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Old 10-27-2011, 07:20 AM
  #9601  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Posted this a couple pages back, but did anyone notice a diffrence in the hot racing diffs, are they holding up better. Are they leaking oil like the stock ones?

It sucks to fill your diff up with oil and after a couple runs most of the oil leaked out.

just a question how did you prep your diffs? i have never had mine leak ....on the hot racing stuff i had seen pages back where someone had ordered some of there stuff and said it was junk .....there stuff was good for mini cars but i dont know if i would wanna run it on these cars ....just my opinion though
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SourDieselX
son of a.....

I spent a good hour looking for them through AE and TH and a few others, there is a part number but it links back to the shafts with the o-rings!

Thanks Coyote!!!
yea they are actually the sc10 2wd o-rings but are the same parts.
AE doesn't list a 4x4 part # for just o-rings.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:28 AM
  #9603  
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When it comes to diffs I take my time on them. Lightly sand the diff cup to flatten the top better. Use AE green slime on the o-rings and some good grease in the grease hole on the out drive. I do this on all my diffs and shocks and they never leak. I only have about 30 packs through the truck so maybe in time I will experience what everyone else is.

Terry
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:31 AM
  #9604  
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Originally Posted by zixxer
just a question how did you prep your diffs? i have never had mine leak ....on the hot racing stuff i had seen pages back where someone had ordered some of there stuff and said it was junk .....there stuff was good for mini cars but i dont know if i would wanna run it on these cars ....just my opinion though
O ok thanks for responce. Well at first the diffs where not leaking when I rebuilt them from the factory. Untill I learned that I had to limit up travel, by then it was to late and I already had wobbly outdrives, which lets oil slowly leak out. Since I have limited up travel know, might just try the stock diffs again.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Divey
When it comes to diffs I take my time on them. Lightly sand the diff cup to flatten the top better. Use AE green slime on the o-rings and some good grease in the grease hole on the out drive. I do this on all my diffs and shocks and they never leak. I only have about 30 packs through the truck so maybe in time I will experience what everyone else is.

Terry
+1000
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:54 AM
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What's this talk about limiting up travel. Is this because it hits on the sway bar link. I noticed on my rear it is starting to leave a rub mark. How many mm's are you limiting the front/rear.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Divey
What's this talk about limiting up travel. Is this because it hits on the sway bar link. I noticed on my rear it is starting to leave a rub mark. How many mm's are you limiting the front/rear.
We limit up travel only because at full compression... the axle shafts HIT or CATCH on the diff. outdrives. About 1 or 2 washers were added on mine. I know that one of the ends (front or rear) needed more than the other.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:38 AM
  #9608  
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Originally Posted by Divey
What's this talk about limiting up travel. Is this because it hits on the sway bar link. I noticed on my rear it is starting to leave a rub mark. How many mm's are you limiting the front/rear.
Also in the kit there is gray little washers that snap on to the shaft to limit up travel.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:11 AM
  #9609  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Also in the kit there is gray little washers that snap on to the shaft to limit up travel.
Those suck. They are hard to install, and pop off when you are installing spring buckets. If you use the boots, you can't tell.

They have some rubber ones that are much better (same as the isolation spacers that come on the radio tray) but you have to spend some obscene amount of money to acquire them after you toss the parts you don't need. The shock shafts are just large enough that none of my old skool RC10 shock spacers won't fit.

My rear outdrives have the wobblys. My fronts are tight as a drum. The solution is a higher duromoter o-ring.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:19 AM
  #9610  
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Originally Posted by Divey
When it comes to diffs I take my time on them. Lightly sand the diff cup to flatten the top better. Use AE green slime on the o-rings and some good grease in the grease hole on the out drive. I do this on all my diffs and shocks and they never leak. I only have about 30 packs through the truck so maybe in time I will experience what everyone else is.

Terry

I have around 20 packs on mines and they look as if a bulldozer stampede went over them over and over again.

When I have the time I'll do steel outdrive bushings (and if they turn out good, might aswell mount&sell them, who knows)

I can't just keep replacing diffs. I run the truck on multiple raceways (from very very bumpy, to smooth as asphalt, from loose as snow to hardpacked as cement), so they take quite a lot of beating until I've tuned down the truck.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:26 AM
  #9611  
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
Lets all agree to dissagree and move on with the slipper discussion. If you feel you don't need to upgrade or change your slipper great, it is working for you. Others have found the need to "Tune" their slipper for different condition, driving styles and track surfaces/sizes.
I've had to tune my slipper.

Pinned topshaft and fiberglass outer disc.

Now it has the adequate slippage, does not fade, has cornering speed, and best of all, HAS ON-POWER FRONT GRIP!!
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by fastrc64
i just got back my lightweight top shaft that i sent to the man MTK he did the drilling for me , and it works great !!! last night i ran 4 packs thru the truck and no problems ,i also have the basket as well .this is my idea of how a slipper unit should work . it should not pull wheelies . it should slip some on take off . and exit on corners , and i cut away the gear cover , i use the HD pads , after the pin mod and assembly my slipper nut at the correct adjustment is only about half way through the nut , and it rocks . all you guys that are going through idler gears i am sure that you have your adjustments wrong on the slipper unit.

this is what is in the truck RX8 pro 4 4000 540 62/13
spektum radio
XP digital servo
Orion 90c 6500
after running the truck with the pinned mod motor temp was 122 speed control temp 100 slipper 98 transmission 74 so if you look at the numbers you will notice that the temp starts high and comes down as the power is distributed to the wheels . and that was on a fully charged battery and driving it till it lipo cut off on me
in the pictures you can see my slipper nut is only about half way on the shaft , also you can see my outerwears dirt shroud on my truck it allows maximum air flow . i don't even use fans on my ESC or Motor
here is the ultimate protection from dirt mud and water you can get your for sc10 4x4 about $35 @ outerwears inc i love mine does a great job and looks really great as well .
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-013.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-014.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-015.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-024.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-025.jpg  

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Old 10-27-2011, 09:41 AM
  #9613  
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Originally Posted by fastrc64
in the pictures you can see my slipper nut is only about half way on the shaft , also you can see my outerwears dirt shroud on my truck it allows maximum air flow . i don't even use fans on my ESC or Motor
here is the ultimate protection from dirt mud and water you can get your for sc10 4x4 about $35 @ outerwears inc i love mine does a great job and looks really great as well .
Outerwears, Inc
Are You Driving Naked?
20-2695-___
Using Terra-Flo standards Outerwears is announcing the availability of 20-2695-_ chassis shroud for the Team Associated SC10 4X4. Outerwears has designed a way for you to protect your SC10 4X4 from dirt, debris, and water while allowing amazing air flow that Outerwears is known for, and allowing for different aftermarket electronic set ups. We believe Team Associated owners like Frank Honson, and Tony Phalen want to experience what off-road really means, if Outerwears is right, then the new Team Associated SC10 4X4 Shroud is a must have. Now stand out in the crowd and be protected. Also, available in Black, Blue, Red, Yellow, Orange, Purple, and Lime Green. Ask your local dealer for your new Team Associated SC10 4X4 Shroud today! Also, Visit www.outerwears.com, Outerwears, Inc. Facebook, or @Outerwears1 on Twitter to see the complete Outerwears product line and find out the advantages of staying protected.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-007.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-sc10-4x4-008.jpg  
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:41 AM
  #9614  
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Originally Posted by fastrc64
in the pictures you can see my slipper nut is only about half way on the shaft , also you can see my outerwears dirt shroud on my truck it allows maximum air flow . i don't even use fans on my ESC or Motor
here is the ultimate protection from dirt mud and water you can get your for sc10 4x4 about $35 @ outerwears inc i love mine does a great job and looks really great as well .
damm sweet ride im getting the ower tray for my truck i hope it will work for keeping dirt out and at the same time not make my esc to hot
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:47 AM
  #9615  
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Originally Posted by Divey
What's this talk about limiting up travel. Is this because it hits on the sway bar link. I noticed on my rear it is starting to leave a rub mark. How many mm's are you limiting the front/rear.
I had to rotate the sway bar ends to keep from rubbing the cvd, but once you get them at the right angle, no more rubbing
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