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Old 01-08-2012, 03:50 PM
  #14401  
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Originally Posted by Kbmoss
Try to shim the front ball studs, this lowers your cg. I have 5mm under mine, and others have some as well Mantis is one that comes to mind. I have also found that on my track no front sway bar allows the front to bite more.

I also found that the truck doesnt like weight in the nose, I scaled my truck and put .9 oz on either side of the servo(1.8oz total). My truck was doing the same as you discribed, I took the weight out and it had more front bite, It seems that the extra wight up front doesnt allow the truck to change derection quickly, too much momentum i guess. The guess who run saddles say inline is better than all the way forward, I'm assuming that is for the same reasons.

A higher speed servo does help, but like everything else with this truck, speed and power does not makeup for a poor setup.

There are things you can do in your setup to help corner entry:
Less caster
longer front link
standup front shocks
shimm front ball studs
move back on the ackerman/need Mantis' ack bar
a smaller rear sway bar
lean rear shocks over
softer front springs/stiffer rears
and the list goes on....
i think i might pull the weight up front ... and try that ... its the entry to 180 and s curves .... wild cherry went by me like i was tyed to a stump in the s curves yesterday when i was practicing ... i had to tip toe around and he was able to be under thottle ... makes a diffrence in lap times .... and i need to find about 2 seconds a lap ... lol ...

if pulling the weight helps then i will try 35 up front in the shocks
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Sofa King
The front seems the worst culprit... and is not always easily visible. When you take your arm off next time, turn them vertical, put the pin in the top, if the pin falls out the bottom, they are good. If you have to push the pin through, or you have to use something to pull the pin out in the first place... they are warped. Seems the two pieces that the pin goes through get twisted or out of line with each other and binds up the hinge pin. Any racer knows that you should have very free hinge pins... they should slide freely through the arms.
And mine do. I just got done going through my truck and pulled all 4 of my arms off. Put them on a marble counter and not warped. Did the hinge pin thing and still good. I have done this before, but thanks for thinking I haven't.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:10 PM
  #14403  
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
If you want to make your own chassis brace, try heisting your spouse's knitting needle. It`s even the right color...
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...108_172744.jpg
Thats Sweet!! How did you put the rod ends on?? I may have to try this..
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:26 PM
  #14404  
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Originally Posted by mxer373
i think i might pull the weight up front ... and try that ... its the entry to 180 and s curves .... wild cherry went by me like i was tyed to a stump in the s curves yesterday when i was practicing ... i had to tip toe around and he was able to be under thottle ... makes a diffrence in lap times .... and i need to find about 2 seconds a lap ... lol ...

if pulling the weight helps then i will try 35 up front in the shocks
I would try 30F 25R with the 1.2 pistons. I have 35F 30R but I'm running the 1.3 pistons, I have the RC Shock 2 stage pistons waiting to be put in(along with the ball spur ) With the 2 stage I'm going to start with 25f 20r oils and go from there.

IMO you dont need the .08 servos, anything around .12 is fast enough. The .08 are nice in s curves, but your reaction time is bigger than servo time in those cases.

Work your setup for more front grip, then if needed get a faster servo. As far as you being 2 sec off, more track time will get closer than anything. Learning how to drive the truck is even greater than a setup, and thats with any truck. I'm still learning with mine, Everytime I go out I drop about 3 tenths from the start of the night to the end, even if I dont work on my setup. Factory guys can make anything fast, thats why they make a living doing this, us normal folk need practice. The more you practice, the more things will fall in place. Ask questions at the track as well, see who is fast and make them your friend. If WildCherry blew your doors off ask him what he did to get there, I bet he didnt start out that fast. Asking a question is how I came about removing my front weight, I asked the fastest guy with a sc10 what he was doing. He took one look at my truck and said I probably have to much weight making the truck not want to turn.

Last edited by Kbmoss; 01-08-2012 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:38 PM
  #14405  
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This question might not belong in this thread, but I have a brand new sc10 4x4 that I use for the first time today. It runs good except for one problem. Sometimes when I accelerated it would take off then slam on the brakes by itself. I'm new to lipo and brushless. I was wondering if this is the esc telling me that it has reached the lipo cutoff volt?
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:45 PM
  #14406  
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No theres something wrong with your esc.

I miss my 4x4

I ran 2wd today and reminded myself how much I hate it lol.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Wow... I appreciate the test example. I wouldn't of thought.

Anyone else have the same luck? Looks like the Pro 4 is going to be in the Mail. I was hoping to keep a 550, but not if that's the case. My Castle 550 is icecold under crazy gearing and has GOBS of torque.
I just got home from the track after running the exotec for the first time. I run the sc4x 4.5 and was worried about temps after adding 5 ozs. After 7 or 8 mins motor was 132, temp outside was about 70 (nice day in GA). It's geared 13/62. Track is medium sized where lap times are mid to high 30's. I am thinking about going to the pro 4 4600, the sc4x just doesnt have the top end on the straight. I know someone is going to say gear up but I lost a little bottom end already with the added weight and we have a couple of good sized jumps with short run ups. I may try a 14 this week and see how it does. Motor does great every where on the track, then I hit the straight and just kinda cruise when I would rather fly.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by coconut
This question might not belong in this thread, but I have a brand new sc10 4x4 that I use for the first time today. It runs good except for one problem. Sometimes when I accelerated it would take off then slam on the brakes by itself. I'm new to lipo and brushless. I was wondering if this is the esc telling me that it has reached the lipo cutoff volt?
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
No theres something wrong with your esc.

I miss my 4x4

I ran 2wd today and reminded myself how much I hate it lol.
Something maybe wrong with the esc, check your settings to make sure something stupid isnt going on, ie lipo cutoff at 3.8v per cell.

Also how long into your run did it happen, if your battery dumped (ran out of volts) it maybe doing the same.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:51 PM
  #14409  
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Would it be cogging? I don't know what that is. When the esc reach the lcv will the truck just stop working completely? I'm new to this, sorry. I'm running the MMP with the 1406 5700kV and 12 t pinion. And I'm using the Duratrax 5400 mah 20c.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:53 PM
  #14410  
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Thats a pretty sick truck! I want one!!!
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:14 PM
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I didn't see anyone replying to my question about the diff (you're right, should have posted on Shox thread) So I went out anyway. I figured... "dammit, I wanna drive, i'll just fix what breaks"

Holy. Shit.

I love the Center Diff. It was the power that made me fall in love with The Pin tune, and the tight corners. The only problem I now have is out of the corner steering is for lack of a better word: Shit. I cannot use 'any' power whatsoever out the last 40% of the corner or I shoot out of it like a rubber band. That "haven't tuned the truck with the diff" part aside, Fantastic.

(I ruined my tire Foams. Mantis, They're Proline closed cell, I'll be waiting by the mailbox. )

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Old 01-08-2012, 05:18 PM
  #14412  
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Glad you like the center diff Coyoteslash!!! Marcus make exellent stuff... did you get to try the 2 stage pistons??
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Glad you like the center diff Coyoteslash!!! Marcus make exellent stuff... did you get to try the 2 stage pistons??
Honest answer I didn't want to rebuild my shocks right now./lazy They're planted. I'll get to that as soon as the oil's spent. (next week) Also, I don't keep 25 in my arsenal. So I have to order some.

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Old 01-08-2012, 05:25 PM
  #14414  
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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey
I just got home from the track after running the exotec for the first time. I run the sc4x 4.5 and was worried about temps after adding 5 ozs. After 7 or 8 mins motor was 132, temp outside was about 70 (nice day in GA). It's geared 13/62. Track is medium sized where lap times are mid to high 30's. I am thinking about going to the pro 4 4600, the sc4x just doesnt have the top end on the straight. I know someone is going to say gear up but I lost a little bottom end already with the added weight and we have a couple of good sized jumps with short run ups. I may try a 14 this week and see how it does. Motor does great every where on the track, then I hit the straight and just kinda cruise when I would rather fly.
You need to gear up to 15 and watch that motor come alive. Lol
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by coconut
Would it be cogging? I don't know what that is. When the esc reach the lcv will the truck just stop working completely? I'm new to this, sorry. I'm running the MMP with the 1406 5700kV and 12 t pinion. And I'm using the Duratrax 5400 mah 20c.
If it's cogging the motor will stutter at low rpms. The internal bec in the mmp maybe bad, castle sells external ones for around 20 bucks. Also you may want to get a higher c rating, 20c is low for this truck. Gens ace sells a 40c for $30. The low c rating maybe tripping something in the esc and shuting it down.
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