SC10 4x4 Thread
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I'm not knocking rcshox's product in any way. But as an alternative to the ACK bar wouldn't one be able to switch the stock bar around? I test fitted it last night and fits fights but you have to grind away the bell-crank like in the ACK bar install manual (which I am not willing to do right now). Granted it's not adjustable and probably no where near as good as the real thing but for those on a tight budget like me it might just work. I remember people did the reverse on the blitz to get more steering so there's no reason why it cant be done here.
Once again I think rcshox's solution is much better but this might work with no additional parts.
Once again I think rcshox's solution is much better but this might work with no additional parts.
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try 15 first or 16t , may need to use a little boost too ...
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thanks, will give it a go
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Im going to be running a TENSHOCK S411 4600KV and a Hobby-wing XERUN SCT Pro ESC. Anyone familiar with any of this. what gearing should I use. Any advice for me Ext......
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You can use the pin mod while using the clutch basket, I personally dont though. The real problem is the inconsistecy of the stock slipper pads, they do not supply the right amount of slip n grip. In most cases you need to lock them down to work without over heating the slipper assembly, but the garodiscs found at http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...hp?cPath=23_26 give you adustability between (too much slip and no grip) and (locked down). They are sold in sets of two(stock slipper assembly) and three(clutch basket assembly). the clutch basket shines on high grip tacks, which I do not run.
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it does depend on the track size. i have run that motor on a medium/large covered outside track, and i was geared 14/62.
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Just got done from a quick run in the street. Motor and ESC cool to the touch.... Slipper burned my hand
. Clutch basket time!
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If you look at the instructions posted of rcshox, it details where to gring material off. http://www.rcshox.com/instructions/ackbar-installation/
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i dont recommend flipping the stock bar, it moves the ackerman way too far back which is why on my bar i dont have a mounting point that far back. whatever you do dont grind the rod end, it will pop off everytime you land funky, only grind the arms.
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I changed the rear pivot to a TeamSTRC unit, on a hunch that the binding of the inner hinge pins had something to do with the A arms distorting. I haven't ran it long enough to know for sure, but my truck gained like 7mm of ride height by simply changing that part.
The rear arms were that bound up. And yes, the truck was clean before.
I'd buy the front one if it had the delrin pivots installed in it.
The rear arms were that bound up. And yes, the truck was clean before.
I'd buy the front one if it had the delrin pivots installed in it.
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