SC10 4x4 Thread
#9466
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
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here is a video I took with my phone of Brian Kinwald at the short course showdown here in Dallas.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djc-nORG_JU
You should notice the way it drives around that inside corner after he lands. that's the pinned shaft at work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djc-nORG_JU
You should notice the way it drives around that inside corner after he lands. that's the pinned shaft at work.
#9467
Tech Master
iTrader: (119)
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Update on the pin mod:
Well the rain cleared up and left my track perfect to run. The power is now where I like it. On asphalt I can lift the front end when I punch it. So after a couple laps I started to feel decrease power again and brought it in. Either the slipper nut backed out (which I doubt) or I didn't have the slipper plate all the way back after reinstalling it. So I tighten it down again and all the power was back. Finished a couple packs and on the last pack the power was gone again. Checked the slipper nut and it was tight where I left it. Now I'm starting to think maybe the pads are no good anymore. How can I tell if they are gone. They are real slick on both sides across the whole pad. I pulled out the stock pads and they have a gritty feeling to them. I have installed those but it got dark and I didn't get to try it. What else can I be doing wrong. I am totally sold on the mod but very frustrating. Anyone have any other ideas. I posted this on a local forum as well and most replied back with there stock pads and no mods/washers to be working fine. I am lost now. Anyone?
Terry
Well the rain cleared up and left my track perfect to run. The power is now where I like it. On asphalt I can lift the front end when I punch it. So after a couple laps I started to feel decrease power again and brought it in. Either the slipper nut backed out (which I doubt) or I didn't have the slipper plate all the way back after reinstalling it. So I tighten it down again and all the power was back. Finished a couple packs and on the last pack the power was gone again. Checked the slipper nut and it was tight where I left it. Now I'm starting to think maybe the pads are no good anymore. How can I tell if they are gone. They are real slick on both sides across the whole pad. I pulled out the stock pads and they have a gritty feeling to them. I have installed those but it got dark and I didn't get to try it. What else can I be doing wrong. I am totally sold on the mod but very frustrating. Anyone have any other ideas. I posted this on a local forum as well and most replied back with there stock pads and no mods/washers to be working fine. I am lost now. Anyone?
Terry
#9468
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here is a video I took with my phone of Brian Kinwald at the short course showdown here in Dallas.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djc-nORG_JU
You should notice the way it drives around that inside corner after he lands. that's the pinned shaft at work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djc-nORG_JU
You should notice the way it drives around that inside corner after he lands. that's the pinned shaft at work.
#9469
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
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Now I'm starting to think maybe the pads are no good anymore. How can I tell if they are gone. They are real slick on both sides across the whole pad. I pulled out the stock pads and they have a gritty feeling to them. I have installed those but it got dark and I didn't get to try it. What else can I be doing wrong. I am totally sold on the mod but very frustrating. Anyone have any other ideas. I posted this on a local forum as well and most replied back with there stock pads and no mods/washers to be working fine. I am lost now. Anyone?
Terry
Terry
Buy a basket and save yourself the headaches !!!!
Anyone who says there slipper is working fine is clueless. Period.
#9470
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
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You have to at this track as after every apex is some sort of bump that you cannot take with out being squared up. that inside corner is even off camber so traction is virtually gone in that spot. but you can see the front end pull him through.. my truck was very different in that corner! lol but now it does the same.
#9472
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Anyways, you are right, the stock slipper pads and the HT pads alone are not enough.
Divey, do yourself a favor and but the clutchbasket or the garodisc. You wont be disapointed.
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#9473
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This is not a mandatory thing you must purchase. I spaced my rear slipper plate 1mm so the nut could torque down properly.
-standard pads
-standard "Pinned" slipper
I do wheelies on demand if I tighten up my slipper half way. I've torn up 2 idlers even! I run at stock suggested 1mm from flush and I slip just enough to "warm" up the slipper housing. It's not melting hot, and I have insane amounts of go. 1mm spacer in the rear by the thrust bearing does this:
- No, My Truck is not a newer edition with the fixed Topshaft, I'm right here with the same "first gen" Kit.
- Yes, I'm running a 550 and it works fine.
- Yes, I have tried a 3S and it still works great. As if that matters.
- No, there is no belt rubbing. Been running like this 4 months and the belt housing is perfect.
- Yes, the belt is in great shape for a 6month old belt.
Like i've been stating, I can burst past any Losi, OFNA, or Traxxas rig anywhere I go with my 550 castle.
I couldn't disagree more.
#9474
Tech Master
iTrader: (119)
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God dammit, just ordered one. I hope to god this fixes it. I have ran over 30 packs now through this truck and maybe 8 of those were good runs. 35$ freaking bucks for something that should have been correct to begin with is pissing me off. Oh well atleast the worries of thinking if it's going to come loose or not are gone. I for sure thought the pin mod would have fixed it. I will just leave it in since to me it should be like that from the beginning. Thanks for the help fellas.
Terry
Terry
#9475
Tech Master
iTrader: (119)
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The spacer fix long ago Works "just fine". I think the basket is a great idea. I'm just a little tired of people assuming it's the "only" idea.
This is not a mandatory thing you must purchase. I spaced my rear slipper plate 1mm so the nut could torque down properly.
-standard pads
-standard "Pinned" slipper
I do wheelies on demand if I tighten up my slipper half way. I've torn up 2 idlers even! I run at stock suggested 1mm from flush and I slip just enough to "warm" up the slipper housing. It's not melting hot, and I have insane amounts of go. 1mm spacer in the rear by the thrust bearing does this.
This is not a mandatory thing you must purchase. I spaced my rear slipper plate 1mm so the nut could torque down properly.
-standard pads
-standard "Pinned" slipper
I do wheelies on demand if I tighten up my slipper half way. I've torn up 2 idlers even! I run at stock suggested 1mm from flush and I slip just enough to "warm" up the slipper housing. It's not melting hot, and I have insane amounts of go. 1mm spacer in the rear by the thrust bearing does this.
#9476
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
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Have you tried the garodiscs? At Mikes I may need to run my clutchbasket, but here in Houston, where the track are looser, the garodiscs work excellent. I recall Mantis syaing that he had to use the clutchbasket at the schorcourse Showdown.
Anyways, you are right, the stock slipper pads and the HT pads alone are not enough.
Divey, do yourself a favor and but the clutchbasket or the garodisc. You wont be disapointed.![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
Anyways, you are right, the stock slipper pads and the HT pads alone are not enough.
Divey, do yourself a favor and but the clutchbasket or the garodisc. You wont be disapointed.
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
Mantis was at the showdown? i didn't even know. i haven't tried the Garodiscs but that's because i already had the basket and it works great.
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#9479
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
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Sour's truck still has or had something going on with it, but I dont think they have the same issue, we'll get it figured out if you havent already done so Sour. It seems that alot of people have put the pullies on backwards causing belt issues. When Mantis got his truck used, the person who assembled the truck put the pullies on backwards and had the rear cva pins partialy sticking out between the bearing and the axle itself, which caused extreme binding when the wheels were tightened down. No wonder the guy thought the truck didnt drive well![Laughing](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif)
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#9480
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
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Associated sells a FT shock kit...but the ONLY difference is TiNi shock shafts and different color shock bodies. No need to upgrade the shock IMO...just buy the TiNi shafts and maybe some Trackstar O-rings and you'll be golden. If you are really looking for the best possible shock then maybe try polishing the pistons with a dremel, a polish wheel and some red jewelers rouge (you'll find this wherever dremel products are sold).