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Old 11-12-2011, 08:37 PM
  #10771  
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Originally Posted by hELllNino
makes sense to me... two vehicles that weigh the exact same, but mass is centralized in one and not in the other, will handle completely different. that is why people are using saddle packs, and getting results.

also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare.

it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace?
We have a winner.. You saved $53 bux... Nice....
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hELllNino
also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed.
Would you believe that I went to two LHS and neither of them had anything like that? I heart the internet.

BTW, nice job!
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:45 PM
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Uh... Why are we using the Crook's price of 30 dollars? You could buy Aircraft Grade Carbon and Aluminum Rod ends and not spend 30 bucks.

Mine's 15, with a 5 dollar envelope to send it. So you're still cheaper but I am using a RC 35% Plane Carbon Rodand it is 'not' super cheap. You're idea is inventive and works great i'm sure, props.

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 11-12-2011 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:02 PM
  #10774  
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I would also suggest you go to 30k oil in the front...I've been running that or a while with 7k oil in the rear...truck has been great. You might want to try a different tire for your track? Maybe some gridirons instead of enduros? The right tire makes a WORLD of difference.


Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's
Quick questin for u guys...

My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?

My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around

Any tips?
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:17 PM
  #10775  
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Originally Posted by nmdesertracer
Cant we all just get along!
Hey man, where were you at today, there was only 4 of us, me, a rango, and 2 louses, lol. Showed 'em how its done lol.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:22 PM
  #10776  
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Default Bent inner hinge pins

Okay, so I think I may have a new one. I have seen that many are experiencing bowed arms but has anyone experienced bent hinge pins? My rear hing pins have bent at what looks like the point where they come out of the forward mount. I have had this happen to two pins now at differing times and on both sides of the car. I have been running stock arms, which amazingly enough, have no bow to them. I am running the ST Racing Concepts 3-2 rear a-arm mount. I just installed a set of RPM arms and will be interested to see if it happens again.

Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:43 PM
  #10777  
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I'm sure that can happen if you hit something hard enough like me.

one of my arms is binding a little so I'm thinking i may have a similar problem.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I'm sure that can happen if you hit something hard enough like me.

one of my arms is binding a little so I'm thinking i may have a similar problem.
I've bent all 4 of my dogbones learning how to drive this truck.

At PRCR, I went up a jump to a tabletop, and instead of getting the tabletop, I got the Fusebox on the wall. God that sounded so bad and boy was I sure embarassed. It echoed so hardcore in that dungeon of a Track... I nearly went home in shame.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:14 AM
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I ran my SC 4x4 for the first time this Friday and it handled pretty well I need to shorten the shocks some to keep the truck flatter. I did notice that the car did not seem to have the acceleration (quickness) as the Losi. I ran the SC10 with the same motor and gear ration as the Losi and the Losi would clear a triple with only 1 foot or room before the ramp but the Asc. needed 4 to 6 feet. I have pinned the slipper and I am running garodisks. The motor seems 40 deg cooler than the same motor and gear ratio in the Losi. I am running a 1410 with a 20/93 it is fast but does not clear the jump as easy as the losi. I checked the slipper after pulling it off the track and it was barely warm so I don't think slippage is the reason for the lack of punch.

Any ideas or suggestions?
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:28 AM
  #10780  
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Originally Posted by plumslow
I ran my SC 4x4 for the first time this Friday and it handled pretty well I need to shorten the shocks some to keep the truck flatter. I did notice that the car did not seem to have the acceleration (quickness) as the Losi. I ran the SC10 with the same motor and gear ration as the Losi and the Losi would clear a triple with only 1 foot or room before the ramp but the Asc. needed 4 to 6 feet. I have pinned the slipper and I am running garodisks. The motor seems 40 deg cooler than the same motor and gear ratio in the Losi. I am running a 1410 with a 20/93 it is fast but does not clear the jump as easy as the losi. I checked the slipper after pulling it off the track and it was barely warm so I don't think slippage is the reason for the lack of punch.

Any ideas or suggestions?
Assuming your using the right tires, i would say gear up, and or add more punch to the esc. I would try a 22 or 23 tooth pinion
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:31 AM
  #10781  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
ASAP, you will sell a lot of them. I've had mine done for about two months, it really helped make the truck easier to drive.



A couple of weeks ago during the "Great Pin Debate" I posted that the AE setup sheets from the Reedy race were either 1) wrong or 2) incomplete. Look real close at the pictures, that billet aluminum ackerman bar is clearly visable.

Hartson's (Rick Howart built) 4th in the A at the ROAR nats truck had the stock one on backwards, so this has been out there for a while, and makes a big difference.


what are you doing to keep the tie rods from hitting the stearing linkage. i tryed to flip over the stock ackerman arm and it locked up the stearing, the tie rod end hit. and i drimeled it out but i cant cut it anymore
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:38 AM
  #10782  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
Hey man, where were you at today, there was only 4 of us, me, a rango, and 2 louses, lol. Showed 'em how its done lol.
Sweet kicking A and taking names! Had to work on the dirtbikes.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:13 AM
  #10783  
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Thanks for the tips guys, I'm goin to practice today, and try a few things:

Go back to the 3-2 block
Go back to the 20 tooth pulley
Got to 2 degree camber in the rear

I may try my holeshots today to, see how that helps

Thanks again!

Josh
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:19 AM
  #10784  
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Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's
Quick questin for u guys...

My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?

My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around

Any tips?
Man you are having the exact same problem as me yesterday. When I would let off the throttle on the straight coming in the turn my truck would spin out as well. I have 10-3 in the diffs. Mine isnt overdriven. My truck yesterday was undriveable. It was loose, didnt jump right, it was either nose up or nose down, and threw the rough it was a pile. The shocks on this truck just plain out feel terrible. To get the correct ride height the preload isnt enough causing the springs to rub the shock bodies and they just dont feel right. The track I raced on was a little on the rough side, its a 1/8 track really. I think the truck is made for smooth blue groove tracks. I think it will fly on them. But for the average guy not being able to race on super smooth blue groove tracks the truck needs some serious help. I went home yesterday frustrated for sure.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:20 AM
  #10785  
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Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's
Thanks for the tips guys, I'm goin to practice today, and try a few things:

Go back to the 3-2 block
Go back to the 20 tooth pulley
Got to 2 degree camber in the rear

I may try my holeshots today to, see how that helps

Thanks again!

Josh
well my truck has all of the things suggested to you and mine still does the same thing
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