5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-28-2011, 08:00 PM
#9706
for those guys asking about the diffs.. i know someone said it was 6 screws.. that is quite simply not the case..
here is what i did.. made it very simple to access the diffs..
1. Take of the bumper.. (4) screws..
2. under the bumper.. there is 2 screws that screw into the case..
3. take off the 5.5mm nuts that hold the shocks to the tower (makes moving tower easier)
4. there are (6) screws to take off, (4) front facing, and (2) vertical, this will allow the shock tower to fall out of place. i even popped off the captured ends, so the drive shafts are out of the way (helped with reinstalling diff) use the 5.5 nut driver, to press the ballends back on.
5. take off the clicker cover, and remove the clicker/slipper assy
6. (3) long diff screws that hold the diff together.. be sure to not lose the washers that are used here.
with the tower folded foward, the diff should come straight up. allready be apart. then of course reverse the build.
Sofar this has been the easiest thing to do without having to tear the whole front end apart. didnt take very long, less than 15mins i believe. also.. i have a small electric drill to pull the screws.. may take longer if you dont have this. also.. i do have swaybars installed.. and they do not need to be removed for this.. the tower simply folds, and rotates on the swaybar..
here is what i did.. made it very simple to access the diffs..
1. Take of the bumper.. (4) screws..
2. under the bumper.. there is 2 screws that screw into the case..
3. take off the 5.5mm nuts that hold the shocks to the tower (makes moving tower easier)
4. there are (6) screws to take off, (4) front facing, and (2) vertical, this will allow the shock tower to fall out of place. i even popped off the captured ends, so the drive shafts are out of the way (helped with reinstalling diff) use the 5.5 nut driver, to press the ballends back on.
5. take off the clicker cover, and remove the clicker/slipper assy
6. (3) long diff screws that hold the diff together.. be sure to not lose the washers that are used here.
with the tower folded foward, the diff should come straight up. allready be apart. then of course reverse the build.
Sofar this has been the easiest thing to do without having to tear the whole front end apart. didnt take very long, less than 15mins i believe. also.. i have a small electric drill to pull the screws.. may take longer if you dont have this. also.. i do have swaybars installed.. and they do not need to be removed for this.. the tower simply folds, and rotates on the swaybar..
6 screws removed the entire rear end, A-arms, CVA's and tower. Then it's a simple removal of the diff. I thought I worded all of it well enough.
10-28-2011, 08:08 PM
#9707
Got the basket today. Super fast shipping and the finish looks really good. Fit was perfect as well. Props to MTK for a fantastic part. It's dark now so I can't truly test it but I will run it in my driveway real quick. I should be able to feel a difference right away. Will report back tomorrow and I am "pinned".
Also I have seen some people go with a lighter diff fluid in the front, what affect does this have o the truck. I am running 30k in the front and 5k in the rear.
Terry
Also I have seen some people go with a lighter diff fluid in the front, what affect does this have o the truck. I am running 30k in the front and 5k in the rear.
Terry
10-28-2011, 08:58 PM
#9708
10-28-2011, 09:05 PM
#9709
Got the basket today. Super fast shipping and the finish looks really good. Fit was perfect as well. Props to MTK for a fantastic part. It's dark now so I can't truly test it but I will run it in my driveway real quick. I should be able to feel a difference right away. Will report back tomorrow and I am "pinned".
Also I have seen some people go with a lighter diff fluid in the front, what affect does this have o the truck. I am running 30k in the front and 5k in the rear.
Terry
Also I have seen some people go with a lighter diff fluid in the front, what affect does this have o the truck. I am running 30k in the front and 5k in the rear.
Terry
10-28-2011, 09:12 PM
#9710
Tech Elite
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10-28-2011, 09:20 PM
#9711
Having 50/50 front-rear and left-right isn't very useful if you have a bunch of wedge in the chassis to get there.
I would suggest you try putting the speed control opposite of the motor, and the battery in the middle.
10-29-2011, 12:40 AM
#9712
I ran for the first time in a few months tonight at the Hemet raceway. It's a very low key outdoor track & everyone is there for fun & competition. I ended up qualifying 3rd & finished 2nd. Most racers there had losi trucks...now that I think about it I think I was the lone AE truck! I think the pin mod would have been beneficial but not a "must" for this track. I didn't have any trouble clearing jumps & my truck was as fast as everyone else. What I did need is a outdoor track set up! I mostly run indoor, so when it came to the main I had gone back to blue springs in the rear & all 4 shocks in the middle hole on the towers. I had a good time, it was nice to get out & race & take a break from changing poopoo diapers! 
10-29-2011, 12:46 AM
#9713
Wow! 
This thread sure moves a long in a hurry... tough to keep up when projects and work get you swamped! 
Was hoping for some advise and tips... I scored a Tekin Pro4 4600 a few weeks back along with the MTK clutch Basket and the 3 Garodisk set from Mantisworx.
I finally found the time to install everything and for those with the same or a similar set-up, I was wondering what pinion to use with the 32 pitch Spur? Was leaning toward a 13T... I usually run on an mid to large outdoor track which does accommodate 1/8th Scale racing... big jumps and all. Its loose dirt and quite dusty when dry. Except for the tires, I also emulated what I could from the Ryans set-up posted on AE's website for the Reedy Truck Race of Champions.
Lastly, when installing the 3 Garodiscs with the Clutch Basket for the first time, should the nut be flush on the idler gear shaft or tightened further? I know some recommend "pinning", but I'm not ready for that yet and want to see how this goes before maybe trying that and experiencing the difference.
Any thoughts and recommendations would definitely be very much appreciated! Thanks!
This thread sure moves a long in a hurry... tough to keep up when projects and work get you swamped! Was hoping for some advise and tips... I scored a Tekin Pro4 4600 a few weeks back along with the MTK clutch Basket and the 3 Garodisk set from Mantisworx.
I finally found the time to install everything and for those with the same or a similar set-up, I was wondering what pinion to use with the 32 pitch Spur? Was leaning toward a 13T... I usually run on an mid to large outdoor track which does accommodate 1/8th Scale racing... big jumps and all. Its loose dirt and quite dusty when dry. Except for the tires, I also emulated what I could from the Ryans set-up posted on AE's website for the Reedy Truck Race of Champions.
Lastly, when installing the 3 Garodiscs with the Clutch Basket for the first time, should the nut be flush on the idler gear shaft or tightened further? I know some recommend "pinning", but I'm not ready for that yet and want to see how this goes before maybe trying that and experiencing the difference.
Any thoughts and recommendations would definitely be very much appreciated! Thanks!
10-29-2011, 06:41 AM
#9714
Wow! This thread sure moves a long in a hurry... tough to keep up when projects and work get you swamped!
Was hoping for some advise and tips... I scored a Tekin Pro4 4600 a few weeks back along with the MTK clutch Basket and the 3 Garodisk set from Mantisworx.
I finally found the time to install everything and for those with the same or a similar set-up, I was wondering what pinion to use with the 32 pitch Spur? Was leaning toward a 13T... I usually run on an mid to large outdoor track which does accommodate 1/8th Scale racing... big jumps and all. Its loose dirt and quite dusty when dry. Except for the tires, I also emulated what I could from the Ryans set-up posted on AE's website for the Reedy Truck Race of Champions.
Lastly, when installing the 3 Garodiscs with the Clutch Basket for the first time, should the nut be flush on the idler gear shaft or tightened further? I know some recommend "pinning", but I'm not ready for that yet and want to see how this goes before maybe trying that and experiencing the difference.
Any thoughts and recommendations would definitely be very much appreciated! Thanks!
This thread sure moves a long in a hurry... tough to keep up when projects and work get you swamped! Was hoping for some advise and tips... I scored a Tekin Pro4 4600 a few weeks back along with the MTK clutch Basket and the 3 Garodisk set from Mantisworx.
I finally found the time to install everything and for those with the same or a similar set-up, I was wondering what pinion to use with the 32 pitch Spur? Was leaning toward a 13T... I usually run on an mid to large outdoor track which does accommodate 1/8th Scale racing... big jumps and all. Its loose dirt and quite dusty when dry. Except for the tires, I also emulated what I could from the Ryans set-up posted on AE's website for the Reedy Truck Race of Champions.
Lastly, when installing the 3 Garodiscs with the Clutch Basket for the first time, should the nut be flush on the idler gear shaft or tightened further? I know some recommend "pinning", but I'm not ready for that yet and want to see how this goes before maybe trying that and experiencing the difference.
Any thoughts and recommendations would definitely be very much appreciated! Thanks!
10-29-2011, 07:05 AM
#9715
Tech Adept
I wood like the web site to MTK so i can order the basket for myself and does he sell the slipper pads too or do i have to go else where?
10-29-2011, 07:18 AM
#9717
Only 5 blades on the fan leaves room for big rocks to get caught inside....most ESC fans have 8-13 blades....just as much airflow, smaller space for stuff to get caught.
I took some wire mesh from a broken screen door, cut it to the size of my fan, and used the fan screws to hold it on. Haven't had ANY issue with chipped fan blades since, and temps did not change.
If your fan is not dieing because of dirt, but is in fact dieing from hard landings, then try a fan from LRP or Tekin (the RX8 fan lasts wonderfully but the plug is a little odd, you might have to rewire it yourself)
I took some wire mesh from a broken screen door, cut it to the size of my fan, and used the fan screws to hold it on. Haven't had ANY issue with chipped fan blades since, and temps did not change.
If your fan is not dieing because of dirt, but is in fact dieing from hard landings, then try a fan from LRP or Tekin (the RX8 fan lasts wonderfully but the plug is a little odd, you might have to rewire it yourself)
10-29-2011, 07:22 AM
#9718
Anyone see this yet?
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ated-sc10-4x4/
I guess someone listened to everyone about getting pushed around by the heavy Losi lol.
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ated-sc10-4x4/
I guess someone listened to everyone about getting pushed around by the heavy Losi lol.
10-29-2011, 07:24 AM
#9719
Here's the link, And no, I don't sell the clutchpads, since most people have extra pads,,, and there are different ways of setting up the clutch.
Thanks!!
Last edited by Mac The Knife; 10-29-2011 at 07:35 AM. Reason: added picture
10-29-2011, 07:25 AM
#9720
this
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...ddf7bb8903e8f7
and this
http://gearrings.weebly.com/rc-racing-stuff.html
You will have all the clutch tuning you could ever need, and will never have to buy another clutch part.
I just bought a ton of hop ups, tires&hazard rim, and spring, and noticed when I installed the yellow springs, they no longer rub the shock body
I was so peaved when I got the ft shcok bodys, only to have the springs rub on them, well thats a thing of the past
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...ddf7bb8903e8f7
and this
http://gearrings.weebly.com/rc-racing-stuff.html
You will have all the clutch tuning you could ever need, and will never have to buy another clutch part.
I just bought a ton of hop ups, tires&hazard rim, and spring, and noticed when I installed the yellow springs, they no longer rub the shock body
I was so peaved when I got the ft shcok bodys, only to have the springs rub on them, well thats a thing of the past
