SC10 4x4 Thread
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was able to get through mine w/ a hand drill and a vise. I must have got and relatively soft one. I did drill a pilot hole. The aluminun part is soft, if it won't go through the shaft pretty easily, then stop and take it somewhere.
It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, if you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted.
It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, if you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
![Exclamation](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon4.gif)
Vegatron recommended I try 15/62...that is where I am now and it's perfect. After practicing for 20 minutes my temps were 119-motor 98-esc and 88-battery. The slipper (stock, un-pinned) was hotter than the motor!
Next investment is an MTK Clutch Basket! Everyone that I know who runs them LOVES them and I'm already SOLD...just gotta set the money aside!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
![Confused](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/confused.gif)
2650 castle with mamba monster, i'm running sattle packs..... two orion 5000 90c :-) i made my own mounting plates for the receiver box which is now above the front diff and the esc is above the rear diff ( temp mounting plate getting thicker abs plastic)... everything fits perfectly.. i had to do some creative dremeling but other than that it was easy(dremeling did not seem to weaking the rear bulk head but if it did i do have extra :-) ). i have a new set of slipper pads i will be picking up on monday made out of a material ceramic similar to brake pads but closer to zr1 pads. i started out with a SCT system and became quickly tired of it. i then went to a MMP and a tekin sc4x 4.5 , but like i always say GO BIG OR GO HOME. im not a racer but i do like pushing the limits
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
![Questions??](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon15.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![EEK!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/eek.gif)
![Confused](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/confused.gif)
2650 castle with mamba monster, i'm running sattle packs..... two orion 5000 90c :-) i made my own mounting plates for the receiver box which is now above the front diff and the esc is above the rear diff... everything fits perfectly.. i had to do some creative dremeling but other than that it was easy. i have a new set of slipper pads i will be picking up on monday made out of a material ceramic similar to brake pads but closer to zr1 pads. i started out with a SCT system and became quickly tired of it. i then went to a MMP and a tekin sc4x 4.5 , but like i always say GO BIG OR GO HOME. im not a racer but i do like pushing the limits
This truck is VERY sturdy for the most part though. So I'd imagine that it makes a good basher as well as a racer.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Those aren't 'saddle packs' (yes it's a D not a T...sorry...the English Major in me...no offense) they are 'stick packs' and it LOOKS like you are running them in parallel so it's 2S instead of 4S. Get a series connector and run it in 4S if so and it'll be CRAZY FAST! Looks fun...but I'm not much of a basher.
This truck is VERY sturdy for the most part though. So I'd imagine that it makes a good basher as well as a racer.
This truck is VERY sturdy for the most part though. So I'd imagine that it makes a good basher as well as a racer.
![Smiling](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/kawaii.gif)
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cool! Let's see what this Sattle pack deal is all about.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
BTW went head to head with my buddies erevo 3.5 brushless and not only did i smoke him being quicker and faster BUT i did it all under control, no flipping... now i know they are 2200kv and im 2650 but i thought it would have been closer... i just need to dial in the springs, i have full sets of fronts and rears . i did go with the bigger sway bars for the added weight. last thing i beed to buy are the aluminum wheel hexs , steels diff gears (maybe) , and a chassis bar...
Tech Apprentice
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dan, you are going to get a lot of opinions on this but that is the way it goes. For what it is worth I am running a 23/93 48pitch (slightly taller ratio than the 15/62 32pitch that others mention) and a MMP with the 1410 and have had zero issues. The motor comes off the track in the high 130's after 5 minute heats and mains. I like the increased range of ratios I can get out of the 48pitch gears though it really is not as big a deal with the motors these days. Regardless of the pitch, make sure you pay attention to your gear mesh. It is possible to get it wrong even if you have been doing it for decades.
Last edited by AzFittin; 11-03-2011 at 11:51 PM. Reason: Edit on motor temp, helps to get it right
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ok so now i finaly go my sc10 4x4 together last night and put in the motor ect. now for today im going to pain the body and then im finish ![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
i hope to get out to the track this weekend to give it a test
u guys can see it here : http://www.rcgalleri.dk/gal_visbil.aspx?ID=37984
i dont know howe to upload foto on here
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
i hope to get out to the track this weekend to give it a test
u guys can see it here : http://www.rcgalleri.dk/gal_visbil.aspx?ID=37984
i dont know howe to upload foto on here
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Last edited by the_freak; 11-04-2011 at 03:43 AM.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
JConcepts posted on their thread that the White Hazard is in the works for later this year. I wish I would have read that before ordering 4 sets of black. I also prefer the white wheels. Black is too black-on-black-on-black.
But I have to say I love the wider stance of the Hazards of both my SC10s.
But I have to say I love the wider stance of the Hazards of both my SC10s.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Guys i just got my brace on the truck. I must say it is a very much needed upgrade part. With out it the truck has so much flex and with it is way better and quieter and more consistent. the belt only skips on really hard braking by one click . When running with the brace on i will def have to make some changes in the setup.
With MTK clutch basket and the pinned mod and the brace will have to go from 7k front to 3k and the rear can stay at 5k
the truck develops a hard push so now have to give it more steering .
i am loving this truck more and more because now it is getting more like a touring car.
i am not sold on the saddle pack setup thou some guys are running that around here and i don't see any better or faster trucks because of it . just my observation.
With MTK clutch basket and the pinned mod and the brace will have to go from 7k front to 3k and the rear can stay at 5k
the truck develops a hard push so now have to give it more steering .
i am loving this truck more and more because now it is getting more like a touring car.
i am not sold on the saddle pack setup thou some guys are running that around here and i don't see any better or faster trucks because of it . just my observation.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...011/index.html