SC10 4x4 Thread
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Congratz!
there are a lot of tuning options for this truck...
exoteck chassis
rcshox.com garodiscs, 2 stage pistons, center ball diff
you will definatly need swaybars
what I have found is that the truck is a little light and and too flexable and benefists from weight down low i.e. exotek chassis.
The center ball diff that Mantis(RCshox.com) and I have been testing has shown to work very well and makes the truck easyer to drivehard, and you dont need to run extremely thick front diff fluids, I am using 7k front and 3k rear.
Good luck
there are a lot of tuning options for this truck...
exoteck chassis
rcshox.com garodiscs, 2 stage pistons, center ball diff
you will definatly need swaybars
what I have found is that the truck is a little light and and too flexable and benefists from weight down low i.e. exotek chassis.
The center ball diff that Mantis(RCshox.com) and I have been testing has shown to work very well and makes the truck easyer to drivehard, and you dont need to run extremely thick front diff fluids, I am using 7k front and 3k rear.
Good luck
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.
Thanks!
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.
Thanks!![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.
Thanks!![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.
Thanks!![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks!
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a real nice Dewalt I use for everything and the Hudy tips, so no problems there.
I also take things like "oh god this is hard to do!" with a grain of salt hehe.![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
How do you all find your diff fluids holding up? I do race the 8.2 nitro (my primary class) and 8.2e buggy's (love them both!) and typically I'll replace all the diff fluids in the nitro after quals and in the ebug around about 1hr of run time (it seems to be a lot easier on the diffs except the middle, which is easy enough to change). I find the AE fluids hold up really well! Just curious what your experiences are so far with the sc10.![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks again guys, sorry for the barrage of questions, trying to get as much info as I can as quickly as possible.![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
FTR, I was planning on running an RX8/SC4X 4.5 w/ 12t combo, if you have any input n that as well.
Thanks again!
I also take things like "oh god this is hard to do!" with a grain of salt hehe.
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
How do you all find your diff fluids holding up? I do race the 8.2 nitro (my primary class) and 8.2e buggy's (love them both!) and typically I'll replace all the diff fluids in the nitro after quals and in the ebug around about 1hr of run time (it seems to be a lot easier on the diffs except the middle, which is easy enough to change). I find the AE fluids hold up really well! Just curious what your experiences are so far with the sc10.
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks again guys, sorry for the barrage of questions, trying to get as much info as I can as quickly as possible.
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
FTR, I was planning on running an RX8/SC4X 4.5 w/ 12t combo, if you have any input n that as well.
Thanks again!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For me the diffs slowly leak no matter what I do. I refresh the oil every 3-4 racedays.
fwiw, I would pick the Pro4 4000kv over the 4.5 sc4x. Runs cooler with more power and a lighter package. Also, the throttle response is just more linear than the sc4x to me.
fwiw, I would pick the Pro4 4000kv over the 4.5 sc4x. Runs cooler with more power and a lighter package. Also, the throttle response is just more linear than the sc4x to me.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a real nice Dewalt I use for everything and the Hudy tips, so no problems there.
I also take things like "oh god this is hard to do!" with a grain of salt hehe.![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
How do you all find your diff fluids holding up? I do race the 8.2 nitro (my primary class) and 8.2e buggy's (love them both!) and typically I'll replace all the diff fluids in the nitro after quals and in the ebug around about 1hr of run time (it seems to be a lot easier on the diffs except the middle, which is easy enough to change). I find the AE fluids hold up really well! Just curious what your experiences are so far with the sc10.![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks again guys, sorry for the barrage of questions, trying to get as much info as I can as quickly as possible.![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
FTR, I was planning on running an RX8/SC4X 4.5 w/ 12t combo, if you have any input n that as well.
Thanks again!
I also take things like "oh god this is hard to do!" with a grain of salt hehe.
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
How do you all find your diff fluids holding up? I do race the 8.2 nitro (my primary class) and 8.2e buggy's (love them both!) and typically I'll replace all the diff fluids in the nitro after quals and in the ebug around about 1hr of run time (it seems to be a lot easier on the diffs except the middle, which is easy enough to change). I find the AE fluids hold up really well! Just curious what your experiences are so far with the sc10.
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks again guys, sorry for the barrage of questions, trying to get as much info as I can as quickly as possible.
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
FTR, I was planning on running an RX8/SC4X 4.5 w/ 12t combo, if you have any input n that as well.
Thanks again!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjlWB...w&feature=plcp
make a decision about what your going to do with the pinning or not before you build your difs. i personally thinking pinning is the best option (unless you go center dif
![sneaky](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/sneaky.gif)
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just recently replaced the shims in my diffs with 15mmx5mmx0.3mm Xray shims. They seem to limit the outdrive play as well as two stock shims, have zero parasitic drag, and being a thicker washer, I think they will stand up better... time will tell, but so far, I am happy with the fit.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
AE FT alum wheels hexes, so you don't lose the pin constantly
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
also JC hazard wheels if you can use them, sponsors etc
spares: arms, front knuckles, front cvd bones
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
as im building my kit i just installed the belt and it says make sure rotates freely but the belt dont move so either im overthinking or i messed up somewhere can some please help a guy out.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You are overthinking it lol. You can adjust tension once you have wheels on the car and roll it. But does it move a little or not at all?
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Can somebody tell me why the front bones on my truck are bending? If i get the factory team shiny bones will it prevent it? thank guys and hope i get a responce
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Problem is that once the pads start to heat up the slip too much and makes your truck feel like the battery is dumping.
Also, with a lot of the guys getting the center dif, you I bet you can buy used basket, garodiscs, and vented slipper off one of us for cheap.