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Old 05-18-2014, 10:16 AM
  #22021  
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Last edited by mkl; 05-18-2014 at 10:17 AM. Reason: double post.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:28 AM
  #22022  
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I think for a 2s setup the 2 shorter straps are plenty--I've been running my SCT 410 fine with them.
Couple weeks earlier I would of said the 2 shorter ones for the EB48 were fine too. That is until I broke both the shorter ones in a bad crash during a race. I finished the race & did not notice it til back in the pits. I actually broke both battery straps. The only thing holding my battery in place was the body.--Actually broke the rear body post too. I finished the weekend using the 1 longer strap. In reality you're probably fine using just the 2 shorter ones. I was for over a year til this one bad crash.---Funny I did not break any other part on the car. TEKNO DURABILITY!
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:56 AM
  #22023  
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Put some velcro on the battery tray and the bottom of the battery. Then 2 straps are more than plenty. I ran with two straps for a year in the Tekno SC.
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Old 05-18-2014, 11:02 AM
  #22024  
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A lot of it depends on the battery size. I run all three because my battery can still slide front to back in the tray if theres no long strap. Id rather take the extra 2 seconds and strap it in good than have my battery slamming around in the tray.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:07 PM
  #22025  
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
A lot of it depends on the battery size. I run all three because my battery can still slide front to back in the tray if theres no long strap. Id rather take the extra 2 seconds and strap it in good than have my battery slamming around in the tray.
^ that

It really all depends on you, if you run different sizes of batteries, etc. I run three straps on the EB48 and 2 (side/side, not the front/back) on the SCT410.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:33 PM
  #22026  
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
A lot of it depends on the battery size. I run all three because my battery can still slide front to back in the tray if theres no long strap. Id rather take the extra 2 seconds and strap it in good than have my battery slamming around in the tray.
An advantage of not running the long strap is while racing if you need more oversteer you can land on your nose or if you are looking for understeer, land on your tail
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:50 PM
  #22027  
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I was thinking of running one short and the long one. I might try it for practice, see what happens. probably leave all three for the EB.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:55 PM
  #22028  
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Our tray is designed so that the straps are what is securing the battery to the car. That's not to say that running less than three straps won't work but we won't recommend it. And if you must run only two straps I would suggest one long and one short.

On some of our lightened trucks we cut the tray all the way down to a flat piece of plastic and never had any issues, but we were running 3 straps.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:55 PM
  #22029  
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That's' what I've ran since I got it, one long, one short.

Last edited by fq06; 05-18-2014 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 05-18-2014, 01:22 PM
  #22030  
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I only run the 2 short straps n my truck. Also to keep the battery from sliding I shoe gooed a piece of foam at the front of the battery tray to keep my battery from sliding front to back. Works great on my outdoor & indoor trucks.
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:54 PM
  #22031  
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One thing I am curious about that someone may be able to answer, I still have my Tekno setup with the 4 oring setup on the shock shafts as its an original SCT410, on those, can you use the 2 oring setup instead and should I compensate for this difference with sway rate increase? (running 2.3mm front, 2.2 rear right now)
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:36 PM
  #22032  
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Originally Posted by Cain
One thing I am curious about that someone may be able to answer, I still have my Tekno setup with the 4 oring setup on the shock shafts as its an original SCT410, on those, can you use the 2 oring setup instead and should I compensate for this difference with sway rate increase? (running 2.3mm front, 2.2 rear right now)
I know the newer bushing took the place of two of the orings, and the updated setup calls for running 2 still on the shaft, but running 0 is ok as well, so it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:41 PM
  #22033  
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
I know the newer bushing took the place of two of the orings, and the updated setup calls for running 2 still on the shaft, but running 0 is ok as well, so it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Thanks. I give that a look I think.

Hey do you have your setup from the motodome? figure conditions there are in general very loose, maybe some stuff I can get from that.
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:27 PM
  #22034  
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Default tekno sct410 setup help

Hey guys i just got a tekno sct410 and wanna know what setup you guys are using for outdoor clay tracks put how rough how much traction exc and get some ideas flowing on setup from stock like what shock pistons are you guys using for what condition track or shock or diff fluid what swaybars and so forth any help will be much appreciated
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:28 AM
  #22035  
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Originally Posted by bLamey470
Ok so I just rebuilt my car fresh diffs cleaned and oiled all the bearings I kept my shimming the same on the diffs from side to side now when I let off the throttle from the front diff area it sounds like it is clicking down but I don't get why I didn't change the shimming at all... Any ideas

And how's this for battery all the way back
I highly recommend not wiring the ESC that way, doesn't leave enough slack for chassis flex. When I did that the wires pushed and pulled on the tabs till the end of the motor unglued. Also makes it kind of a pain to get to the on board ESC controls. I suggest flipping it so the posts face the servo and run the wires straight up.

EDIT: It may be ok since it looks like your running the 540 can, but something to watch out for. Also if the post comes loose vs. the motor it will probably short out the ESC and burn it up.
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