is at 102 front, 118 rear.

I also liked that I didn't have to put more spring or height in the rear since that'd take away rear traction. I was able to take it away from the end that could afford it.

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

Yea I use those and just swap em out when I do my setup. Are u saying leave the plastic 17mm ones on and switch to SCT rims with the 17mm hexes?

fq06

iTrader: (12)

No, just for using the station.
The plastic ones only last for a pack or two on the track. Not the hex part, the spacer collar thing pops the head off if you do more than drive in a straight line down the street.