17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
02-13-2014, 08:06 AM
The track I race at has no rear bumper rule, no front bumper rule, no minimum weight rule, no maximum width rule...as a matter of fact, the only "rule: that gets strictly enforced is "pay before you practice"
I'm a little skeptical about your claim that "most" tracks require front and rear bumpers. But maybe you travel more than I do.
I'm a little skeptical about your claim that "most" tracks require front and rear bumpers. But maybe you travel more than I do.
The point of the bumpers is so you can make contact with other trucks without getting tangled up.
02-13-2014, 09:32 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Congrats on ordering a BA sct 
When I order directly from TeknoRC it usually takes three days for the parts to arrive at my door from CA to FL. Ordering directly from teknoRC also guarantees that you'll get A++ customer service plus the latest and greatest goodies.
Did you order any optional parts?
When I order directly from TeknoRC it usually takes three days for the parts to arrive at my door from CA to FL. Ordering directly from teknoRC also guarantees that you'll get A++ customer service plus the latest and greatest goodies.Did you order any optional parts?
02-13-2014, 09:33 AM
I'm having a real hard time getting rid of all the rebound when running plastic caps with bladders. I reamed out the side bleed holes and push the shaft all the way up (giggidy) and let it bleed out, but then when tightening the cap down the shaft always pushes out.
Do I need to run them vented when running bladders? I didn't want to open it up and allowing more dirt into the shocks.
Do I need to run them vented when running bladders? I didn't want to open it up and allowing more dirt into the shocks.
02-13-2014, 09:37 AM
Originally Posted by TeknoWebsite;
TKR5016B – Gearbox (rear, angled, 5x13x4mm bearing)
*Requires new larger 5x13x4mm bearings (TKRBB05134).
*Requires new larger 5x13x4mm bearings (TKRBB05134).
02-13-2014, 09:57 AM
Make sure and run the front and rear brace at least and re check the ride height due to the lighter chassis and that's about all you have to change when switching chassis.
02-13-2014, 10:40 AM
02-13-2014, 11:06 AM
02-13-2014, 11:11 AM
I'm having a real hard time getting rid of all the rebound when running plastic caps with bladders. I reamed out the side bleed holes and push the shaft all the way up (giggidy) and let it bleed out, but then when tightening the cap down the shaft always pushes out.
Do I need to run them vented when running bladders? I didn't want to open it up and allowing more dirt into the shocks.
Do I need to run them vented when running bladders? I didn't want to open it up and allowing more dirt into the shocks.
02-13-2014, 11:14 AM
I'm going to install the bleed screw on top so i can seal it back up after the shock build and see if that fixes the rebound issue.
02-13-2014, 12:18 PM
No it wont fix your problem. Let the shocks sit for at least 10min, just to eliminate the chance of air bubbles. You have too much oil in the shocks after putting the bladder on. You should push the bladder in with your forefinger and just lift the edge a little bit to let excess oil out.
02-13-2014, 01:31 PM
Loose Rear
My two cents...
Try one at a time in this order
Forward ackerman hole.
Rear shock oil @ 20wt and rear shock back to hole 3
Front toe closer to 0°
I run 2.4 sway f&r, maybe before you buy to try swap your f&r sways so stiffer is in the front. If you are spinning coming onto the straight the rear sway is too soft... may need 2.4 & 2.4.
Try one at a time in this order
Forward ackerman hole.
Rear shock oil @ 20wt and rear shock back to hole 3
Front toe closer to 0°
I run 2.4 sway f&r, maybe before you buy to try swap your f&r sways so stiffer is in the front. If you are spinning coming onto the straight the rear sway is too soft... may need 2.4 & 2.4.
I changed rear oil to 20W and made big difference.
Then shortened rear link and moved down 1 on tower. Not really sure that helped. Don't think it hurt either.
Changed front spring from yellow to green and went from 30W to 25W. That seemed to help jumps a little more and maybe even loose rear.
Rear still gets away from me occasionally and a little squirly in turns. (usually high speed) but it's more controllable now. Couple other racers mentioned at end of night how much faster I looked.
Heres my latest setup. Suggestions welcomed.
Last edited by Matt1970; 02-13-2014 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention also moved anti-squat to middle.
02-13-2014, 03:19 PM
Yes, it WILL likely fix your problem. I've been through the same thing. The air on top of the bladder gets compressed and won't allow zero rebound, especially if you're building/bleeding with the bladder fitted into the cap first. Drill the vents, build/bleed the shocks with the vent hole open, and with it still compressed, THEN screw in the screw with O-ring(unless you want vented). It worked for me. When I used to build the other way, putting the bladder on the shock body first, it wasn't as bad, but since I started building/bleeding with the bladder fitted into the cap, I found it much easier and probably will never go back, you just need to assemble it vented as I described to get zero rebound.
Last edited by kevinpratt823; 02-13-2014 at 03:55 PM.
02-13-2014, 04:11 PM
Hi there,
I just have a quick question that maybe someone can answer here. I been thinking of getting the 410 and then the light weight conversion for buggy light and I was wondering if anyone has done it and what weight did the buggy come in at with 2 cell and an SCT setup with motor and a speed control. I kinda want to know the difference between doing this and maybe just getting an eb48.2. I heard at one time the buggy was 8oz heavier then the SCT. My current 1/8 e buggy is a pig and there isn't much I can do to put it on a diet and loose 6oz to be legal.
Thanks for your time
I just have a quick question that maybe someone can answer here. I been thinking of getting the 410 and then the light weight conversion for buggy light and I was wondering if anyone has done it and what weight did the buggy come in at with 2 cell and an SCT setup with motor and a speed control. I kinda want to know the difference between doing this and maybe just getting an eb48.2. I heard at one time the buggy was 8oz heavier then the SCT. My current 1/8 e buggy is a pig and there isn't much I can do to put it on a diet and loose 6oz to be legal.
Thanks for your time
02-13-2014, 04:11 PM
I have a used roller on the way with eb48 lightened chassis, lightweight center shaft, cnc rear hinge pin holder, angled rear diff case and 1.4 shock pistons. Knowing that I will obsessively spend money on this thing like I usually do on new rc's, looking for suggestions on how to spend the next $125 or so. Shock pistons? CF towers? Shock seals? Anything that could significantly impact performance on an outdoor 1/8 track?
02-13-2014, 04:43 PM
I have a used roller on the way with eb48 lightened chassis, lightweight center shaft, cnc rear hinge pin holder, angled rear diff case and 1.4 shock pistons. Knowing that I will obsessively spend money on this thing like I usually do on new rc's, looking for suggestions on how to spend the next $125 or so. Shock pistons? CF towers? Shock seals? Anything that could significantly impact performance on an outdoor 1/8 track?
