5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
01-12-2012, 06:26 PM
Yes, there are those that do it. I have no idea as to what pinion they run, but I have seen guys that run that combo at the track. I would start with a 14 pinion and see what happens. The rtr is a 3500 kv motor just like the trx....(14 stock). See if it can turn that pinion. It isn't super fast, but it does do the job.
01-12-2012, 06:26 PM
01-12-2012, 06:28 PM
While i'm not the fastest over all I'm pretty good at setting up in the turns for passing, if you get a T-boner on your tail, I setup like I'm taking the outside->inside->outside line, then break extra hard early in the corner, let the losi over shoot the middle line, then out accelerate him as he tries to get that brick to spin around and catch up.
01-12-2012, 06:34 PM
On that note, what about thrust grease? Looking at the pic on amain, looks just like what I got (ACERGoo) On my truck the little disc with the balls in it that are the most inner part of the slipper shaft don't turn inside the disc, an I had never greased it before I saw to do so in the center diff instructions.
01-12-2012, 06:36 PM
01-12-2012, 06:37 PM
On that note, what about thrust grease? Looking at the pic on amain, looks just like what I got (ACERGoo) On my truck the little disc with the balls in it that are the most inner part of the slipper shaft don't turn inside the disc, an I had never greased it before I saw to do so in the center diff instructions.
01-12-2012, 06:39 PM
It's hobbytown, I was surprised they had anything close. There is another smaller track/shop nearby, but no one answered and it was getting close to closing time for them. Probably going up there tomorrow as is for a little Friday night ad-hoc bash racing. They are big on on-road stuff so I bet they have it and the 7k diff fluid I need.
01-12-2012, 06:44 PM
01-12-2012, 07:50 PM
Front diff removal
If you use the Quick Diff Removal Guide posted a few pages back on the front diff, be sure to also remove the ball studs for the camber link before yanking the tower off and breaking the holes on the chassis like I did.
01-12-2012, 07:51 PM
Edit: and if you're using shims, the studs aren't in the plastic at the chassis anyway.
01-12-2012, 08:25 PM
The shocks and diff are preassembled in both the kit and the RTR. (At least, they were pre-assembled in my kit, but that was 1st batch...the manual has been updated since then, so maybe the contents of the kit have changed as well)
Just make sure that whatever your situation is with how the shocks arrive (completely apart, or pre-assembled and filled with shock oil) take them apart, clean them, locktite the piston screw, and let the locktite set! Personally, since I don't have to worry about having my truck apart and back together in a day, any time I re-do my shocks, I let the locktite set overnight. If you cover it with shock oil as soon as you assemble it, the loctite will not set properly.
Just make sure that whatever your situation is with how the shocks arrive (completely apart, or pre-assembled and filled with shock oil) take them apart, clean them, locktite the piston screw, and let the locktite set! Personally, since I don't have to worry about having my truck apart and back together in a day, any time I re-do my shocks, I let the locktite set overnight. If you cover it with shock oil as soon as you assemble it, the loctite will not set properly.
You've been asking questions that took a simple Forum search since you started posting in the thread. IE: not reading 1000 pages.
The Answer to your Question is :PAGE ONE:
The Answer to your Question is :PAGE ONE:
As with any RC, never assume that the kid in china putting it together based on a template and 30mins of training can do a better job than you. Take apart anything pre-built and re do it. If you got the kit, then it's the diffs and shocks, if you got the RTR, follow the diff removal guide re-posted a few pages back to get at and reassemble the diffs same with the shocks (may want to go emulsion if rtr is bladder not sure what the setup is) and make sure the pinion screw and motor mount screws have loctite.
01-12-2012, 08:45 PM
I'm kinda pissed at my LHS guys, I'm good friends with them so not big deal, but called up asking if they had ball diff grease specifically, said they did, when I got there they tried to sell me some HPI heavy duty gear grease, or some marine grease. Ended up buying the HPI anyway and going to see if it's much diffrent that what I already had.
I know it's hard to describe, but what makes the ball grease different front the regular stuff? Is it thinner or thicker or just less slick than normal?
I know it's hard to describe, but what makes the ball grease different front the regular stuff? Is it thinner or thicker or just less slick than normal?
Try to hunt down some Schumacher dif lube. tenacious as gorilla snot...
01-12-2012, 08:54 PM
Looks GREAT!
Sal
01-12-2012, 09:00 PM
On that note, what about thrust grease? Looking at the pic on amain, looks just like what I got (ACERGoo) On my truck the little disc with the balls in it that are the most inner part of the slipper shaft don't turn inside the disc, an I had never greased it before I saw to do so in the center diff instructions.
The thrust bearing on the slipper turns so little you can almost get away leaving it dry, but a little lube won't hurt it either. This is as opposed to the thrust bearing in a ball diff where you need to pack that sucker full. The reason for the difference is the thrust bearing at the ball diff will trap the grease in the outdrive, the grease on the slipper thrust bearing will sling itself all over the inside of the gear cover.
01-12-2012, 09:06 PM
2nd run with my car, and it feels better and better, we have a kind of small indoor track, that is technical and have a lot of jumps and whoopies..
I use KYOSHO Ultima SC tires that are sanded to slicks (only alowed here) slick tires..
3k rear
20k front
35w front
30w rear
Blue Swaybars on both ends
Yellow Springs front and rear
just under bone level
Using the 3/3 toe block in the rear made a huge different..easier to slide thru corners, and have more grip at the sides..
The castle Pro SC 550 4600 system with the 58/19 gearing, makes the car perfectly fast..
chassi brace rod in carbon ,stiffer, but stilll flex sideways..
have done nothing with the roll center
EDIT: Coyote, looks real nice Mr love the blue =)
I use KYOSHO Ultima SC tires that are sanded to slicks (only alowed here) slick tires..
3k rear
20k front
35w front
30w rear
Blue Swaybars on both ends
Yellow Springs front and rear
just under bone level
Using the 3/3 toe block in the rear made a huge different..easier to slide thru corners, and have more grip at the sides..
The castle Pro SC 550 4600 system with the 58/19 gearing, makes the car perfectly fast..
chassi brace rod in carbon ,stiffer, but stilll flex sideways..
have done nothing with the roll center
EDIT: Coyote, looks real nice Mr love the blue =)
