17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
10-21-2013, 02:03 AM
Is everyone running kyosho or tekno greens all around?
Last edited by honda237; 10-21-2013 at 07:39 AM.
10-21-2013, 04:06 AM
Also figured I would share my latest experience with sc bodies this time it's a jc hi flow that I heavily vented and I am very very happy with the results. This will be the body I use from now on it had withstood lots of abuse and flows better than any other body. I know this much venting isn't roar legal. I know it seems like it wouldn't hold up with this much cut out but I have been pleasantly surprised its very durable.
But honestly, I prefered my FTW body for the way it "drove".
10-21-2013, 07:13 AM
Had a great weekend with my BCE chassis equipped Tekno SCT410 at the Annual Octoberfest race at CVR in Madera, CA. Took the TQ and win with a time that would have put me in the Nitro buggy A main and TQ of the electric 1/8th buggy class. Thanks BCE and Tekno for a great handling truck.
10-21-2013, 07:56 AM
@Gvm23 Yea I like there center diff and front steering post add-ons but for price $50 bucks could get me another lipo lol..
@Mydudrevo.. Yea maybe its a traxxas thing but customization is always an extra pick me up when there is nothing else needed for the truck .. I'm so used to my slash having to need extra parts here and there that with this kit.. all I can really do is a paint mod.. I wanted to see how it turned out because I know a guy that will do some anodizing for a decent price. Later on I may invest in getting all my alum parts anodized professionally.. For the most part the chassis was really easy and clean once complete, I had to grind/ scuff it up good for the white base, and then top'd it with the anodized red from advanced auto parts.. Its really on there too so I'm not too worried about scratching.. I didn't do the bottom of the chassis, just slapped a carbon fiber chassis skin on it..
@Mydudrevo.. Yea maybe its a traxxas thing but customization is always an extra pick me up when there is nothing else needed for the truck .. I'm so used to my slash having to need extra parts here and there that with this kit.. all I can really do is a paint mod.. I wanted to see how it turned out because I know a guy that will do some anodizing for a decent price. Later on I may invest in getting all my alum parts anodized professionally.. For the most part the chassis was really easy and clean once complete, I had to grind/ scuff it up good for the white base, and then top'd it with the anodized red from advanced auto parts.. Its really on there too so I'm not too worried about scratching.. I didn't do the bottom of the chassis, just slapped a carbon fiber chassis skin on it..
10-21-2013, 08:58 AM
I run Tekno Greens and I personally have run on both indoor high bite and outdoor medium loose and the only change I make is tires, Barcodes,Handlebar LTD, to Cityblocks, Handlebar STD and I really like the feel of the truck on both surfaces.
10-21-2013, 09:21 AM
Fronts:
Kyo Green 3.68
Tekno Green 4.15
Rears:
Kyo Green 3.18
Tekno Green 2.43
My current setup for our highbite track is:
Fronts:
HB Grey (4.1) 32.5 Losi Wt 8x1.3 pistons
Rears:
Kyosho Yellow (2.9) 32.5 Losi Wt 8x1.3 pistons
10-21-2013, 09:23 AM
It drove well with stock venting as well I just did this to see how much structural integrity it would sacrifice for great flow and that was the part I was surprised about was how strong it was even with the back cut out.
10-21-2013, 09:38 AM
Ok I will pick up a kyo front green also, that way if I need to make it softer I can. I don't run on highbite tracks.
10-21-2013, 09:58 AM
For outdoor hard pack med traction, I was running pretty much same setup other then running 3.1 spring rate for the Rear.
10-21-2013, 10:15 AM
I like the idea. Assuming you don't need the fan, just make sure you have plenty of slack in the wires for chassis flex. I broke the back end of my Pro4HD by having the wires too short and running on a track with huge jumps. (Wicked Weekend, same as PNB ramps)
Last edited by Mizchief; 10-21-2013 at 02:17 PM.
10-21-2013, 11:58 AM
I think I'm gonna install my ESC like yours and run the fan. Many people install the ESC like in the manual and that's with the ESC posts on the other side near the servo, which makes you run the wires up and over it to the motor. I like the wires coming off the ESC horizontally instead of vertical. It also allows the battery wires to be closer to the rear which is where I want my battery posts to be. Thanks for posting this pic man.
10-21-2013, 02:12 PM
I have a set of the rear arm mud guards that I would like to put on SCT410. I did a search and it looks like you have to trim the mud guard a bit so it doesn't rub the wheel.
Does anyone know how much needs to be trimmed off the mud guard so it doesn't rub the wheel?
Also, what size screw is needed for the mud guards? 3mm X ?
Thanks guys!
Eddy
Does anyone know how much needs to be trimmed off the mud guard so it doesn't rub the wheel?
Also, what size screw is needed for the mud guards? 3mm X ?
Thanks guys!
Eddy
10-21-2013, 02:15 PM
I'm running the Kyo's green all around, feels great for my track. During the summer it was so hot out we had to water the hard packed red clay track twice each round, so depeding on the order I would be either damp and muddy to thick fine dust and they worked well in all of those conditions. Used 8 x 1.3's and I think it was 32.5/30 AE oils. or 30/27.5 I forget.
10-21-2013, 02:34 PM
I have the angled diff case on its way along with the straight cut gears and I was curious, does the pinion still need a washer shim on the inside bearing (interior diff case)
10-21-2013, 02:43 PM
I thought I read the mud guards needed to be trimmed 1/2". Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks for your help!!
