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Old 01-17-2014, 04:01 AM
  #18451  
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ScottKelly, check the manufacturer's specs on both the motor and esc that you're using. If they're not both rated to handle 3s, only bad things can happen.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:30 AM
  #18452  
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Originally Posted by 5errated
Just an observation, but my manual says the "stock" front spring is 6048 (black) and rear spring is 6030 (pink).

My sct410 kit came with pink front, and yellow rear. that's one stiffer for front and two stiff for the rear. Is this a recent change they made to address the nose down issue in jumps and/or the stock setup not being stiff enough?

I actually ordered green for front, and orange for rear, which should arrive tomorrow, so it's nice to know stock setup might actually be ok, and if I want it one notch stiffer front and back, I'll have them on hand. Works out in the end!

Let me know which springs yours came with, I'm curious!
Mine came with pink fronts and yellow rears as well just finishing the kit now!


Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Also have a question if anyone is running a lower kv motor on 3s. Like a Pro4HD 3000kv on 3s. I'm currently running the HW 4700 and it's power is awesome, but run time even with bigger batteries sux. I mean, plenty of run time for racing, but I want to get real run time for practice, similar to running my ebuggy. I figure if I run 3s and gear down, I can get tons of run time for practice. On my 7000mah 2s packs, I'm getting about 10 min which is way more than enough for racing, but for practice, let's face it, it's just not enough time on the stand and I end up running my 2wd more often just because you can stay out for so long. So I'd like to hear what other people are doing if they're running 3s. Again, power isn't my concern, I'll gear down so I'm no faster than anyone else on 2s, I'm strictly looking for a way to get more run time.
I am going to be running a Pro4HD 3000kv on 3s with the RX8 Gen2. It will be my full time motor set up but I am doing exactly what you are trying to accomplish. Going to be running 4300mah 40c batteries. Shark over on rcshortcourse turned me onto it because that is what he runs for practice sessions but with the Pro4 3300kv. Smoother, runs more efficient, cooler, and more battery life
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:48 AM
  #18453  
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Originally Posted by 5errated
Just an observation, but my manual says the "stock" front spring is 6048 (black) and rear spring is 6030 (pink).

My sct410 kit came with pink front, and yellow rear. that's one stiffer for front and two stiff for the rear. Is this a recent change they made to address the nose down issue in jumps and/or the stock setup not being stiff enough?

I actually ordered green for front, and orange for rear, which should arrive tomorrow, so it's nice to know stock setup might actually be ok, and if I want it one notch stiffer front and back, I'll have them on hand. Works out in the end!

Let me know which springs yours came with, I'm curious!

Mine came with pink/yellow also. Running change. Build the shocks with the
kit oil, Vented/bladder ,zero rebound and try it. Mine is super easy to drive.

It was like 20 deg when we took this video. for being as cold as it was I think the truck
was doing well.

https://vimeo.com/81377809

Last edited by JsK; 01-17-2014 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:22 AM
  #18454  
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I love this truck! I have had mine since they first came out and I just noticed that I don't really need a lot of spairs like I used to with my old truck.


Last edited by kjohnsiii; 01-17-2014 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:41 AM
  #18455  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Anyone using the Proline Body mount system on their Tekno? If so, which did you use and did you need to do any modding to make it work? I'm tired of losing body clips lol
http://prolineracing.com/extended-body-mounts-sc/
Scott, I've been using them for the last month and it works great for the Tekno. I would love to show you but OCRC isn't really a Tekno friendly place while the Reedy place is in town.

Also, the 3s battery has been very popular for awhile and we would all be running it if racing rules made 3s the standard for our tanks we call trucks.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:54 AM
  #18456  
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Originally Posted by JsK
Mine came with pink/yellow also. Running change. Build the shocks with the
kit oil, Vented/bladder ,zero rebound and try it. Mine is super easy to drive.

It was like 20 deg when we took this video. for being as cold as it was I think the truck
was doing well.

https://vimeo.com/81377809
Mine came with pink/green ordered from tower just before xmas...I wonder if I just got a bit older stock. I love how Tekno just sees something is working better and just starts adding it to the kit. Surprised they havent started to add the very popular 8 x 1.3 pistons instead of the 10 x 1.2 though im sure thats next.

On another note...had a chance to completely read the Hudy setup guide last week and wow was that thing informational. And to have the pictures right there so U could see exactly what it was referring to really works well in helping to understand what everything does as far as tuning your car. This guide should be required reading for all rc owners racing or bashing...or if u just want to learn how IFS/IRS work and tune. I recommend reading it if u havent already.
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:10 AM
  #18457  
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Chuck, that is awesome news! Keep on trucking! hammer down!
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:42 AM
  #18458  
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I would like to change to 3S also - but with so many 2S bats and 4S for Ebuggy - i really think i need to stay with either of those. Anyone running 4S and a T8?
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:02 AM
  #18459  
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Originally Posted by JsK
Mine came with pink/yellow also. Running change. Build the shocks with the
kit oil, Vented/bladder ,zero rebound and try it. Mine is super easy to drive.

It was like 20 deg when we took this video. for being as cold as it was I think the truck
was doing well.

https://vimeo.com/81377809
Thanks I've been wanting to see the new box setup in action. I'd rather have a little nose down than nose up especially outdoors.

You should of cut off the last 2 seconds.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:29 AM
  #18460  
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Originally Posted by shaggy2112

On another note...had a chance to completely read the Hudy setup guide last week and wow was that thing informational. And to have the pictures right there so U could see exactly what it was referring to really works well in helping to understand what everything does as far as tuning your car. This guide should be required reading for all rc owners racing or bashing...or if u just want to learn how IFS/IRS work and tune. I recommend reading it if u havent already.
Also check out the JQ's THE guide. Along with the Hudy guide you should be able to get your cars dialed in!
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:00 AM
  #18461  
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Originally Posted by Nick@Jet
I would like to change to 3S also - but with so many 2S bats and 4S for Ebuggy - i really think i need to stay with either of those. Anyone running 4S and a T8?
If you ever want to race in a mainstream 4x4 SCT class you would need a 2s system and no bigger than a 550 can. But if just bashing or not worried about battery limits I would prob just go with a standard eBuggy system like the T8 on 4s. That way your ready for full-on ebuggy if you ever wanted to do the conversion. It would just be a lot of torque to handle.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:08 PM
  #18462  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
If you ever want to race in a mainstream 4x4 SCT class you would need a 2s system and no bigger than a 550 can. But if just bashing or not worried about battery limits I would prob just go with a standard eBuggy system like the T8 on 4s. That way your ready for full-on ebuggy if you ever wanted to do the conversion. It would just be a lot of torque to handle.
if it's just club level racing, they aren't quite as strict. the closest track to me allows 2s only, but no motor restrictions.

so i'd says call your local track, and see what their rules are. stick within those and you'll be good, unless you really think you'll go pro and need to fit roar guidelines
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:11 PM
  #18463  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
Scott, I've been using them for the last month and it works great for the Tekno. I would love to show you but OCRC isn't really a Tekno friendly place while the Reedy place is in town.

Also, the 3s battery has been very popular for awhile and we would all be running it if racing rules made 3s the standard for our tanks we call trucks.
Thanks James, I was thinking about getting just the set screws and caps set then drill the set screws into the stock posts. Is that what you did? Also, yeah I think this class really needs to be 3s friendly it's just too hard on batteries and you dont get enough run time using 2s batts. I think I'm gonna do it and make the switch. Honestly it's my favorite car to run and it's frustrating not getting to run it very long which is part of the reason why I've been MIA for a few months.I dont do big races and I dont think anyone would care at club races since I'd be no faster than anyone on 2s with a lower kv motor. Now to go order some batts and a motor! Lol btw James hope you're doing well bud, hope to see you in a few weeks after the Reedy's over.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:12 PM
  #18464  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Anyone using the Proline Body mount system on their Tekno? If so, which did you use and did you need to do any modding to make it work? I'm tired of losing body clips lol
http://prolineracing.com/extended-body-mounts-sc/
I use these on all my bodies, never lose a body clip, and they're always right there when you're ready......
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ner-Set-Blue-4
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:46 PM
  #18465  
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anybody tested a lower kv tekin pro4hd on 3s to a 2s on pro4 4300hd?
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