TocSin

iTrader: (51)

That is exactly what I'm running in mine. It fits like it was built specifically for the truck.

Shark413

iTrader: (24)

I got out on the track and this truck is amazing. One thing I didn't like was changing the pinion. My Novak 550 is a tight fit and when changing pinions there was no way to do this with the motor in the chassis. I had to remove the entire rear section to install a different pinion. And I noticed that anything larger than a 14T pinion won't fit thru the hole in the motor mount plate and will have to be installed from there opposite side requiring a lot of disassembly. Anybody have some tips for changing pinions?

Bburns

iTrader: (4)

Use a ball head hex wrench. Makes it easier, and you don't have to take the truck apart.

Wild Cherry

Shark , a 2m ball end driver helps with tighting the pinion grub screw.

killerguppy

iTrader: (3)

fitament:
1. I can confirm that the Tenshock SC401 fits fine
2. Hitec HSC-5998TG wire length is too short to reach the receiver box

murky123

probably the first two AE sc10 4x4 in the netherlands.. one of them is mine

Harry Sachs

iTrader: (15)

Unless I'm not holding my mouth right I could not get mine to fit. Didn't feel like Dremeling on the chassis so I got a Ballistic 550.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

Am I going to need to buy more shims or did you have enough with what came in the kit?

Bburns

iTrader: (4)

I used extra shims I had laying around. They are .2 mm thick. I had 2 shims per wheel. The hexs were awesome for me on sat. Not one problem.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

I hate to use ball end drivers on that pinion screw with motor in place.. you can't get it as tight without stripping it. And removing the motor screws all the way and putting them back in is tedious.

So I just keep all the various spur gears in my pit box. With the right pinion left in place this will allow me to swap a decent range of ratios easier by just loosening and shifting the motor and removing the slipper. And of course use 3mm allen heads for the motor and a ball end driver.

For 48P, the extra spurs you might use are from the 2wd. There's the stock 87T and also a 90T kimbrough. They are slightly thinner than the 93T in the kit fwiw.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

P/N for SHIMS for Tekno hex upgrade. Based on Bburn's post it sounds like you'd need either (2) of the HPI kits, or possibly (1) Traxxas kit would work with a single 0.5 shim on each side.


HPI Z689 6x8x0.2mm (would need 2 sets)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPD13&P=7


Traxxas 3981 6x9.5x0.5mm
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEA8&P=7


Traxxas 3982 6x8x0.5mm
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEA6&P=7

There's also these but these are too large OD and would probably rub on the outer race of the bearing. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUWK1&P=7

AND AXLE PINS because the AE ones are too long for the tekno hex: (only 4 pins per package, pic is wrong)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ55&P=7

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

I had to swap out servos. My new xp ds 1015 wasnt centering right, luckily my e buggy is down due to speedo problems, so I took my xp ds 1015 servo out of that and put it in my sct. Took me 35 min including taking tires off, battery out, reassembling the servo saver to add grease, and then putting the tires back on and battery back in. The more I tinker with the truck, the more I appreciate how its designed. My older xp servo is working perfectly, so no more stearing issues that I had earlier. To the post office to send a speedo into castl, and a servo to AE.

Bburns

iTrader: (4)

I'll post pics in a few mins

Bburns

iTrader: (4)

tekno wheel hex that you can buy for the 4wd slash tekno cvd kit. just shim to take out slop, but not to tight when you shim it. Also, you need to use the traxxas slash 4x4 wheel pin to fit in the tekno hex. the ae pin is to long.

JayCrash450

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately I dont have anything really to contribute but a thanks to those of you who took the time to share their experiences while putting this build together, it really helped. I cant wait to get this thing out there.

Finished the build but had some of the typical things noted in this thread...notably:

1. The diffs, one was ok but the other was completely low. It had a fine coat of oil but was completely empty otherwise. Thanks for making me open them up.

2. The shock shaft screws were loose on 3 of the shocks. I didnt remove the screws but just had tightened them up, hopefully they dont back out. I was tempted to remove them and add some loctite but I didnt. Will see how it goes.

3. Transmission builds were easy because I have a 2wd sc10. Make sure you dont over tighten the screws, they just need to be slightly snugged.

Other than that everything went together well. Hopefully it runs as well as the design is innovative. Im also hoping after having it apart a few times it will become easy to work on because building it makes it seems as the car is very complicated but I suspect once you have it apart a few times it wont be so bad.

I will be running a tekin rx8, 4.5 sc4x, and a ds1015 servo....should rip!