SC10 4x4 Thread
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Ok guys, I'm hoping you guys can help me make up my mind! I currently run a 4.5 550 D3 motor. I really like it, but I want to try a pro4 motor. Should I go with a 4000 & run a larger pinion than I'm used to running or go with the 4600 which should be similar to my D3 4.5 550 (as far as gearing goes...I'm guessing both motors will have more torque than my 550)? I run on a high bite indoor clay track as well as a medium bite larger 1/8 sized outdoor track. I will eventually be running the exotek chassis, so the truck will have some weight, should that have a bearing on which motor to choose? LMK what you guys think! ![Rotating Tire](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tire.gif)
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Then your Slipper isn't doing it's job. Has nothing to do with the Idler. You basket guys are locking up your Pads. I get the original idea that we couldn't get anywhere near tight, but a slipper has to slip to do it's job. Loosen your slipper and save the spur gear. Your Tranny has nothing to do with it. If you go with a plastic idler as you sit now? You'll blow idlers instead of Spurs. Which do you want to tear down and replace?
A 32p correctly meshed Slipper slipping (manual: 2 feet on high traction suggested) Truck; will not destroy spurs, idlers, diffs, belts, etc. (of course, other than different variable issues such as pinning the slipper causing excess power on the plastic parts that were not designed for it.) I'm not talking down on anyone, or attempting not to. But we're locking these rigs up. Having the slipper tightened up is fine, but it must still slip for landings, punch control, and etc. That's RC 101 to 'not' lock that tuning option. (unless for a very specific purpose.) Plastic, metal, Unobtainium, it doesn't matter. When a Basket is installed (or get your slipper to work without one like me), you still have to have it slip. Otherwise, Idlers, diffs, Spurs go pop. Something has to give.
A 32p correctly meshed Slipper slipping (manual: 2 feet on high traction suggested) Truck; will not destroy spurs, idlers, diffs, belts, etc. (of course, other than different variable issues such as pinning the slipper causing excess power on the plastic parts that were not designed for it.) I'm not talking down on anyone, or attempting not to. But we're locking these rigs up. Having the slipper tightened up is fine, but it must still slip for landings, punch control, and etc. That's RC 101 to 'not' lock that tuning option. (unless for a very specific purpose.) Plastic, metal, Unobtainium, it doesn't matter. When a Basket is installed (or get your slipper to work without one like me), you still have to have it slip. Otherwise, Idlers, diffs, Spurs go pop. Something has to give.
Tech Master
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i am still not understanding the idler gear issue and why its not consistent??? i am still on my original with over 1000 laps!! had the tranny apart a few days ago and it still looks brand new. i agree that the slipper simply must not be set right as its is the only thing that makes sense to me. Sourdiesal has spit out two in the last two weeks, i know for sure the slipper was set right on the first one cus i set it? still think AE changed matl spec along the line.
Marcus, they are racing at Mike's on Friday. Ronhoto finally broke his Losi out there this Sat, TQ and win, not sure if he's going Friday. I TQ'd and won at Katy Sunday. Like the truck, but it's probably only 80% of where I'd like it to be. Don't think I would have had anything for Wipf, but he didn't run SC. He was quicker when were practicing with the SC's. Mine was more consistent, but I don't think it would have been enough. For a first race with it, not too bad, I need to find some TnT time. Doubt I can make Friday, but I bet Smiley is there. Just make sure it's a 10 minute race and you're golden LOL.
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well folks here is the final version of the RCshox ACKbar!
features:
billet Delrin material
AVID bearings
anodized Associated blue screws
4 adjustable points including a stock location
Aluminum "stand-offs"
Pre orders will begin shipping on friday, i am only making 30 or so this run and there are almost 20 pre-orders so i suggest ording ASAP to get yours in this batch, next batch will be 7 to 10 days later.
features:
billet Delrin material
AVID bearings
anodized Associated blue screws
4 adjustable points including a stock location
Aluminum "stand-offs"
Pre orders will begin shipping on friday, i am only making 30 or so this run and there are almost 20 pre-orders so i suggest ording ASAP to get yours in this batch, next batch will be 7 to 10 days later.
![](http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2011-11-15075846.jpg)
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Here's another thought. Wobbly top shaft? I've only blown 2 idlers in more than 10 years of racing AE cars, and both were top related (bearings). Wondering maybe if the pin doesn't get centered properly, can it cause enough wobble to take out the idler? Just a thought, since I haven't had time to pin mine yet.
Marcus, they are racing at Mike's on Friday. Ronhoto finally broke his Losi out there this Sat, TQ and win, not sure if he's going Friday. I TQ'd and won at Katy Sunday. Like the truck, but it's probably only 80% of where I'd like it to be. Don't think I would have had anything for Wipf, but he didn't run SC. He was quicker when were practicing with the SC's. Mine was more consistent, but I don't think it would have been enough. For a first race with it, not too bad, I need to find some TnT time. Doubt I can make Friday, but I bet Smiley is there. Just make sure it's a 10 minute race and you're golden LOL.
Marcus, they are racing at Mike's on Friday. Ronhoto finally broke his Losi out there this Sat, TQ and win, not sure if he's going Friday. I TQ'd and won at Katy Sunday. Like the truck, but it's probably only 80% of where I'd like it to be. Don't think I would have had anything for Wipf, but he didn't run SC. He was quicker when were practicing with the SC's. Mine was more consistent, but I don't think it would have been enough. For a first race with it, not too bad, I need to find some TnT time. Doubt I can make Friday, but I bet Smiley is there. Just make sure it's a 10 minute race and you're golden LOL.
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go with the 4000, the 4600 is just simply too much, the trend right now is lower KV /bigger pinion. i have run both and prefer the 4000. this motor is soooooo smooth! i had the novak 4.5 before and it is a good motor to but pales in comparison to the pro4, runs cooler and you dont have to worry about the bearing siezing up (it will eventually go, just a matter of time). on the video i posted i am geared 14/60 , i normally run 15/60 but my 15 came loose and wore the teeth funny. after a 10min main my temps were 155! The pro4 is the best motor i have ever purchased, its that good![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (76)
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go with the 4000, the 4600 is just simply too much, the trend right now is lower KV /bigger pinion. i have run both and prefer the 4000. this motor is soooooo smooth! i had the novak 4.5 before and it is a good motor to but pales in comparison to the pro4, runs cooler and you dont have to worry about the bearing siezing up (it will eventually go, just a matter of time). on the video i posted i am geared 14/60 , i normally run 15/60 but my 15 came loose and wore the teeth funny. after a 10min main my temps were 155! The pro4 is the best motor i have ever purchased, its that good![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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BLbound, rest assured that the 4000kv has all the power you will ever need. You can gear down for a small technical track or gear up for a big 1/8 track. i can literaly gear up to 45mph-ish and still be running cool enough to ru 10min mains
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Tech Apprentice
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Just ordered the ackbar!! Looking forward to installing it.
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i dont know what ESC you ar having but a 4000 with 10* of boost is untouchable!! im able to hang with E buggies down the straights (and pretty much the entire track here lately!! nothing better than hunting down an E buggy!! i f i were to buy another one it would be the 3800!
Tech Master
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Taylor. Smiley talked him into the Losi, then built and set up for him. So, he has at least one car with an actual setup on it LOL.
Tech Master
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Then your Slipper isn't doing it's job. Has nothing to do with the Idler. You basket guys are locking up your Pads. I get the original idea that we couldn't get anywhere near tight, but a slipper has to slip to do it's job. Loosen your slipper and save the spur gear. Your Tranny has nothing to do with it. If you go with a plastic idler as you sit now? You'll blow idlers instead of Spurs. Which do you want to tear down and replace?
A 32p correctly meshed Slipper slipping (manual: 2 feet on high traction suggested) Truck; will not destroy spurs, idlers, diffs, belts, etc. (of course, other than different variable issues such as pinning the slipper causing excess power on the plastic parts that were not designed for it.) I'm not talking down on anyone, or attempting not to. But we're locking these rigs up. Having the slipper tightened up is fine, but it must still slip for landings, punch control, and etc. That's RC 101 to 'not' lock that tuning option. (unless for a very specific purpose.) Plastic, metal, Unobtainium, it doesn't matter. When a Basket is installed (or get your slipper to work without one like me), you still have to have it slip. Otherwise, Idlers, diffs, Spurs go pop. Something has to give.
A 32p correctly meshed Slipper slipping (manual: 2 feet on high traction suggested) Truck; will not destroy spurs, idlers, diffs, belts, etc. (of course, other than different variable issues such as pinning the slipper causing excess power on the plastic parts that were not designed for it.) I'm not talking down on anyone, or attempting not to. But we're locking these rigs up. Having the slipper tightened up is fine, but it must still slip for landings, punch control, and etc. That's RC 101 to 'not' lock that tuning option. (unless for a very specific purpose.) Plastic, metal, Unobtainium, it doesn't matter. When a Basket is installed (or get your slipper to work without one like me), you still have to have it slip. Otherwise, Idlers, diffs, Spurs go pop. Something has to give.
yeah, basket isn't an issue, did it with out the basket. my setting on my spurs is pretty dead on (although I'm not perfect and there is room for error). I've done various settings I'm the lock nut, same result. only other thing to try after the idler swap is to switch my bashers motor back to a 1/10 scale motor BUT i I didn't have the issue when it was all plastic. I did think the hot racing aluminum different looked nice but I thought it might have been machined a little to small as one of my outdrive bearing did not fit properly and I had to use my old end off my different for the bearing to fit. when I took the trans the aluminum was turning black with all the impurities coming out. I'm already switch idlers and will run it tonight and do an internal. inspection if it doesn't lose another spur. I also noticed my input shaft has a nice groove cut it in, luckily I had already gotten 2 shafts yesterday to send off to get pinned(thanks coyote) so I replace it. I'm still using the folded paper trick as my base for setting my spur
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Viper released there 4 pole 550 5150 kv today, game over for tekin