SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
makes sense to me... two vehicles that weigh the exact same, but mass is centralized in one and not in the other, will handle completely different. that is why people are using saddle packs, and getting results.
also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare.
it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace?
also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare.
it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace?
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
BTW, nice job!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Uh... Why are we using the Crook's price of 30 dollars? You could buy Aircraft Grade Carbon and Aluminum Rod ends and not spend 30 bucks. ![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Mine's 15, with a 5 dollar envelope to send it. So you're still cheaper but I am using a RC 35% Plane Carbon Rodand it is 'not' super cheap. You're idea is inventive and works great i'm sure, props.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Mine's 15, with a 5 dollar envelope to send it. So you're still cheaper but I am using a RC 35% Plane Carbon Rodand it is 'not' super cheap. You're idea is inventive and works great i'm sure, props.
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 11-12-2011 at 08:57 PM.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would also suggest you go to 30k oil in the front...I've been running that or a while with 7k oil in the rear...truck has been great. You might want to try a different tire for your track? Maybe some gridirons instead of enduros? The right tire makes a WORLD of difference.
Quick questin for u guys...
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern Mexico (aka, El Paso, TX)
Posts: 1,194
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Tech Apprentice
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay, so I think I may have a new one. I have seen that many are experiencing bowed arms but has anyone experienced bent hinge pins? My rear hing pins have bent at what looks like the point where they come out of the forward mount. I have had this happen to two pins now at differing times and on both sides of the car. I have been running stock arms, which amazingly enough, have no bow to them. I am running the ST Racing Concepts 3-2 rear a-arm mount. I just installed a set of RPM arms and will be interested to see if it happens again.
Thanks!
Thanks!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm sure that can happen if you hit something hard enough like me. ![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
one of my arms is binding a little so I'm thinking i may have a similar problem.
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
one of my arms is binding a little so I'm thinking i may have a similar problem.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
At PRCR, I went up a jump to a tabletop, and instead of getting the tabletop, I got the Fusebox on the wall. God that sounded so bad and boy was I sure embarassed. It echoed so hardcore in that dungeon of a Track... I nearly went home in shame.
![Embarrassment](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/redface.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ran my SC 4x4 for the first time this Friday and it handled pretty well I need to shorten the shocks some to keep the truck flatter. I did notice that the car did not seem to have the acceleration (quickness) as the Losi. I ran the SC10 with the same motor and gear ration as the Losi and the Losi would clear a triple with only 1 foot or room before the ramp but the Asc. needed 4 to 6 feet. I have pinned the slipper and I am running garodisks. The motor seems 40 deg cooler than the same motor and gear ratio in the Losi. I am running a 1410 with a 20/93 it is fast but does not clear the jump as easy as the losi. I checked the slipper after pulling it off the track and it was barely warm so I don't think slippage is the reason for the lack of punch.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Any ideas or suggestions?
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ran my SC 4x4 for the first time this Friday and it handled pretty well I need to shorten the shocks some to keep the truck flatter. I did notice that the car did not seem to have the acceleration (quickness) as the Losi. I ran the SC10 with the same motor and gear ration as the Losi and the Losi would clear a triple with only 1 foot or room before the ramp but the Asc. needed 4 to 6 feet. I have pinned the slipper and I am running garodisks. The motor seems 40 deg cooler than the same motor and gear ratio in the Losi. I am running a 1410 with a 20/93 it is fast but does not clear the jump as easy as the losi. I checked the slipper after pulling it off the track and it was barely warm so I don't think slippage is the reason for the lack of punch.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Any ideas or suggestions?
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ASAP, you will sell a lot of them. I've had mine done for about two months, it really helped make the truck easier to drive.
![](http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w188/CraigMBA/RCSTUFF/2011-10-07_19-55-27_228.jpg)
A couple of weeks ago during the "Great Pin Debate" I posted that the AE setup sheets from the Reedy race were either 1) wrong or 2) incomplete. Look real close at the pictures, that billet aluminum ackerman bar is clearly visable.
Hartson's (Rick Howart built) 4th in the A at the ROAR nats truck had the stock one on backwards, so this has been out there for a while, and makes a big difference.
![](http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w188/CraigMBA/RCSTUFF/2011-10-07_19-55-27_228.jpg)
A couple of weeks ago during the "Great Pin Debate" I posted that the AE setup sheets from the Reedy race were either 1) wrong or 2) incomplete. Look real close at the pictures, that billet aluminum ackerman bar is clearly visable.
Hartson's (Rick Howart built) 4th in the A at the ROAR nats truck had the stock one on backwards, so this has been out there for a while, and makes a big difference.
what are you doing to keep the tie rods from hitting the stearing linkage. i tryed to flip over the stock ackerman arm and it locked up the stearing, the tie rod end hit. and i drimeled it out but i cant cut it anymore
Tech Addict
iTrader: (59)
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the tips guys, I'm goin to practice today, and try a few things:
Go back to the 3-2 block
Go back to the 20 tooth pulley
Got to 2 degree camber in the rear
I may try my holeshots today to, see how that helps
Thanks again!
Josh
Go back to the 3-2 block
Go back to the 20 tooth pulley
Got to 2 degree camber in the rear
I may try my holeshots today to, see how that helps
Thanks again!
Josh
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Quick questin for u guys...
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
well my truck has all of the things suggested to you and mine still does the same thing