SC10 4x4 Thread
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I have some pages to read...
I hate this season... but it's paying. Retail. Blows.
I've cleaned up my truck and am considering putting it away for the winter. I cannot afford the prices that would entail to properly get back into racing style, practice to be competitive and succeed without quite a bit of money on track time alone. It's not in the cards. I may be finding myself a couple video games or take up knitting...
I have no idea. ![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
hm... Maybe I won't eat lunch and use that money...
I hate this season... but it's paying. Retail. Blows.
I've cleaned up my truck and am considering putting it away for the winter. I cannot afford the prices that would entail to properly get back into racing style, practice to be competitive and succeed without quite a bit of money on track time alone. It's not in the cards. I may be finding myself a couple video games or take up knitting...
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![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
hm... Maybe I won't eat lunch and use that money...
I feel ya. I just put the 4x4 away for a while due to money I don't have anymore and just going to race the Buggy and SC10 2wd. Plus, the Pro 4 class is not very large at the track I go to and the track is little. Can't really open her up on the track
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I'm running 10k/5k without a pin. I have an hd pad for the front and two standard pads in the clutch basket with the spring almost fully compressed. Running it this way I have gone through a rear idler gear in about 3 months, so as soon as the truck starts to get noisy I replace it and at that point it does look pretty chewed up. Food for thought; If I ran the slipper looser I would probably use thicker front diff oil.
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I'm running 10k/5k without a pin. I have an hd pad for the front and two standard pads in the clutch basket with the spring almost fully compressed. Running it this way I have gone through a rear idler gear in about 3 months, so as soon as the truck starts to get noisy I replace it and at that point it does look pretty chewed up. Food for thought; If I ran the slipper looser I would probably use thicker front diff oil.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thicker front fluid removes entry and mid corner steering while adding to on power steering. The pin mod also removes entry steering while adding on power steering (and making it more consistent in med/slick consitions), so that is why most people go down on the front diff oil when adding said mod.
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If you guys can give me some setup tips I would appreicate it.
This is the track I will be running on. I have the sway bars just dont have an idea on which ones to start with. The track is very hard packed and it is clay. As you can see the jumps are not really that big
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_WGIDiTpjY
This is the track I will be running on. I have the sway bars just dont have an idea on which ones to start with. The track is very hard packed and it is clay. As you can see the jumps are not really that big
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_WGIDiTpjY
Last edited by Chad Smith; 11-30-2011 at 10:35 AM.
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
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somehere back someone mentioned using Traxxas Stampede wheel hexes to space out thw wheel width.I lost the part numbers.I know you have to drill out shft size to 6mm.
Any help??
Any help??
Tech Apprentice
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Very similar to what I'm running, except mine is 7k front, 5k rear with it pinned. Did have 20k in, but like the 7k much better.
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I had the same setup as you, 7k front and 5k rear, but I needed a little more off power rotation.... I think the truck works very well with the light diff fluids with the truck pinned.
Tech Adept
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If you guys can give me some setup tips I would appreicate it.
This is the track I will be running on. I have the sway bars just dont have an idea on which ones to start with. The track is very hard packed and it is clay. As you can see the jumps are not really that big
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_WGIDiTpjY
This is the track I will be running on. I have the sway bars just dont have an idea on which ones to start with. The track is very hard packed and it is clay. As you can see the jumps are not really that big
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_WGIDiTpjY
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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If you guys can give me some setup tips I would appreicate it.
This is the track I will be running on. I have the sway bars just dont have an idea on which ones to start with. The track is very hard packed and it is clay. As you can see the jumps are not really that big
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_WGIDiTpjY
This is the track I will be running on. I have the sway bars just dont have an idea on which ones to start with. The track is very hard packed and it is clay. As you can see the jumps are not really that big
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_WGIDiTpjY
Mark
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Thanks for the suggestions. I will give them a try and see how it works
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Tech Master
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I use one similar to this, just not with the gay ass chair-force tiger print. I have an acu print one.