IRM616

iTrader: (29)

Anti roll bars or sway bars is a good start.

Chad Smith

Fixed

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

Tekin has stated in other threads not to use the RS speedos with 4x4 short course. Will it work? Yes, but it isn't nearly as robust and will always be on the edge of blowing it up.

Just get a MMPro if you are on a budget or get an RX8 or the other 8th scale controllers to be safe.

4x4 SCT is closer to 8th scale in terms of stress on equipment/electronics so you are much better off using higher spec'd equipment.

derbrylac

iTrader: (5)

it is a little louder but not as loud as it would be compared to a mod1 mesh. make sure your mesh is adequate and not too tight.

lodhammerdin

iTrader: (77)

+1. My truck is dam near silent. I can barely hear it. I run a LRP x12L geared 12/62 with a tc spec v2.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Although the sticks are fine the saddles will balance it better and help it jump.better.

Kbmoss

iTrader: (14)

Saddle packs do help balance the truck out, but you can add weight to do the same. I would like to use saddles but I can afford to buy new batteries and the b44 pack kit. I can weight my truck for 10 bucks and get the same result, as a saddle conversion.

Mizchief

Something I've noticed when I got involved with land R/C after a couple years doing air, is that no one ever talks about the actual amps being used. When you buy an Air ESC it almost always says right in the name "80A ESC" etc. where in land it's always talked about in terms of scale or "higher spec'd"

Why is that? I would much rather know much current the motor and gear combo are going to pull, then pick my esc and batteries based on that requirement.

vw addict

iTrader: (38)

Thanks, probably just get the MMP, sell the Sidewinder, and put the RS Pro into my 2wd.

GuiltyByAssoc

iTrader: (6)

The tranny outdrive wobbling problem is the only remaining issue for me with this truck. I notice the wobbles after only a few pks with the new rear tranny case and it got so bad by the end of day the internal gears inside the tranny would skip under hard acceleration.

Using double shims and wobbling seems to go away...for now.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

Different cultures. Car guys seem to like stuff dumbed down imho. Much easier to say 1/10 ESC instead of making people do math. The car market is also years behind the airplane/heli guys otherwise we'd be running 5s and 6s more regularly in our cars instead of still putzing around with 2s and 6 minute mains, but that is another topic.

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

Not sure if you are doing this already, but if you limit the up travel of the shocks it helps. I believe I have 7mm rear and 5mm front. I kept adding limiters to the shocks until the axle did not hit the outdrive when fully compressed. That would be outside limiters.

truck driver

push up on your rear arm until it bottoms out, then look where the out drive hits the arm.
take a dremel and remove the arm material until it clears your out drive, also you can limit the up travel by putting shims on the shock shaft just above the spring cup

Wild Cherry

Almost done with the set-up ..


Its Cody's.....


Rear details....

1.8m sway bar
7k diff oil
20T pulley



rear shock

emulsion shock
yellow spring
30w
1.2m piston
no limiters
1m rebound

Shock position

inside on tower
inside on arm

camber link

middle hole on rear hub
inside on chassis, no shim or washers


ride height 24m, ft & back



comments
full time 4w drive
chassis brace
Saddle Packs mounted inline , 1oz behind battery,1oz back wall of chassis under belt, 1/4 oz back corner by gear cover, standard decouple slipper

Wild Cherry

first half of set-up