17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
02-13-2014, 04:48 PM
I have a used roller on the way with eb48 lightened chassis, lightweight center shaft, cnc rear hinge pin holder, angled rear diff case and 1.4 shock pistons. Knowing that I will obsessively spend money on this thing like I usually do on new rc's, looking for suggestions on how to spend the next $125 or so. Shock pistons? CF towers? Shock seals? Anything that could significantly impact performance on an outdoor 1/8 track?
Definitely an aluminum servo horn, maybe a spare rear gearbox, in case the one on it was part of the questionable batch that was breaking(Tekno will take care of you if it does), and maybe some shock springs depending on what it comes with. Honestly, spend the money on maintinence items if you must just to have on hand.....Diff/pinion bearings, inner diff shims/seals/gaskets, a spare diff case, a couple different motor pinions, maybe a spur gear, maybe replacement pivot balls(I prefer steele as they barely even wear), rod ends, shock seals, shock bushing/guides.......I've been running it for quite some time, and my primary expense is for tuning items(springs, fluids, etc.) Holds up better than any other I've had, and very well equipped right out of the box.
02-13-2014, 04:50 PM
I moved ackerman up 1, set front toe to zero, and moved rear shock on tower back 1. Loose rear seemed a little better. Anti-squat moved to middle.
I changed rear oil to 20W and made big difference.
Then shortened rear link and moved down 1 on tower. Not really sure that helped. Don't think it hurt either.
Changed front spring from yellow to green and went from 30W to 25W. That seemed to help jumps a little more and maybe even loose rear.
Rear still gets away from me occasionally and a little squirly in turns. (usually high speed) but it's more controllable now. Couple other racers mentioned at end of night how much faster I looked.
Heres my latest setup. Suggestions welcomed.
I changed rear oil to 20W and made big difference.
Then shortened rear link and moved down 1 on tower. Not really sure that helped. Don't think it hurt either.
Changed front spring from yellow to green and went from 30W to 25W. That seemed to help jumps a little more and maybe even loose rear.
Rear still gets away from me occasionally and a little squirly in turns. (usually high speed) but it's more controllable now. Couple other racers mentioned at end of night how much faster I looked.
Heres my latest setup. Suggestions welcomed.
After you found your setting for front kickup then think about changing the rear camber link how it was in 3-b.
Last edited by fq06; 02-13-2014 at 06:22 PM.
02-13-2014, 06:52 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
hey guys. i have a tekin rx8 and a tekin HD 3400kv motor combo. ive never ran it outdoors on large track. its has the stock spur. what would be a good place to start with the pinion. for socal guys im talking about thunder alley/ proline and rev. thankyou
02-13-2014, 08:05 PM
2 or 3 cell?
02-13-2014, 08:23 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
well im racing and it only allows a 2s.
02-13-2014, 10:13 PM
Anybody know of anybody selling a nice roller? If so please PM me
02-13-2014, 11:01 PM
well the reason i asked is that i literally don't know of anyone that races that motor on 2S (all of the people i run with go for the 4300). especially since tekin doesn't even make that kv smartguy. so i'll assume that you mean 3600kv.
but if you have to and assuming you mean 3600kv, i'd start with an 18 or 19T.
but if you have to and assuming you mean 3600kv, i'd start with an 18 or 19T.
02-14-2014, 05:10 AM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Yeah, not sure the soft pink rear springs would work well with any piston but the fiorini pistons.
Green rear is the next step up and is what I was running with the Tekno 8x1.3/1.4 pistons matched with green front.
From what I can tell from the multitude of spring combos I've tried on this, if you keep about a 1.7 in/lb spread between the front & rear, your springs are balanced. From there just choose how stiff you want your setup.
Green springs had great balance... 1.7 spread. Now Durango white/black front spring and Tekno pink spring. Again, perfect balance and it happens to be a 1.7 in/lb spread.
Some people like a smaller spread giving more spring rate to the rear, but many have said that the greens gave very good flight and handling.
Green rear is the next step up and is what I was running with the Tekno 8x1.3/1.4 pistons matched with green front.
From what I can tell from the multitude of spring combos I've tried on this, if you keep about a 1.7 in/lb spread between the front & rear, your springs are balanced. From there just choose how stiff you want your setup.
Green springs had great balance... 1.7 spread. Now Durango white/black front spring and Tekno pink spring. Again, perfect balance and it happens to be a 1.7 in/lb spread.
Some people like a smaller spread giving more spring rate to the rear, but many have said that the greens gave very good flight and handling.
02-14-2014, 05:54 AM
Tech Adept
I'm having a real hard time getting rid of all the rebound when running plastic caps with bladders. I reamed out the side bleed holes and push the shaft all the way up (giggidy) and let it bleed out, but then when tightening the cap down the shaft always pushes out.
Do I need to run them vented when running bladders? I didn't want to open it up and allowing more dirt into the shocks.
Do I need to run them vented when running bladders? I didn't want to open it up and allowing more dirt into the shocks.
you have to drill the vent out in the cap, put the cap on, then if you don't want to run vented, just screw the plug into the vent hole
02-14-2014, 05:58 AM
i think i know the truck you bought (smurph's?). it was setup with matt wolters setup i believe. there wasn't a lot of time on that truck so you shouldn't need shock seals or anything replaced because of wear. CF towers are nice, removes weight up high. as far as the pistons, i'd wait and run the truck first and see how you like it before going that route.
02-14-2014, 06:42 AM
I got my SCT410 about a month ago, and have realized that Tekno packed Pink and Yellow shocks in my box. The parts list says these are both designated rear springs. In the kit, the Pinks came in the Front bag and the Yellows in the Rear bag, so I installed them that way. Any reason why they might do that?
I have since gotten Green springs, but those are designated rears too. Should I order springs designated for the front?
Also, what do the first two numbers mean? e.g., 1.4 x 11.0T, 85mm.
I have since gotten Green springs, but those are designated rears too. Should I order springs designated for the front?
Also, what do the first two numbers mean? e.g., 1.4 x 11.0T, 85mm.
02-14-2014, 06:46 AM
But then I have some weight strips in the back so I think that probably offsets some of the weight reduction... just shifts more of it to the rear.
But then that's shifting more of the weight balance to the rear AND I'm running less spring rate in the rear vs the front than what was/is common wisdom.
I do think the fiorini's play a big part though in being able to run such a low spring rate. But it drives sooooo good. Best its driven since I got it (somewhere around August). The rear end is stuck like never before and can still turn in like a 2wd buggy
I got my SCT410 about a month ago, and have realized that Tekno packed Pink and Yellow shocks in my box. The parts list says these are both designated rear springs. In the kit, the Pinks came in the Front bag and the Yellows in the Rear bag, so I installed them that way. Any reason why they might do that?
I have since gotten Green springs, but those are designated rears too. Should I order springs designated for the front?
Also, what do the first two numbers mean? e.g., 1.4 x 11.0T, 85mm.
I have since gotten Green springs, but those are designated rears too. Should I order springs designated for the front?
Also, what do the first two numbers mean? e.g., 1.4 x 11.0T, 85mm.
The pink is a front, unless it's the same length as the yellow rear
Here's a chart to show you where that comes in against other springs. Spring lengths and in/lb rate... not an exact science, but better than guess work.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...ring-chart.jpg
I think your going in the right direction with the green rear spring. Drive it and see what you do and don't like about it.
Last edited by fq06; 02-14-2014 at 07:54 AM.
02-14-2014, 07:02 AM
Thank you very much, for the spring chart info and your advice. I'll be sure to test later today. Pink is front. It measures 70mm.
02-14-2014, 07:17 AM
No problem.
So you had pink front / yellow rear that's a 1.26 spread between the rates (3.83/2.57).
Now going to green rear you have a 1.4 spread (3.83/2.43), better?
I would be curious to hear if anyone at your track runs Tekno and has a green front spring that you can try for a run to get you to a 1.7 spread (4.15/2.43) if that improves the handling.
Just my own experience from trying many spring combos, choose a rate that's high or low, that's personal preference and track dependent... but keeping a 1.7 in/lb spread between them is a good spring balance. IMO.
So you had pink front / yellow rear that's a 1.26 spread between the rates (3.83/2.57).
Now going to green rear you have a 1.4 spread (3.83/2.43), better?
I would be curious to hear if anyone at your track runs Tekno and has a green front spring that you can try for a run to get you to a 1.7 spread (4.15/2.43) if that improves the handling.
Just my own experience from trying many spring combos, choose a rate that's high or low, that's personal preference and track dependent... but keeping a 1.7 in/lb spread between them is a good spring balance. IMO.
02-14-2014, 07:32 AM
Thanks. I'll give it a try, hopefully Saturday. But, I definately think we are going in the right direction. It's about the best it's been on this track. They will be doing the monthly rebuild Sunday so hopefully that doesn't throw everything off. Usually first week or two after rebuild, it's very damp/wet and a lot more grip than what it has right before rebuild.
