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Old 12-26-2011, 06:58 PM
  #13111  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
I haven't gotten to try the center diff yet, but I'm betting it's going to be the standard for racers from what I've heard and seen in the vids. I'm thinking the way to go is to get the center diff along with a set of garo's (and maybe the basket if you feel you need it) as a solid backup.

The brace is probably a good idea regardless of battery setup, I consider the exotech to be a nice option, but you can get by well enough with the brace and some weights.

I'm running my chasis stock right now, thinking about getting the exotech.
all right, thanks. i know you guys have had to explain this stuff many times, but there isn't much you can do to help the average lazy american besides repeat what you said.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I'm getting a new 'mod' for my truck, Airtronics M11x. I have never run such a radio before, does anyone rock one of these and have any suggestions for me to follow? I should have it next week sometime.

i just got the standard m11. it is by far the most advanced radio i have owned. i haven't gotten to drive my truck with it yet. but it is a winner in my book.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:01 PM
  #13113  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
this is like starting over!! i know Coyote is biting his tongue everytime he turns the computer on!!! LOL
He totally called it here a day or so ago:

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Well, really:

It's after Christmas. There are a ton of people who got this truck. The Thread isn't going to move forward for quite a while.

Let's just set up a table and sign setup sheets or something.
Anyway, he works at a LHS and knows the evils of the season.

Originally Posted by losifiend
So should I just build it and go?
Depends. What are you going to use for a motor? And following this setup sheet you'll be hard to go wrong.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca..._Cavalieri.pdf
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:09 PM
  #13114  
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Originally Posted by losifiend
Wow. So then why close to 900 pages with mixed reviews of what the truck needs fixed? Of course not all 87X pages are devoted to that but lots of great info on what to look out for and what preventive measures to take. I'm just saying, with shock pistons coming loose, slipper pads melting spurs, or not moving under load, the controversial center brace, saddle pack conversions, dual stage piston upgrades, and the request for a center diff.....I'm just going by what I have read. I have yet to build mine. I'm just looking to spend more time on the track and less in the pits.

So should I just build it and go?
Build it and go run it. Add or change things after you see how it performs. Some run very few if any mods and some use just about everything. It's up to you.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:27 PM
  #13115  
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Default Motor question

What motors do you guys prefer? I am new to driving the sc10 4x4. I am familiar with the motors for a sct 2wd and nitro buggies and want the motor that performs comparative to a nitro motor.
I purchased a used sc10 4x4 that came with a Novak 550 5.5 HV and mmp. I have been racing on an 1/8 scale track for a month and I have no complaints with performance and love the truck. I will be running on a 1/10 indoor clay track this winter and 1/8 nitro track in the warmer months. The 550 5.5 might be the best motor but would like to hear your thoughts, as I have to experience with other motors for comparison. I have noticed some run the 550 5.5, castle 1410 3800 4 pole, tekin pro4, vipers, and tenshock. What motors do you guys like? Do some of these motors have advantages over the others. I prefer not to have to modify the chassis. I would consider running a fan for the motor if the motor is a beast but would rather not. Thanks for your time.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:32 PM
  #13116  
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Cant get go wrong with tenshock or viper copperhead, both are budget priced and tons of power, 4 pole tekins cant hang with either, only downside is there not roar legal
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:33 PM
  #13117  
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I had a Castle 4 pole 3800 kv in mine originally and it was fine, but then I put a Tekin Pro 4 4600 kv in, it is nice, very smooth power with insane top end. It's actually too much for this truck I'm actually going to step down to a 4000 kv.

The size of the motor you run depends on what track layout you run on.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:52 PM
  #13118  
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Originally Posted by rickybobbyxxx
Cant get go wrong with tenshock or viper copperhead, both are budget priced and tons of power, 4 pole tekins cant hang with either, only downside is there not roar legal
Which tenshock or viper do you recommend?

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I had a Castle 4 pole 3800 kv in mine originally and it was fine, but then I put a Tekin Pro 4 4600 kv in, it is nice, very smooth power with insane top end. It's actually too much for this truck I'm actually going to step down to a 4000 kv.

The size of the motor you run depends on what track layout you run on.
So the Pro 4 is more powerful and smoother than the castle 3800?

Thanks, just trying to learn about these. How do either of these compare to my 5.5 550? pros/cons. Are certain motors better for smaller tracks and others for larger tracks. My 1/8 scale track has alot of larger doubles and a few triples. The 1/10 scale track doesn't have any big jumps, but lots of straights.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by losifiend
Wow. So then why close to 900 pages with mixed reviews of what the truck needs fixed? Of course not all 87X pages are devoted to that but lots of great info on what to look out for and what preventive measures to take. I'm just saying, with shock pistons coming loose, slipper pads melting spurs, or not moving under load, the controversial center brace, saddle pack conversions, dual stage piston upgrades, and the request for a center diff.....I'm just going by what I have read. I have yet to build mine. I'm just looking to spend more time on the track and less in the pits.

So should I just build it and go?
When I got mine, when they hit the market, I ran it box stock. Did the shock piston screw deal, filled the diffs and ran it. Worked well enough to win. And that's with the stock small slipper pads.

As time went on things I changed were, Ft slipper pads, and home-made sway bars. Ran it like that for a while and did well.

Long story short is, all the fancy stuff is not needed..... Do the piston check and diffs and go run it. I'll bet you'll be faster w/ this than what you had.....

Don't get me wrong, there's alot of good stuff out there,,RCSHOX products, for one that will make the truck better, but it's pretty good out the box.

This truck likes to be driven smoothly stock, if you keep from chucking it around you'll be fine.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:59 PM
  #13120  
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Yes pro 4 tek n is a little bit faster than the castle motor,buuuutttt tenshock and viper both have 5200kv 4 pole 550 motors that are ridiculously fast!!!!!! Of those two i like the viper better, u cant overheat the viper, i have tried
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:04 PM
  #13121  
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Oh yea and viper rc is american made and come with a one year warranty and excellent customer service, amain has there copperhead combos on preorder for 150 dollers
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:05 PM
  #13122  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
Which tenshock or viper do you recommend?



So the Pro 4 is more powerful and smoother than the castle 3800?

Thanks, just trying to learn about these. How do either of these compare to my 5.5 550? pros/cons. Are certain motors better for smaller tracks and others for larger tracks. My 1/8 scale track has alot of larger doubles and a few triples. The 1/10 scale track doesn't have any big jumps, but lots of straights.
Any sensored motor is going to be smoother than a non sensored motor. So yes the pro 4 is smoother. Some run the 540 on indoor mid to small tracks and do fine but when they switch to a bigger outdoor track the 540 is not the beast option ( i am talking about 2 pole 540's not 4 pole like the castle 3800 or pro 4)

The pro 4 is probably the most recommemd right know. And a advantage to a 540 is you do not have to add as much weight to "balance" the truck out compared to a 550 can.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rickybobbyxxx
Yes pro 4 tek n is a little bit faster than the castle motor,buuuutttt tenshock and viper both have 5200kv 4 pole 550 motors that are ridiculously fast!!!!!! Of those two i like the viper better, u cant overheat the viper, i have tried
Thanks,
Most post a Pro 4 4600 is way to much. Is the Viper 5200 4 pole 550 more powerful that that? How does it do on batteries? Where can you buy them and how much? Any idea how the castle 3800, Pro 4 4000 and viper 550 compare to my Novak 5.5 550 w/mmp?
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Any sensored motor is going to be smoother than a non sensored motor. So yes the pro 4 is smoother. Some run the 540 on indoor mid to small tracks and do fine but when they switch to a bigger outdoor track the 540 is not the beast option ( i am talking about 2 pole 540's not 4 pole like the castle 3800 or pro 4)

The pro 4 is probably the most recommemd right know. And a advantage to a 540 is you do not have to add as much weight to "balance" the truck out compared to a 550 can.
I use the Mamba Max Pro SCT edition. It's sensorless, but the torque, power, and raw punch that we guys use with 4wheeldrive. The "smoothness" is not 'nearly' as important as a 2wheel drive smoother drive. (totally debatable, I know.) We are on power, off power, on po........ etc. BUT: It is certainly a better smoother sensored motor. I race with my Sensorless just fine though. I'm at the throttle band that makes sensored superior maybe 1% of the time? (I hope that made sense, I typed it how I talk)

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
So far , run my Ae 4x4 many moons & many wins ...


upgrades ?

my own chassis brace , sway bars and
a little oil ..



just trying to

be clear
Careful everyone. He might talk about looking at his Pink ass too. He's such a BAMF.

Originally Posted by Graphite07
whats that brace in the middle for? that runs next to the belt housing.
PM me if you'd like to purchase one. I sell for just a buck or two above cost. I only want to help the truck grow in popularity, not make a fortune.

Originally Posted by MantisWorx
this is like starting over!! i know Coyote is biting his tongue everytime he turns the computer on!!! LOL
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
lmao I can picture his head spinning around and his hands trembling wanting to jam down on the keyboard keys LOLOL
Naw, I expected this. It was you guys who buy it to 'race' and want to be bottle fed. You know who you are.
75% of the new guys are going to be Casuals. I wish I had control of the Page 1 post. I would update it.

Originally Posted by losifiend
Wow. So then why close to 900 pages with mixed reviews of what the truck needs fixed? Of course not all 87X pages are devoted to that but lots of great info on what to look out for and what preventive measures to take. I'm just saying, with shock pistons coming loose, slipper pads melting spurs, or not moving under load, the controversial center brace, saddle pack conversions, dual stage piston upgrades, and the request for a center diff.....I'm just going by what I have read. I have yet to build mine. I'm just looking to spend more time on the track and less in the pits.

So should I just build it and go?
Cherry is a RC God. He has had his Truck many more moons than even me, who received it the weekend before it was released. Making him far superior in experience to what the truck needs. IE: saying he doesn't need upgrades /featherfluff








This list is the "essential" list from my experience without breaking the bank. It only gets crazy from there on out. But the "crazy" stuff is awesome.

The Truck needs:
- Swaybars (front) (rear)
- Dif-oil changes (setup sheets)
- Springs (setup sheets) (front) (rear)
- can be bought individually.
- Chassis Brace
(CoyoteTech if you want a good price)
- Added and Balanced weight: This is a light truck, Helpful for Grip and when you're getting pushed around by Losi's. (not mandatory)



High End Suggestions:
- RCSHOX Garodisks
- RCSHOX Dual stage Pistons
- MTK Slipper Basket
- Exotek AL Chassis
- Reflex Racing Top Deck
- FT Shock upgrade Kit (front) (rear)
- AL Hex adapters

(AL: Aluminum)

PLUG: The CoyoteTech Chassis Brace is 15.00 shipped and is an easy bolt on "nearly" necessity for this Truck with the Belt flex that CraigMBA showed you guys from the relinked pictures. PM me if you're interested.

-

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 12-26-2011 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:31 PM
  #13125  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Depends. What are you going to use for a motor? And following this setup sheet you'll be hard to go wrong.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca..._Cavalieri.pdf
Tekin 5.5 4X 550 motor. Thanks for the link

Originally Posted by SCTDan
Build it and go run it. Add or change things after you see how it performs. Some run very few if any mods and some use just about everything. It's up to you.
Originally Posted by Vegatron75
When I got mine, when they hit the market, I
As time went on things I changed were, Ft slipper pads, and home-made sway bars. Ran it like that for a while and did well.

Long story short is, all the fancy stuff is not needed..... Do the piston check and diffs and go run it. I'll bet you'll be faster w/ this than what you had.....

Don't get me wrong, there's alot of good stuff out there,,RCSHOX products, for one that will make the truck better, but it's pretty good out the box.

This truck likes to be driven smoothly stock, if you keep from chucking it around you'll be fine.
Thank you both, and Coyote Slash as well. I will quit over thinking the build and just build the truck with what I have so far which is RPM arms, Aluminum clutch basket, sway bar set, HD slipper pads, and M3 BowTies on DE Wheels. I'll add the center brace just because I already have the materials.

I'm sure it will drive better than the last SC truck I had a year ago which was a 4x4 Slash. Thanks again guys.
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