5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-21-2011, 07:13 AM
#9152
i use 2 stock o-rings and with polish pistons and etc its smoother than just putting trackstar rings in.. and it doesn't leak.
I used red rouge. just don't hold dremel on piston too long it will eat away plastic. I suggest puting dremel in a vice and holding piston on shaft for polishing. you don't want to remove material just polish it up. once you start you'll notice the imperfections as the rouge gets stuck to it.
I used red rouge. just don't hold dremel on piston too long it will eat away plastic. I suggest puting dremel in a vice and holding piston on shaft for polishing. you don't want to remove material just polish it up. once you start you'll notice the imperfections as the rouge gets stuck to it.
i use 2000 grit sandpaper and lighter fluid!! old slot car racing trick. i am also using the red Xring up top with no ring and green slime at the bottom,zero leakage and smooth as silk
10-21-2011, 07:27 AM
#9153
just to add another way to do the piston ....take out the shaft with piston on it chuck it up in a cordless drill take some extrafine scotch brite run the while polishing with the scotch brite .....been doing this for years and has worked good for me 
10-21-2011, 08:27 AM
#9154
Craig,
A couple questions regarding your brace.
The rod ends and their connection to the carbon rod:
Are they just inserted not threaded into the carbon rod?
This provides stiffness under compresion with the rodends bottomed out against the carbon rod but in the event of expansion would telescope?
A couple questions regarding your brace.
The rod ends and their connection to the carbon rod:
Are they just inserted not threaded into the carbon rod?
This provides stiffness under compresion with the rodends bottomed out against the carbon rod but in the event of expansion would telescope?
Craig, I noticed you're running saddle packs, I also know Mantis runs saddles as well, with the straight packs you're able to run that battery bar which pretty much seems to act as a chassis stiffner, how much flex were you getting before the bar? Is there really much of a change in behavior of the truck from saddle packs to a straight pack?
10-21-2011, 08:29 AM
#9155
Im looking at getting an 4wd SC10. Does anyone run the LRP SXX V2 with the LRP short course motor? Will the SXX V2 handle it?
10-21-2011, 08:35 AM
#9157
Or the LRP SXX TC V2 with REEDY 4.0, 4.5 or 5.5 550 size motors
10-21-2011, 08:41 AM
#9158
Whats the difference between the works team capacitor and the stock one the comes with the SXX V-2? Thanks for the info.
10-21-2011, 09:10 AM
#9159
10-21-2011, 09:23 AM
#9160
Thought I would post what I found out last night. I never had a problem with the slipper having too much slip until I raced on clay. My slipper was too loose for the traction and I might have overheated the spring. I had to tighten it down all the way to get it to not slip. I took out the old slipper spring and noticed that it had compressed and lost its adjustment. Before reinstalling the new spring I used a diamond bit on my dremel to rough up the slipper plate surface to give the pads something more to grab on to. I will test it at the track this weekend, but by just turning the slipper hub against the slipper pad, it has a lot more grab now. Here is a pic of the old and new spring.
10-21-2011, 09:34 AM
#9162
Had a chance to run 4 more packs through it and am loving it. After dropping to a 12 tooth pinion and taking the timing on the motor all the way down my temps dropped from 200*F on the esc to 135-140*F and on the motor from 180*F to 150-160*F. I also changed the position on the front tension from 3 to 1. ( I think 1 if that's all the way down) I saw on one of Mayfields setup sheet he ran position 3 in the rear and 1 on the front. That did make my belt a little tighter. So by making all these changes my temps dropped a bunch and for my track it has plenty of power/speed. I think I may be able to go up one more tooth if needed now. My question is would the belt tension have any effect on heat. Maybe it was to loose creating drag, I'm not really sure tho. All in all this truck is great to drive. Oh, also is there anyway to help with bringing the front end down in flight. While I like driving it like a 2wd truck it would be nice to be able to make the adjustment if needed.
Terry
Terry
10-21-2011, 09:41 AM
#9165
Had a chance to run 4 more packs through it and am loving it. After dropping to a 12 tooth pinion and taking the timing on the motor all the way down my temps dropped from 200*F on the esc to 135-140*F and on the motor from 180*F to 150-160*F. I also changed the position on the front tension from 3 to 1. ( I think 1 if that's all the way down) I saw on one of Mayfields setup sheet he ran position 3 in the rear and 1 on the front. That did make my belt a little tighter. So by making all these changes my temps dropped a bunch and for my track it has plenty of power/speed. I think I may be able to go up one more tooth if needed now. My question is would the belt tension have any effect on heat. Maybe it was to loose creating drag, I'm not really sure tho. All in all this truck is great to drive. Oh, also is there anyway to help with bringing the front end down in flight. While I like driving it like a 2wd truck it would be nice to be able to make the adjustment if needed.
Terry
Terry
1 is way too tight if you are running the stock pulley.
Maifield was running the overdrive pulley.
if belt pulley are stock I suggest 4 and 4 on the tension.
